Cherry red pipes
Ok bike has a two into one. It has been popping through the carb at idle and when riding. I checked the plug gap and both plugs need gapped. I set the points, again way off. I just started the bike and it is still popping but no where near as bad and the bike started right up. With it being dark out I couldn't help but notice that the header pipes (both front and rear) glowed bright red...is this normal? if it is I'm probably going to set my right leg on fire.
The pipes are glowing red? You have to be kidding.
This is absolutely not normal. You need to find what the problem is and fix it before riding the bike. Red pipes means super heated combustion chamber(s).
You said you set the points gap. Did you check both cam lobes? If you are wondering what 'both cam lobes' mean, the ignition cam has 2 lobes. One for each cylinder. So you need to check the gap at both cam tips.
The normal gap is .018 and the difference between the 2 is .004 max.
For instance, you set the gap at 1 lobe at .018. Rotate the engine around and the gap on the other lobe is .023 (just an example). That is a difference of .005. You need to buy a new lobe because the diff is greater than .004 due to cam wear.
Another example, you set the gap at .018, rotate to the other cam and the gap is .021......a difference of .003 in this case.
What you do next is to set the gap on that other lobe at either .016 or .017 (instead of .018) and then the wider gap will be reduced to .019 or .020 depending on how you chose to gap. You are within the wear limit of .004 and you have 'balanced' the gap between the lobes so you are good to go with that.
The next step you must do is to set the ignition timing. Do you know how that is done? Let me know if you need help with that. It requires a timing light and a plexiglas plug for the left side hole in the crankcase.
While you are at it, you should adjust the valve (pushrod) clearance on the engine when it is stone cold. Again, if you need help just let me know.
The backfiring is one of two things. Either the mixture is really rich (this will be indicated by sooty powder on the plugs) or the inlet manifold has an air leak.
I bet it is an air leak. While the engine is running on the stand, open the throttle a bit to induce the backfiring. Squirt some water out of a bottle around the manifold connections and see if the backfiring stops. If that is the case, remove the carb and manifold and inspect the O rings. These are a trick to sometimes get them to seal. Again, I can give you more pointers on doing this if you need it.
I think after doing the above items the red pipes should be gone..........pg
This is absolutely not normal. You need to find what the problem is and fix it before riding the bike. Red pipes means super heated combustion chamber(s).
You said you set the points gap. Did you check both cam lobes? If you are wondering what 'both cam lobes' mean, the ignition cam has 2 lobes. One for each cylinder. So you need to check the gap at both cam tips.
The normal gap is .018 and the difference between the 2 is .004 max.
For instance, you set the gap at 1 lobe at .018. Rotate the engine around and the gap on the other lobe is .023 (just an example). That is a difference of .005. You need to buy a new lobe because the diff is greater than .004 due to cam wear.
Another example, you set the gap at .018, rotate to the other cam and the gap is .021......a difference of .003 in this case.
What you do next is to set the gap on that other lobe at either .016 or .017 (instead of .018) and then the wider gap will be reduced to .019 or .020 depending on how you chose to gap. You are within the wear limit of .004 and you have 'balanced' the gap between the lobes so you are good to go with that.
The next step you must do is to set the ignition timing. Do you know how that is done? Let me know if you need help with that. It requires a timing light and a plexiglas plug for the left side hole in the crankcase.
While you are at it, you should adjust the valve (pushrod) clearance on the engine when it is stone cold. Again, if you need help just let me know.
The backfiring is one of two things. Either the mixture is really rich (this will be indicated by sooty powder on the plugs) or the inlet manifold has an air leak.
I bet it is an air leak. While the engine is running on the stand, open the throttle a bit to induce the backfiring. Squirt some water out of a bottle around the manifold connections and see if the backfiring stops. If that is the case, remove the carb and manifold and inspect the O rings. These are a trick to sometimes get them to seal. Again, I can give you more pointers on doing this if you need it.
I think after doing the above items the red pipes should be gone..........pg
I set the points gap on the biggers lobe(the one with the most lift). I didn't set it on the other lobe. Is the other lobe 180 deg from the tall one? I will do this tomorrow after work. My book says I need to use a sight glass to set the timing...where can I buy one of these?
Jimbo...
The lobes are different shape I believe because of the 45 degree cylinder stroke. In anycase, you need to compare the gap on both to see how far off the 'normal' gap of .018 you are.
Now regarding needing a 'sightglass'.........Man, what kind of a book do you have? I have never heard of such a thing.
I will try to gather some info on ignition timing for you and attach it here with another post. The problem with that is here on the forum I can only attach a jpeg file, not a pdf.
If you would prefer a pdf then email me and I will send you the attachment you need..........pg
The lobes are different shape I believe because of the 45 degree cylinder stroke. In anycase, you need to compare the gap on both to see how far off the 'normal' gap of .018 you are.
Now regarding needing a 'sightglass'.........Man, what kind of a book do you have? I have never heard of such a thing.
I will try to gather some info on ignition timing for you and attach it here with another post. The problem with that is here on the forum I can only attach a jpeg file, not a pdf.
If you would prefer a pdf then email me and I will send you the attachment you need..........pg
I have the factory service manual pg 5-31 under checking and adjusting timing 1971 & later models...blah...blah..view front cylinder advance timing mark(12) on flywheel through "accessory plastic view plug screwed into timing inspection hole" I see a plug in this location on my bike. Is there a plastic window under this plug? or can I just pull the plug and see the mark through the hole...Confused as usual.
Hmmmm, my factory manual only goes to pg 5-29......end of book.
Anyway, when you remove the steel plug on the left side of the engine there is an open hole. The steel disc you see inside is your left flywheel. On this there will be two markings.....one has a vertical slash. This is the front cylinder timing mark.
The other marking is a double dot. This is the rear cylinder timing mark.
You screw an accessory plastic plug into this hole. The plastic plug is to prevent wind and oil from coming out the hole while the engine is running. You look down through the plastic and try to see the timing mark. I say 'try' because it is not an easy task, but it can be done. You will just have to move your head to one side or another to catch a glimsp of the mark.......Let me know if you want the full seven pages of the ignition section........pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/A647904F85D048B7849120E9940238CD.jpg[/IMG]
Anyway, when you remove the steel plug on the left side of the engine there is an open hole. The steel disc you see inside is your left flywheel. On this there will be two markings.....one has a vertical slash. This is the front cylinder timing mark.
The other marking is a double dot. This is the rear cylinder timing mark.
You screw an accessory plastic plug into this hole. The plastic plug is to prevent wind and oil from coming out the hole while the engine is running. You look down through the plastic and try to see the timing mark. I say 'try' because it is not an easy task, but it can be done. You will just have to move your head to one side or another to catch a glimsp of the mark.......Let me know if you want the full seven pages of the ignition section........pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/A647904F85D048B7849120E9940238CD.jpg[/IMG]
Trending Topics
Even evos have same treath in that plughole... it should found in any dealer...
If your primarys are glowing "red hot" there is IMO 3 possible reasons (separately or combined)
1. Ignition timing is wrong ( late)
2. Pushrod adjustment ( no gap in exhaust)
3. Fuel mixture wrong ( too lean)
First indication lean mixture is, when you are trying to gently trottle up (about from 2000rpm ) it starts to pop or backfire through the carb .
If your primarys are glowing "red hot" there is IMO 3 possible reasons (separately or combined)
1. Ignition timing is wrong ( late)
2. Pushrod adjustment ( no gap in exhaust)
3. Fuel mixture wrong ( too lean)
First indication lean mixture is, when you are trying to gently trottle up (about from 2000rpm ) it starts to pop or backfire through the carb .



