Corrosion will play havoc with systems and that’s one of the things you should (and did) inspect for when inspecting fuses/relays/connections. You can also get electrical contact cleaner sprays to spray out the sockets in the fuse box and then blow it out. Corrosion also creates heat. A burn spot is an indication of a loose connection. Make sure the connection is tight for the blades of the relay. Good work!

 

I had several bikes in my shop with the same exact issues, all of them were the system relay dead or almost dead cleaning up the corrosion and installing a new one does the trick

 

Is no news good news?

 

Well yes and no?? Sorry it took so long to report back-

I rode the bike a few more days and it was running beautifully, but my engine light came on, I could not get a code (I could have been doing something wrong there). My new voltage regulator finally arrived, so I installed and also checked voltage on the stator through the plug. The voltage tested .04 with the bike not running, I made the mistake of not checking while running. I installed the new VR and rode to work (4 miles) with no problems. Then took a longer ride, about 10 minutes in, both my battery and engine lights came on but bike was still running fine. Checked codes= none. Checked battery =charged. Checked battery with bike running and under load= no change in voltage with RPMs. I watched the voltage go down on the meter as the bike was running. The bike was not charging properly. After research on this forum and talking to others decided that the stator was failing.

I have now replaced the stator after having to shave off some of the inner primary to get the old one out (using info off this forum). I did not want to wait for additional gaskets, etc. to pull the inner primary. I already had to get quite a few tools to complete the job. (Lost a lot of tools due to house / garage fire a few years ago). I also had to modify a motorcycle lift to accommodate my Dyna frame after I found out the Dyna lift adapters they used to sell are now obsolete and can't be found anymore. My husband helped me of course, but he is used to working on pre-twin cam bikes and had not done a stator before. We have been both riding TCs for the last 12 years or so but this is the first time we had to do any actual repair outside of regular maintenance stuff. So, I am at the stage now, (after waiting on parts and tools to be delivered because nobody has anything in stock), that I have the new stator installed and just need to install the primary chain tensioner and button up the primary. I'll be sure to report back as soon as that is complete. Wish I had more time to do this but work does get in the way along with stock / supply issues everywhere! And it doesn't help that I live out in the boonies and there is no such thing as next day shipping around here.

 

Replaced the stator, voltage regulator, all fuses and both relays. Battery load tested and checks out good. I'm beat.... It's going into the dealer on Thursday. I'll check in when I get it back.

 

Well, the dealer says that the clips on the voltage regulator were not holding the plugs tight enough. I used a Drag Specialties regulator (and yes, the clips looked a little cheap). He says everything else checks out great and he is sure that was the problem. They are going to install a HD voltage regulator (with the proper clips). I'll pick up my bike in a few days.

So to sum it up, I had a few different problems going on here:

1.)The system relay DID fix my problem with not priming at start up sometimes and cutting out during rides, but my next problem (engine and battery lights) got me going in a completely different direction....

2. ) I (probably) needlessly changed out my regulator and stator all because of improper fitting / cheap plug clips on my new voltage regulator!
The stator did look very slightly burnt on one coil, but it may have been OK... The voltage regulator may or may not have been bad, but at this point I will never know.

I made a lot of mistakes (need to learn how to test components better with the meter) but learned some good lessons so I'll chalk it up to that and be done with it.
Thanks to all who responded to this thread and I hope this helps some else down the line.

 

Thank you for the follow up!

 

I was going to respond saying to check the fuses. I had a really strange problem with the radio cutting out and it ended up being a corroded main fuse causing the VR to spike cutting out the amp on the radio. Really weird problems come from corroded fuses. I got all kinds of advice and ended up actually getting a new VR and it was the dang fuse the whole time. I am making it a regular service item now, clean and dielectric grease every other oil change. Good luck!

 

Just thought I would check in here... I never did find the problem with this bike. I'm leaning toward electrical, but I really don't know. I thought I had this fixed for sure, road around for over a month with no problems then the issue came back. The dealer made me a good offer so I traded for a 2014 FLD103 Switchback. I guess it was time for a change because I really love my Switchback. Live and learn.