My 883 EFI seems to sputter when I start out in the colder weather but evens out after it gets good and warm. This appeared after I had Rush 2.0 pipes and a SERT installed. The dealer dyno tuned it and it appeared from the plugs to be too rich. I then installed the SE AC which seems to have leaned out the fuel mixture but the cold start sputter remains. My fuel mileage has also decreased.


Any ideas?

 

The warmup fuel enrichment runs for 45s, is it lasting longer than that? The fuel mileage decreased due to the tune or over time since the tune? Do you have the software and cables for the sert?

 

The sputter lasts longer than 45 seconds after start up. I have the module for the tuner. It is actually the new SE Super Tuner so all the software is hard coded in the module. The plugs now look gray which is where they are supposed to be if it has the right fuel mix isn't it?

Fuel mileage decreased right after the tune and hasn't recovered much.

 

The software isn't hardcoded on the VCI, i.e. the little black box with the red button. There's a cd with the software and a cable for connecting it to the bike. The VCI is sold with and without the cd and cable. It's about $100 cheaper without the software and cable. The shop already has the cd and cable so all they need to dyno tune the bike is the VCI.

Without the software and cable you can't use the VCI yourself. You can only take it in with you if you have the bike retuned so they can use it. Personally, it's worthwhile to get the software and cable because it's a real handy little thing to have. The map they built for you would be good to have as well. Building that map is what you pay for with a dyno tune. If you want to make changes then you need a starting map because you can't create a map from scratch with the software and you can't download the map off the bike.

The map from the dyno tune is of questionable value. It's what's running on the bike, but the ac really, largely, invalidated it. You really need the Stage 1 download or to have it retuned. If you have the cd and cable you can apply the Stage 1 download yourself, assuming you have a laptop.

Your fuel economy likely dropped because they dropped the afr across the board. Your sputtering problems when cold are likely due to never being in closed loop because of that change to the afr. The map file would make it pretty clear if that's what they did. If you had the map you could load the Stage 1 download and see if the problem goes away. You can do that without the map, but you won't be able to return to the map. The map is of questionable value, but you paid a lot for it so it would be nice to keep it. It's a hard pill to swallow to pitch the price of a dyno tune.

The map would give you some idea of what they did. That might help you decide if you decide to get another dyno tune whether you want them to do that one or not. Regretably the stock map doesn't come with the SEST so you can't tell exactly what they changed. Personally, dropping the afr in the cruise range is a gimmack to make the tune seem to do more than it actually did, but there are legitimate arguements for doing so. Assuming they did a good tune, and there's no reason to assume not, comparing it to the Stage 1 download would give you a good idea what that ac changed.

 

+1 to what Lilbudy said. You should have the cables, cd and a copy of the map to see what they have done. Gives you a place to start from, and go back to if needed.

 

Thanks guys this has helped a lot. I paid almost $500 for the SEST so I would think I should have gotten the cables and CD. I am going to call and check on that. Also I am not technically savvy with the bike so I am probably going to have to go back to the dealer.