When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Lets not forget there is a TSB out from HD concerning bad connectors. I think the dealers are taking the easy way out blaming PCV/PCIII for an already documented problem. See attached file....
I am inclined to stick with things that will not void my warranty or extended warranty. I've seen with my own eyes what is happening with these after market fuel packs/tuners and why they are causing problems in Harleys.
I will not recommend an after market fuel pack/tuner to anyone.
I do not like PCIII on bikes with O2 sensors. IMO, they do not have the adjustments necessary to do a complete tune for the newer bikes.
The PCIII has tables for AFR and ignition timing. The EFI needs only to be directed into providing the correct injector pulse-width applied at the right time. If you satisfy both of these criteria throughout the RPM/TP range you have a good tune. So what does the PCIII lack in the hands of a good tuner?
I am inclined to stick with things that will not void my warranty or extended warranty. I've seen with my own eyes what is happening with these after market fuel packs/tuners and why they are causing problems in Harleys.
I will not recommend an after market fuel pack/tuner to anyone.
Adding a PCx will not void your warranty unless the device can be shown to have caused an otherwise warrantable problem. What problems have you seen with PCx tuners? There have been thousands sold and the vast majority have not had trouble with them.
Hi. I'm really confused. I have a 2007 Nightrod. It has aftermarket slipons. I went to get my inspection last Saturday and the tech told me I needed to get a PC because the bike was running lean. It has been hard to hold idle when I first turn it on and will cut out if I don't roll on the throttle a little to get it warm. I've been trying to follow these threads, but can't really make any sense of it. Can anyone help?
You may be suffering from known idling issues in '07 models. Check out TT410 for more info on this problem. Email me here if you want me to send you a copy.
Your bike should run fine with a muffler upgrade only, but won't operate optimally without a tuner and an AC upgrade.
1) This is true. Power Commanders and after market fuel packs seem to cause problems at the connecters and end up wearing out the pins. The basic reason is the way they are installed on Harleys. Most are installed under the seat where there is not a lot of room. Then add the weight of a rider on top. I have seen a lot of this coming into our Service Dept. and it is an expensive and timely fix once the pins have been messed up.
This is interesting. I've been actively participating in this and other forums for 4-5 years and this is the first I've heard of this. Could you point to one thread or link that describes this problem? There have been some isolated problems reported of water entering the connectors but that is eliminated by using dielectric grease during the initial install.
2) I highly recommend to my customers, they should consider a SERT if changing the full exhaust and A/C. Why? because the Tuner allows for further adjustments a download will not compensate for.
SERT is a good option, but there are others than can be considered, including the PCIII that he already has. It would be foolish to remove it and spend more money on anther tuner.
There are too many suggestions in this section that there is only one tuning solution if you want a "good tune." This is not true and you can accomplish what you want with PCx, one of the flash-based tuners (e.g. TTS, SEST), or ThunderMax. The criteria for purchasing one of these is to compare the feature sets of each and if a dyno-tune is decided upon pick the tuner that the competent human tuner prefers.
The PCIII has tables for AFR and ignition timing. The EFI needs only to be directed into providing the correct injector pulse-width applied at the right time. If you satisfy both of these criteria throughout the RPM/TP range you have a good tune. So what does the PCIII lack in the hands of a good tuner?
Let's see,
SEST & TTS both offer
On top of front and rear VE & spark advance (which show total timing) tables are:
Warm-up enrichment Cranking fuel IAC warm-up steps Closed Loop Bias Accel enrichment Decel enleanment (what I hear most people complain about with a PC product) Throttle progressity Engine displacement size Injector size Rpm limit Knock control ACR Temperature management.
That's more than a few more adjustments over the 4 tables PC products allow you to tune.
SEST & TTS have on-line updates to their software which are free. This tells me they are constantly trying to improve their product and then pass along to the consumer. The nice part of this is their hardware is actually able to be updated. How many times has PC offered to update their hardware? They give you at least 40 maps each to choose from with various builds of the most popular products. Everything from mild to wild.
Both SEST and TTS allow you to watch live data. (not sure about this on PC's programmer)
TTS allows you to auto-tune without having to purchase another $300+ of auto-tune parts.
I do not work for either or sell any of their products. I think people should get the most from their money and then have the flexibility to allow any engine change available without having to upgrade to another product.
I'm sure there are 10's of thousands of happy PC users out there and that is great, just do not act like PC is the answer to everyone's needs for a programmer. IMO, the PC product seems very limited to anyone that goes outside the norm for engine performance.
[QUOTE=iclick;6832394... It would be foolish to remove it (PCIII) and spend more money on anther tuner.....[/QUOTE]
Sorry this part of your statement just sounds judgmental... like BS to me.
Do you have any quantitative proof of this foolishness thing, the pluses and minuses... cost perhaps.. maybe presented in an excel table or even some expert peer review perhaps so even I can understand it?
I've been following these kind of threads in a number of forums and mailing lists for near 20 years and this is the first I've heard that it is foolish to ditch something that isn't working good enough for you for something that works better... Thousands of riders have ditched PCIIIs that were not working well enough for them for much better tuning systems and have not looked back, and some of them seem to be pretty intelligent people not wanting to throw good money/effort after bad. I don't think I've read of anyone going back to the PC after moving on.
the tts AND sest have a self tune that only covers idle and cruise. there not a autotune . the wideband o2s with the pcv gives a complete map,wot and cruise. tts only covers about 25% throttle anything after that is a wild guess.
It takes several miles of steady throttle applications to properly auto-tune a bike. Where in the hell are you going to ride a bike at wide open throttle positions to get it properly tuned? Your bike doesn't perform the same in first gear at WOT as it does in high gear at WOT.
With a SEST and TTS, all bikes with O2 sensors are self tuning themselves at steady throttle and idling anyway. You can adjust those parameters to be slightly richer also.
If I am rolling through the gears, I want my bike performing at it's highest level so I adjust it to suit me. Anything over 25% throttle opening in high gear has me cruising close to 90 mph easily. Do you think it needs auto-tuned for 90 mph riding? It's not guessing where to run over 25%, it is operating on properly adjusted tables I set up.
I'll let the stock O2 sensors do their job when I'm cruising (averaging over 40 mpg at 70 mph, 2 up). Never overheating either.
Question for you; does the wide band sensors stay active all the time when not in auto-tune mode?
There have been some isolated problems reported of water entering the connectors but that is eliminated by using dielectric grease during the initial install.
What if water entered the connectors after the initial install? Can that be corrected? If so, how?
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.