READING CHALLENGED or just stupid??????? If reading challenged, I suggest you find a literate person to read &amp\\; explain the content of my post. If just plain stupid, WELL.............no cure for that honey.

 

suggest you're the **** for brains.Suggesting corvette air shocks as an option to lower an Ironhead.Or flh shocks.Tells me your stupid *** dosen't have a clue about the difference in the early 70's Ironheads.The man specifically stated his bike is an early 70 which suggests his tire size would probably be 130/90/16 unlike the 110/90/18 you claim to be running which in and of itself should have been a clue to you that his bike was different.The fact that it didn't tells me you don't have a clue.I still have a grand pilgrum that says you cant lower your bike with stock components 3 in without tearing up the tires like you bull shittingly claim.Suggest you not comment on any of my postings anymore Horses ***.You are clearly outgunned.

 

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I suggest you change yer nick to "Chihuahua"...........pitbulls don't yap yap yap yap yap yap yap yap...................

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For pitbull - those old Ironheads did not come stock with 16 inch wheels, but with 18 inch.&nbsp\\;
Your 1975 came stock with either a Goodyear 4.25 x 18 All Traction tire, or with a Yokohama Y-622 (4.25-18T) High Speed tire.
Many of us ran FL or FX shocks to lower the rear, with both the 18 or 16 rims laced to a stock hub.
Only time I remember the tire rubbing when I ran the 16 was when I was hauling one particularly robust she-devil.
Tire was an old 5.10 x 16 Beck, which had a pretty tall profile.
Before that I had a 5.00 x 16 Goodyear and it did not rub.
But I did not haul that one she-devil with it on there.

 

Thanks for the info and for making me check on it.I did not know they came with an 18in wheel.I stand corrected.After checking my&nbsp\\;factory manual I now see that they came with a 5.00 and 5.10-16 in. and a&nbsp\\;stock mn90-18 on the rear.The 16 in. was an accessory item according to my book.So I guess there were 2 sizes.All I know is my experience with mine and that is that it has an 16 in tire and when I dropped it 1 1/4 in it would rub with the old lady aboard.She is about 150 lbs.&nbsp\\;

 

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Thanks as "I knew" I wasn't "dreaming" I've been running an FL shock&nbsp\\;made for&nbsp\\;an old electra-glide and a 18 inch wheel since I JUST MOUNTED A NEW TIRE &amp\\; TUBE ON THE THING!
I also didn't need to look in my manual to know 18 wheels were STANDARD EQUIPMENT on earlier Sportsters ( 1975 is the newest I've owned in the 35+ years I've been riding &amp\\; building &amp\\; chopping&nbsp\\;Sportsters and&nbsp\\; other motorcycles)
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BTW-&gt\\; FL shocks are from 13 inch to 11 inch. An early 70's Sporty shock is 14 1/2 inches. I'm running a 13 inch solid chrome covered FL shock. It does not rub running a 110/90/18 even with the shock set soft and a rider on the back. ( my 110/90-18 is close to an old 4.50 - 18&nbsp\\; )
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I have friends who even use the 11 inch FL shock. But the 11 seems to be the limit and the shock is set harder.
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Something else some of these guys do not know is that modern tire profiles are different........not as tall and fatter. A 130-90- 16 is TOO WIDE FOR THE FENDER(MEASURE IT!). It will always rub with weight or a shorter shock or a pothole with a "SWING ARM FRAME".
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Too many out there watching the learning channel bike show crap and wanting to squeeze a TOO FAT TIRE into the bike for no other reason than to ATTEMPT to look cool and follow the herd.
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FACT IS..........the more narrow tire profile handles better all the way around and you have no issues that come with not fitting the correct parts.
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Now as far as 70's corvette shocks.........this is a "custom trick". If you would measure a set.......you'd find they are of the right length and width to easily adapt to a Sportster. The ends are right also with only a "SLIGHT MOD" needed to the end bushings. Then after they are mounted you do not run air lines...you use a separate valve on each shock. "MOST" folks that I've seen do this also paint the shock body to match the bikes paint or bright aluminum. They actually work very well and only cost less than $75 tax included EVERYWHERE...............or you can be a RUB with no imagination and spend $500 - $600 or more for&nbsp\\;AIR SHOCKS&nbsp\\;ADVERTISED to be for a Harley......That look about the same and work no better ( just have that shiny RUB chrome thing going).
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Nothing "Wally-world" about doing some trick ****..........although I do find lots of parts and such at Wally-World..........but then.....I builds my own....always have......and I avoid HD stealerships and Starbuck Bikers like the nauseating plague they are.
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But alas............some folks just can't manage to think out of the box or imagine they know it all. My posts ain't directed at these types as I don't waste time trying to explain things to brick wall mentalities.

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