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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I've done some some reading and have seen reports of 3 codes hitting - one for each injector and one for the system relay - but not for just the single code like I'm getting. Changing the relay for them seemed to solve the 3 code problem.
I'm only getting the front injector P0261 code. Would the system relay still be a likely suspect or would wiring to the injector (corrosion or a pinched wire perhaps) or the ECM itself be more likely?
Just a little background - Everything was running great. I was doing some engine work so the TB had to be removed. Once I reassembled everything I started getting the code. The engine wouldn't idle, but ran fine above 1500 RPM.
My tuner said I could really benefit from a larger TB and injectors anyway since the motor was at the edge of getting enough air and fuel delivery with the stock TB and injectors. So I changed to a HPI throttle body and 5.3 GPM injectors half hoping that I had a bad stock injector and the code would go away. No such luck...
If I replace the system relay and still get the code, what would be my next step?
This is on a 2007 Road King Classic. Thanks for any advice.
the first thing was this code there prior or after u replaced the tb. if it was after you replaced it. you want to look at the injector connector and inside the injector to make sure you did not bend the small pins on the injector. if ok you need to very small paper clips to insert in the injector connector. I have special terminal pins for checking connectors for test. lightly install one in terminal A on a dyna that wire color is yellow and green I think it should be the same. hook a test light to good ground turn on the ignition and see if test light, lights when touched to terminal A if it does its ok. install paper clip in terminal b hook test light to terminal B and A crank engine over test light should flash. if you can get to injector terminals test between them with a ohms meter for 11-14 ohms. and what size engine and hpi tb are u running.
I'll give that a try with the test light. I've got a 107 and put on an HPI 51MM TB and 5.3 injectors.
Yes, the code was there prior to the TB swap, but not before I did the motor work. I put everything back together with the stock TB and injectors and that's when I got the code and the front injector was barely firing at idle. Running on one cylinder at idle basically. All the wires that I could see looked good. Nothing exposed or pinched from the backbone down to the connector and the wires aren't pulled tight when plugged in to the injector. Figured I just might have a bad injector, so that's when I decided to go ahead and get the bigger TB and injector combo.
I went ahead and replaced the system relay and all the fuses in the fuse block last night. I'm still getting the same code, although it's not consistent. It will start and go to high idle (1500 rpm or so) and run great, then throw the code as it drops closer to 1200 rpm and run like crap, clear itself and then run fine for a while then throw it again. Since I have new hardware, I've got to assume that it's in the wiring, and likely inside the connector with a loose or corroded terminal or something. Unless there's another sensor I'm not thinking of. All the sensors on the new TB (MAP, temp, IAC, etc) are new too...
Well I'm pretty sure I found the problem... I pulled the tank and unhooked the connector. I was going to take the connector apart and check out the terminals to see if they were corroded. Got the connector taken apart and was pulling the wires out when the "B" wire (white/yellow) pulled out and left the female metal piece inside the plastic housing. No wonder it was only firing from time to time.
Now, the question is where to get these connectors locally? Dealer, Autozone, ?? Figured I'd pick up a couple just in case the rear one took a crap on me too.
Well I'm pretty sure I found the problem... I pulled the tank and unhooked the connector. I was going to take the connector apart and check out the terminals to see if they were corroded. Got the connector taken apart and was pulling the wires out when the "B" wire (white/yellow) pulled out and left the female metal piece inside the plastic housing. No wonder it was only firing from time to time.
Now, the question is where to get these connectors locally? Dealer, Autozone, ?? Figured I'd pick up a couple just in case the rear one took a crap on me too.
I tried this rabbit hole of finsing connector pins. I found it easier to buy and use DT connectors and pins. Waterproof and work perfectly
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