Throttle blade position adjustment
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 164
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From: Weyburn
Throttle blade position adjustment
Long story short been having issues starting bike. Always needed throttle on a FI bike. Shoukdnt need to do that. In the process, i was told to adj the throttle blade position screw in till isc steos showed 35-40. Was i supposed to do this with the bike off?? Mechanic told me afterwards i was ti do it with bike off so that it calibrated at zero once i started it. If so this may be part of my problem.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,239
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From: St. Catharines, Ontario
Not sure what isc steos is. I adjusted mine such that it was just open , the face of the screw had worn enough that closing the throttle would stall the bike. Discovered later the IAC was a major contributor to the problem
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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more info is needed. toooooo many systems out there.
most modern day systems have no need to adjust the throttle plate once it is set and it is set to keep the plate from sticking in the bore so it is a nats a$$.
the same with pintle systems. once you zero out the pintle, the ecm will cycle it and park it at the proper position.
by messing with the system it will mimic adjusting the throttle plate on a carb which upsets the start circuit, usually done to mask over other non related issues.
KISS it!
make sure the system is clean, wear is not an issue and electrical is up to snuff. do not rule out other systems, all have to play nice.
air leaks will mess with you as well.
most modern day systems have no need to adjust the throttle plate once it is set and it is set to keep the plate from sticking in the bore so it is a nats a$$.
the same with pintle systems. once you zero out the pintle, the ecm will cycle it and park it at the proper position.
by messing with the system it will mimic adjusting the throttle plate on a carb which upsets the start circuit, usually done to mask over other non related issues.
KISS it!
make sure the system is clean, wear is not an issue and electrical is up to snuff. do not rule out other systems, all have to play nice.
air leaks will mess with you as well.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 10
From: Weyburn
Shoot sorry, should have proof read. 05 fxdli and i was talking about the IAC. I was told i needed to adjust the throttle blade screw to get the IAC steps to 35-40. I did that while it was running and afterwards i was told i should only adj the screw when bike is off so it stays calibrated to 0. Wondering if thats maybe why the bike is getting harder to start.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Vancouver Island B.C.
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Weyburn
can anyone confirm this? The HD mechanic is saying only adjust it with bike off as thats how it learns 0
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Joe Kucinski
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Yor missing a few parts of the puzzle. First you must check your TPS voltage at normal temperature, say 200 deg F. This must be between 0.5 and 0.6 volts. If that is correct then you can go to playing with the idle stop screw. Again the bike must be fully warmed up (200 deg or above) check the IAC steps with a scantool. On a properly running bike it should be around 20 - 30 steps max. All of these item must be in range or your idle and starting can be screwed up.
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 10
From: Weyburn
Yor missing a few parts of the puzzle. First you must check your TPS voltage at normal temperature, say 200 deg F. This must be between 0.5 and 0.6 volts. If that is correct then you can go to playing with the idle stop screw. Again the bike must be fully warmed up (200 deg or above) check the IAC steps with a scantool. On a properly running bike it should be around 20 - 30 steps max. All of these item must be in range or your idle and starting can be screwed up.
great info thanks. I have a powervision auto tune pro on the bike so thats easy to check. Once i get that in check do i adjust screw while running or not? If i remember right i think that tps voltage is around .4
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