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I own 73 ironhead thats driving me nuts, i got fuel, i got great spark, everything is new, turns over but will not start, checked and rechecked timing and still nothing, checked pushrods, if it would be 180 degrees off whats the fix? if it would be trying to fire off the rear cylinder,whats the fix? could cam be off alittle, if i take the cam out do i set the mark on the flywheel for the 40 degree front cylinder advance before i reinstall the cam? this is all new to me so any help would be awsome....thanks
FYI: both plugs fire at the same time, so you cannot 'get it 180° out'.
You most likely have an issue with either the carb, the ignition timing, or both.
Set the base of the points in the middle of the slot. This will set the timing close enough to get it started. You can set the timing more accurately after you get it running.
I am thinking it is most likely something to do with the carb. Are the plugs wet after you have tried cranking it? Will the spark wires jump an eighth inch air gap with a nice blue spark when held close to ground and cranked over?
If the answer is yes to those questions, then just buy a can of starter fluid and give a healthy squirt down the carb throat and try cranking it again.
Careful with that stuff however. It is explosive and you want to always have the air cleaner on the bike before you crank it, otherwise a backfire can easily happen and you can burn the bike to the ground. Don't ask me how I know this
pg
fires right up with a shot of starting fluid,revs high for about 2 sec. then shuts off, i have a shorty super E carb that i just bought and installed a mild rebuild kit in, got nice blue spark from both plug wires, do you need the bike in 4th gear when you set the points gap at 18 thousands?
do you need the bike in 4th gear when you set the points gap at 18 thousands?
No you do not. What you have no doubt read regarding 4th gear is to block the bike up with the rear wheel free of the ground.
Then remove both plugs and put the bike in 4th gear. This allows you to rotate the engine forward using the rear tire as a crank. This moves the engine easily and smoothly so you can get the high point of both ignition cam lobes at high center under the points foot.
Just another way to do it is all the 4th gear stuff is about.
If you spray starter fluid in the carb and it cranks and then dies.....
here is what is happening...
The engine is starting and running (a short time) purely on the starter fluid. This means that your carb is not delivering fuel/air mix to the venturi. So, look at what is the problem with the carb and then you will be able to get it running. Check the float level, jets to make sure they have no trash in them etc........pg
If you spray starter fluid in the carb and it cranks and then dies.....
here is what is happening...
The engine is starting and running (a short time) purely on the starter fluid. This means that your carb is not delivering fuel/air mix to the venturi. So, look at what is the problem with the carb and then you will be able to get it running. Check the float level, jets to make sure they have no trash in them etc........pg
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Agreed! Try turning on your accelerator pump on, on the super e to at the very least give you a good squirt of fuel into the cylinders when you pull the throttle. This will likely get the bike started and keep it runing as long as you snap the throttle every few seconds.
If this gets your bike running then try adjusting the idle mixture screw more to the rich side.
the jets that were in the super E..main jet was 31 and the interm. jet was 74 i was told that these were way to big, so the shop that told me this sold me a 26 main and a 66 interm. i have a stock p cam and bored 30 over with 9.5 to 1 pistons, are these jets to small, or are the others to big like they said? which would be a better fit? also is there a reason my throttle lever on carb doesn't touch the throttle screw even when the screw is all the way down? thanks brothers 4 all your help!!!!
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