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Spark Plug analysis help

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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 03:57 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
You don't read afr off the porcelain and it should pretty be white.
Sorry, could you clarify? I don't understand what you mean (don't worry, it's probably me not you!)
 
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 04:15 PM
  #12  
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Rich. You must have tuner if FI. You do not need those. Regular plugs will go 10K easily and work fine. Add a signature line of your bike, model, and all the letters.. Check after a good run also. No idle or pokeing around. Mine look like this. Probably would last a lifetime if you wanted.



 
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 05:09 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Rich. You must have tuner if FI. You do not need those. Regular plugs will go 10K easily and work fine. Add a signature line of your bike, model, and all the letters.. Check after a good run also. No idle or pokeing around. Mine look like this. Probably would last a lifetime if you wanted.
Thanks! Super helpful. I added signature (I think).
 
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by boldham
Thanks! Super helpful. I added signature (I think).
Too cool...at a 100K, I sure would not worry about it if it ran fine.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 01:42 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by boldham
Sorry, could you clarify? I don't understand what you mean (don't worry, it's probably me not you!)
Haha, no it was me. That didn't come out right. The porcelain you see should really be white. The part of it that should have any color, whether light brown/gray depending on fuel used, is the part you can't see without light/magnification. The base of the porcelain where it meets the metal which is where you read a plug for afr.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 03:24 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Haha, no it was me. That didn't come out right. The porcelain you see should really be white. The part of it that should have any color, whether light brown/gray depending on fuel used, is the part you can't see without light/magnification. The base of the porcelain where it meets the metal which is where you read a plug for afr.
Thanks for clarification! I'll dissect the plug when I get replacements. Cheers!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 03:37 PM
  #17  
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Plug gap looks way too big. Could be an optical illusion from photo, but check and gap to spec. Plug are a bit on the dark side, but looks like plug heat range may be too cool, or motor is run at low rpm’s. Doesnt look like it’s running that rich. Install stock plugs and re-check in 100 miles.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 04:08 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bad tappets
Plug gap looks way too big. Could be an optical illusion from photo, but check and gap to spec. Plug are a bit on the dark side, but looks like plug heat range may be too cool, or motor is run at low rpm’s. Doesnt look like it’s running that rich. Install stock plugs and re-check in 100 miles.
I think optical illusion Or maybe the tiny iridium electrode? They're around .040. Thanks for feedback!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 09:07 PM
  #19  
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The DCPR7EIX is the right plug. The correct heat range. Looks like maybe a tad rich and maybe a lot of short runs not getting up to operating temp much?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 10:46 AM
  #20  
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Thanks all for the great advice. I looked at the TMax auto tuning and realized my base nap was too rich. I increased AFR at idle and light throttle and checked plugs after a hundred mile ride and they look much better (light brown color). Prior to that, I retarded the timing at heavier throttle to get rid of pinging. The bike has never run so great. Thanks to you guys and some YouTube videos I learned a ton about spark plugs! I was even inspired to change them in my car, but that took 3 hours because I had to remove various obstacles to even get to them! The test ride was far less fun too!
 
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