I need some advice on a project
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: East Central Illinois
One more reason NOT to try and get it going... any oil that may be left will be pooled at the lowest point in each part of the bike and by now, will be nothing but sludge which you don't want clogging up all the various arteries of the motor if they arn't allready. Common sense say you will need to take it apart to inspect the inside at some point. Do it right and do it first.
Rich
p.s., if you don't want it, I do
Rich
p.s., if you don't want it, I do
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,033
Likes: 29
Personally, I'd buy it, part it out, double or triple my money, and then buy a nice low mile EVO....There are tons of them to be had for cheap. I have a buddy that just picked up a 2000 883 with 8k miles on it for 2800 bucks.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Probably not a bad idea to drain the oil tank and refill but there's no oil "pooled in the lowest point in each part of the bike". This is dry sump engine, i.e. all the oil is in the oil tank when the engine isn't running. If the check valve in the oil pump has failed and allowed oil to run from the tank down into the case, you'll find this out the first time you kick it through when oil comes out the breather. actually, after 15 years if the pump's check valve has leaked, the oil may have already flowed out the breather.
So like he says, better to tear it down and check the condition of the engine. The alternative is to try to start it and that will do it no good at all.
So, if it starts, so what? You gonna ride around on a rusty piece of crap? Not me.
I say do the engine check out first, then if no big problems are found start with the massive clean up on the frame and other stuff......pg
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: East Central Illinois
Pardon me, but Pyro knows what he is talking about and what he is talking about is the check valve has certainly leaked and filled the crankcase with oil. If you fire up the bike, some of this oil will be expelled thru the breather but most will end up going through the bearings of the engine.
So like he says, better to tear it down and check the condition of the engine. The alternative is to try to start it and that will do it no good at all.
So, if it starts, so what? You gonna ride around on a rusty piece of crap? Not me.
I say do the engine check out first, then if no big problems are found start with the massive clean up on the frame and other stuff......pg
So like he says, better to tear it down and check the condition of the engine. The alternative is to try to start it and that will do it no good at all.
So, if it starts, so what? You gonna ride around on a rusty piece of crap? Not me.
I say do the engine check out first, then if no big problems are found start with the massive clean up on the frame and other stuff......pg
Pete
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
The point is that once the engine was shut off for the last time, the oil pump also stopped pumping. The oil that was currently being circulated in the engine doesn't just magically return to the tank. It pools to where ever gravity will take it. You may not have a problem just adding oil to a bike that's been sitting for two years, but I have a big problem with taking a risk that feed and return lines in a 15 year neglected motor will get blocked and cause a situation where the pistons are running dry. Show bike, daily driver, whatever, a siezed engine is a bit more of an issue. One that can be avoided.
Rich
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Rich
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 149
Likes: 2
It sounds like a great project, and that's the right price. Pull the top end off, check out the motor, and if the bottom end is shot, hawk the parts on ebay and you'll come out quite a bit ahead. If the motor looks good, put it back together and get it on the road. I've seen a lot of guys on these forums asking if they should pay twice that much or more for a non-runner.
Worst case scenario, you tie up your dough for the winter, learn a bunch about Ironheads, and have to part it out.
Best case, you get on the road on a bike you resuscitated yourself for under two grand (maybe less).
Worst case scenario, you tie up your dough for the winter, learn a bunch about Ironheads, and have to part it out.
Best case, you get on the road on a bike you resuscitated yourself for under two grand (maybe less).
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Don't make that mistake of even trying to loosen it. Leave it alone!
That plug is anything but a drain. It was put in there to plug a hole required for machining the engine. It should have had the hole welded up, but HD decided to install a one time use plug instead.........pg