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Carb all done. Of course, somehow- I pointed the accelerator jet toward the air filter, NOT toward the inlet valves. Jeessshhh. Fortunately just dropped the bowl a bit, turn it with a wrench until the correct orientation and all good. Bike no longer leaks fuel all over and it runs quite well.
I don’t like the ‘manual return’ throttle personally, and the original ‘Buckhorn’ handlebars are quite uncomfortable for me. But both are easily changed for ones that I like better and I can keep all the original stuff for the next guy if he/she wants it that way.
The angle of the bars hurt my wrist quite qucikly, so I have some straighter/flatter ones I will try out.
Carb all done. Of course, somehow- I pointed the accelerator jet toward the air filter, NOT toward the inlet valves. Jeessshhh. Fortunately just dropped the bowl a bit, turn it with a wrench until the correct orientation and all good. Bike no longer leaks fuel all over and it runs quite well.
I don’t like the ‘manual return’ throttle personally, and the original ‘Buckhorn’ handlebars are quite uncomfortable for me. But both are easily changed for ones that I like better and I can keep all the original stuff for the next guy if he/she wants it that way.
The angle of the bars hurt my wrist quite qucikly, so I have some straighter/flatter ones I will try out.
I don't think that brass washer belongs under the idle adjustment screw and spring. And it looks like you may have forgotten to put the spring and pin in behind the choke detent plate. The pressure from the spring and pin holds the choke plate at closed, half and open positions. And BTW, I'd like to know how your pump operates. I see the spring in the pump assembly might be too weak to push the leather "piston" down when you operate the throttle. Found out that all repop pump assemblies have a spring in them that's not stiff enough to push the fuel through. The original spring has a wire diameter of .036". the aftermarket springs are only .024" wire diameter.
Last edited by omar1951; Oct 2, 2024 at 06:15 AM.
Reason: more info
No washer under the idle speed screw and the extra load in time could damage the alloy threads
we re use the oem spring acc pump — but the umbrella is the reason the pump does not move - again we re use another piece the umbrella - the china **** is all like that -
i have bought at swap meets bendix carbs for years 10 bucks or so i re move the piece that are actually re usable and soak in penna oil in a jar and move on
back In the day we seen them all the time on choppers and they did the job well - original external mix screw Keihin is another go to but the at is also a hens tooth today -0 but new ones are out but very pricy
No washer under the idle speed screw and the extra load in time could damage the alloy threads
we re use the oem spring acc pump but the umbrella is the reason the pump does not move - again we re use another piece the umbrella - the china **** is all like that -
i have bought at swap meets bendix carbs for years 10 bucks or so i re move the piece that are actually re usable and soak in penna oil in a jar and move on
back In the day we seen them all the time on choppers and they did the job well - original external mix screw Keihin is another go to but the at is also a hens tooth today -0 but new ones are out but very pricy
I agree about what you call the umbrella. i call it a piston. Just curious, if you replace the umrella, does it come off by pressing the shaft from the bottom? You'd have to use an really small pin to press off the washer. Also, I used the pink colored piston in one assembly and when I actuated the throttle, the plunger moved and compressed the weak spring but the piston did not move. BTW, I have a copy of the drawing from Bendix describing the spring that goes in that assembly. It's .036" wire diameter, .25" max OD, and 2.17" long in relaxed position.
A common problem on some rebuild kits (I'm not seeing it on your set up) is the length of the accelerator pump shaft. It may tend to hang up at 90+% full throttle. Might be worth checking while the carb is on the bench. Trim the shaft length a bit, if it is.
I don't think that brass washer belongs under the idle adjustment screw and spring. And it looks like you may have forgotten to put the spring and pin in behind the choke detent plate. The pressure from the spring and pin holds the choke plate at closed, half and open positions. And BTW, I'd like to know how your pump operates. I see the spring in the pump assembly might be too weak to push the leather "piston" down when you operate the throttle. Found out that all repop pump assemblies have a spring in them that's not stiff enough to push the fuel through. The original spring has a wire diameter of .036". the aftermarket springs are only .024" wire diameter.
that washer was on it- so I left it. I neglected to check the manual to see if it was supposed to be there or thot. Thanks Mine did not have a spring and ball for choke, and I didnt see anything in the manual about it. I did look since it certainly appeared it was setup for one. I can rectify those.
that washer was on it- so I left it. I neglected to check the manual to see if it was supposed to be there or thot. Thanks Mine did not have a spring and ball for choke, and I didnt see anything in the manual about it. I did look since it certainly appeared it was setup for one. I can rectify those.
It's not a ball, it's a short piece of round stock with a full radius on one end that drops into the detents as the choke is operated. I'd say it's approximately 1/4" long.
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