When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I've seen a few videos of guys having issues with the auto tune function on some of the after market tuners with that function.
The one commonality I see with the guys having issues is they have all started the auto function with cold motors or just a mile or two riding.These guys ride for a short time and then load the auto tune and then have problems taking off from the lights and stuff , they nearly all go back to the canned map.
Most of the videos that had issues had a few stop start at traffic lights or getting going and then some open road
I'm wondering if the auto tune when down loaded to the ECU is logging to the bike in an enrichened state as the bike/bikes had not warmed up enough.
Had a FP3 on my 16 FLHXS until a guy crossed jumper cables on me and burnt my ecm and FP3 up, Now have a PV2 and am having problems on takeoff (stumbling a little bit), You have me wondering about auto tune now. I'll get bike hot and then auto tune with a lot of stops and starts and see if that helps.
Depends on the system. Some have a set engine temp that needs to be reached before auto tune data is collected. Some allow this to be user settable.
Some of these won't allow data collection until warmup fuel is out of the equation. Some don't. Some are set up with engine temp and time.
The stock ECM calibration doesn't allow close loop feed back to have input until engine reaches a certain temp and other things are in line. I follow these guide lines. So, I believe some of these problems people have are self induced.
Years ago I was taught to not even collect O2 data for an open loop tune until these tables are out of the way and engine is at least 180. This has worked quit well for me and do the same even if I am collecting wide band data and I am feeding that back into a tuning unit. I'm still following the simple recipe taught to me by Doc.
somehwere in the autotune settings you can set and engine temp or run time adjustment for when the autotune begins,,,,,i usually warn the bike up first,,,then do the datalog,,,then flash. i dont do lots of rides in autotune,,,had data get corrupted and lost.
m
The automatically-adjusted areas of the calibration only affect the closed-loop operation. I believe they are all programmed that way. Therefore, the bike should be warmed up before starting the autotune feature. You would then want to complete a full drive-cycle. This includes normal stop-and-go city riding with some idling, on-ramp acceleration, highway cruise, and wide-open acceleration. I did this for two full cycles with my PV-2 and it really got things where they needed to be.
I asked about this before...I have a FP3 an the advise I got was when you auto tune it it will run rough at times...also they said ride it like you stole it....get it up in the rpm's during the auto tune session.
This post was a just a thought bubble deal , nearly all the videos I saw the guy programmed the auto tune function and then started the bike and rode away , with a few traffic lights or intersections then open road. All these guys had issues and went back to the canned map.
For those running PV, it will not collect any AT data until it is in normal operating temperature. The AT screen will show you when it is warm and collecting data in the cells
I finally got around to Autotuning mine this weekend. Here's what I did, and it worked perfectly:
Bike was already warm after riding home from work
Connected PV, went to AT section, selected the tune currently in my ECM (set up for my exhaust/intake combo)
After enabling AT, it loaded the "enabled" tune to the ECM
Key off 10 seconds
Started the bike, started AT
Rode stop-and-go, normal city riding, normal acceleration
Wide open throttle on-ramp to interstate
Cruised @ 65 MPH, but altered gear selection while maintaining speed to change RPM zones
Exit interstate to highway
Slow progression through gears under medium acceleration to 60 MPH
Downshifted and held at 6000 RPM for short time, then 5K, 4K, etc.
Pulled into gas station and imported the logged data
Loaded revised tune into ECM
Repeated the above steps on the trip home
Bike runs perfectly now. I had made some mental notes where the tune needed adjusting. For example, there was a lean spot on medium accel at 2400 RPM that I could feel. When I compared all the tunes on my PC, sure enough fuel was added right in the areas I would have expected. After two passes, it runs better than ever. On a long ride yesterday I got 47 MPG, which is 2 MPG higher than I have ever gotten before. She's dialed in.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.