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Electrical shutdowns again.

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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 06:24 PM
  #11  
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Last night's shutdown......headlight shuts off, but did not look to see quickly everything on the instruments, but mostly, I will turn the bike ignition off, wait a few moments, then restart it. Proceeded up the hill another 50 yards, and it shutdown again. Today no heat at circuit breaker, no discoloring. Do I cut away the yellow/ red tape at the crimps? Yes I do reconnect the battery posts the right way. Shows 13 amps on the lithium battery. Running Amsoil in it too. One of the forums said it could be a short ignition wire stretching off a pin. I don't have diagnostic equipment, I.e. multimeter. 36,000 miles on it.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 06:46 PM
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13 volts........at the lithium battery. I bought a heat jacket early in the year, plugged it in......had no problem handling the draw, but with the heated gloves, it had shutdown immediately rolling the wick on the onramp.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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If the headlights shut off, it is not a bank angle sensor. Again, if ALL power is lost it's indicative of a circuit breaker (most common) or the ignition switch. Last post indicates a lithium battery. I guess that could be a wildcard here.

I don't understand what the 13 amps at the battery means, I would keep the seat screw out and when it shuts down immediately touch the breaker. Because it resets after sitting that's indicative of a breaker or a battery with an onboard controller.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 07:13 PM
  #14  
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That was 13 " volts" at the battery. Like you said ....... a circuit breaker or ignition switch replacement. I've had a sealed battery in it prior to this one, had same issues. Is it not a good thing to swap batteries from another bike that has the same size battery......if only using one battery for 2 bikes. I do recall having the new lithium in the bmw, it also shutdown on my last long ride, it has never shutdown before with a sealed battery. I might of boiled the 2 6volt coils in the Beemer from this lithium battery. In June this year, I went with choosing a lithium battery. This is getting intense.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 10:28 PM
  #15  
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I would check codes if that year bike will throw them first. One thing to check is the engine temp sensor. This sounds a lot like the shutdown issues I had on a 2007 FLHX.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 11:47 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Old_Bikes
I would check codes if that year bike will throw them first. One thing to check is the engine temp sensor. This sounds a lot like the shutdown issues I had on a 2007 FLHX.
There aren't any sensors on his bike that would cause the headlight to shut off.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 10:03 PM
  #17  
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I will a least get a few circuit breakers, and keep one onboard to start. The lithium battery in the tc88, is meant to be in the bmw for weight reasons. The sealed battery was a bowling ball. 1978 BMW bike is half the weight of the hog. I did mention the lithium battery shutting down the bmw on a real hard ride in the mountains pulling a lot of hills. 42 year old coils would probably contribute.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 01:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Garry Mayer
I will a least get a few circuit breakers, and keep one onboard to start. The lithium battery in the tc88, is meant to be in the bmw for weight reasons. The sealed battery was a bowling ball. 1978 BMW bike is half the weight of the hog. I did mention the lithium battery shutting down the bmw on a real hard ride in the mountains pulling a lot of hills. 42 year old coils would probably contribute.
If you know that the lithium battery shuts down in both bikes, why is it even in either of them?

From your information:
1) Lithium battery shuts off in the BMW and the H-D so that's an issue.
2) Your year is very common to have a bad crimp at the circuit breaker that causes TOTAL electrical shutdown that resets after turning bike off and back on (sometimes takes a minute to cool). You could have 2 problems (battery and crimp) but you won't know until you put a battery for the H-D in the H-D that doesn't have a history of shutting down in multiple bikes.
3) You don't need to buy any circuit breakers to start because the circuit breaker isn't the failure if it's a bad crimp. If it's a bad crimp, the wire must be repaired.
4) If it turns out to be a bad crimp, and the circuit breaker still trips after repair, that's when you replace it. You don't need to "get a few". If it is a bad crimp, and you want to eliminate any future issues - just replace the breaker at the time of repair.
5) If there is NO heat at the breaker, and no bad wire and the breaker keeps tripping, replace it.
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 21, 2020 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 12:17 AM
  #19  
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Seems that some people don't really want help, they just want to air their problems. But you know what? They keep me employed. Thank you for that.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
Seems that some people don't really want help, they just want to air their problems. But you know what? They keep me employed. Thank you for that.
I'm not afraid to ask questions. Guy at Harley said the shriner takes a 50 amp circuit breaker. 2 dealers had no breakers in stock,.....thought that would be simple. This is my first EFI bike. What did you think of the King Of Baggers Race at Laguna?
 
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