Hello, I’m new to this forum and new to auto tuning with the FP3. So V/H says they do not yet have any maps for my FATBOB. I just installed TBR exhaust to my 114 fatbob. I loaded the FP3 and started auto tuning from my stock map. Do I do 3 full 45 minute rides before finalizing the tune? Any advice would be appreaciated.

Thanks

 

Time is irrelevant, you need way more green cells than that.

Then, because you can't hook an FP3 up to your computer, you may want to manually look at what changed, then possibly blend the changes from the Autotune into the base map you started with, or there may be some rather sharp steps in your VE tables.

Oh, and the FP3 doesn't touch the throttle closed column, so maybe a glance at how that looks as well.

This 'aint easy

PS: there are plenty of threads, try a search or two to get your head around it all

 

I guess it’s not as easy as FP3 makes it out to be . Would you suggest I get my bike to a dyno shop? Can they tune my bike with the FP3?

 

In general - a proper dyno tune is waaaay better than DIY, especially if you don't know what you are doing.

I played with the FP3 and the Power Vision constantly for over two years but I was stage 2 with head work ...my thought is get a pro with a dyno to do it and you just enjoy riding the results.

Having said that, it's difficult to justify that expense for just an exhaust change. The TBR is a 2-1 same as stock, but it will have removed the cats(?) so the difference may be significant and need a bit more than just the VE tables tweaked.

It's not easy to see without taking screenshots but maybe compare the original map and your tuned one to see just how much the tune seems to have moved and then ask that question again and hopefully one of the pro's can comment.

Last time anyone asked, I don't think there are any dyno pro's that are able or willing to use the FP3 (unless you take it to Japan apparently)

 

Maybe compare after 10-20 nice and varying rides, screenshot each after each ride, make notes of each, then you'd have a better sampling at least. The key is understanding the data; then how each tool/tuner can edit and apply changes.

 

Use the hits screen ...that's why it's there. What I said in the other thread was...
The middle bit there is the key!!

One of the key point tho is that you will struggle to get a lot of the cells trying this caper on the street. Last I tried my FP3 it was decidedly fussy at getting sufficient corroborating data to make cells go green. Yes, you can dumb down the number of hits required ...but you get how inaccurate your results will become don't you. This is why the edges around the green area on the hits screen is so important and possibly needing to do some manual blending.

I still say you need a proper computer program to even get half way there.