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Ignition Module Testing

Old Feb 7, 2017 | 10:08 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bwoltz
I only brought it up as you didn't mention it.. I would lean towards the cam sensor as others have said.. Heat gun idea is good.. You could also take it for a ride and use freeze mist when it dies..

I will look into this more. I may be confusing my parts so maybe I spoke up too soon. This may sound really ignorant of me but is the ignition module as I called it the same thing as the cam sensor? I removed the plate of the cone and the first component thats there is what I was calling the ignition module. Am I mislabeling it? is that actually the cam sensor?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 11:05 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Crimson King
I will look into this more. I may be confusing my parts so maybe I spoke up too soon. This may sound really ignorant of me but is the ignition module as I called it the same thing as the cam sensor? I removed the plate of the cone and the first component thats there is what I was calling the ignition module. Am I mislabeling it? is that actually the cam sensor?
Technically its the cam sensor.. EVOs typically have a module under the seat / side covers someplace.. Aftermarket does have modules that fit in the nosecone tho..
 
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 11:27 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bwoltz
Technically its the cam sensor.. EVOs typically have a module under the seat / side covers someplace.. Aftermarket does have modules that fit in the nosecone tho..
You're exactly right. I found the actual ignition module under the right side cover. So what I am looking at now is the cam sensor. There are a few resistance checks for it but being as i believe its a heat related issue the only actual check is the heat gun and spray refrigerant/ice pack test (can't believe its the actual recommended troubleshooting technique haha).

Many thanks to everyone that has helped and given me advice. Looks like I can either go through the pain in the *** of replacing the cam sensor now while I already have it all torn apart or I can put it all together and run the damn thing till it overheats and then try the test and then tear it all apart again. Talk about a learning experience. Thanks again everyone.

Any suggestions on where to get the parts for cheap(ish) or a place to get good after markets for the cam sensor? While I have it all the way down, any suggestions on if I should just get aftermarkets for the coil, module, and sensor and upgrade it all in one fell swoop?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 01:26 PM
  #14  
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For intermittent problem:
wire 2 LEDs to primary ignition wires and attach them to handlebar.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Crimson King
You're exactly right. I found the actual ignition module under the right side cover. So what I am looking at now is the cam sensor. There are a few resistance checks for it but being as i believe its a heat related issue the only actual check is the heat gun and spray refrigerant/ice pack test (can't believe its the actual recommended troubleshooting technique haha).

Many thanks to everyone that has helped and given me advice. Looks like I can either go through the pain in the *** of replacing the cam sensor now while I already have it all torn apart or I can put it all together and run the damn thing till it overheats and then try the test and then tear it all apart again. Talk about a learning experience. Thanks again everyone.

Any suggestions on where to get the parts for cheap(ish) or a place to get good after markets for the cam sensor? While I have it all the way down, any suggestions on if I should just get aftermarkets for the coil, module, and sensor and upgrade it all in one fell swoop?
It's your call on swapping it all out.. I lean towards the nose cone modules but Dynatec has an external module that will plug in.. The nose cone systems include the cam sensor and module in one item.. Going after market certainly helps with getting the timing set as they have an LED that goes out at TDC so you can timing the bike statically instead of using a timing light..
 
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 10:03 PM
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Ignition Module Testing-20170208_162004.jpg

Ignition Module Testing-20170208_161836.jpg

Ignition Module Testing-20170208_161907.jpg


Just as an update, first picture shows the setup I made so I could run the heat test. Just my quad gas tank running straight down to the carb. Worked amazingly without having to reinstall tank.

Bike started super easy being as it hasnt been started in 9 months or more. Got the bike nice and hot and then started blasting the cam sensor with heat (picture 2). Could not reenact my symptoms. Started trying real hard and fast revvs rather than a constant throttle and was able to reenact. Used super cold compressed air to cool it til it was cool to the touch and the bike wouldnt fire so i am thinking that cam sensor is fine.

Noticed a crack in the exhaust blowing right out of the rear cylinder and could see the combustion of the engine through the crack (crack in picture 3).

With that crack, could my engine be getting just way too hot? is there a temperature sensor or something that might be causing my issue?

My next step is to try and reenact the symptoms again and then pull my plugs quick and see if maybe my ignition coil is failing at high temps and that the plugs arent firing.

Any other suggestions? This gremlin is straight up evil. Also sorry about the sideways pictures. If you enlarge them they are the right way, ha.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 12:45 AM
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Yeah stock rear headpipes crack there. Good luck on hunting down that gremlin..
 
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