85 Ironhead
It is important that they be not too tight. For the exhausts, adjust them finger tight so that you cannot rotate the pushrod with your fingers, then loosen just enough so that you can, then loosen "1 side" more. Same for the intakes but loosen "1/2 side" more instead of "1 side" more. "Side" refers to a side of the six sided adjuster.
Ask questions at each stage:
1: remove anything that is in the way
2. Pop out the keepers with a flatblade screwdriver
3. lift up the covers and secure them with a length of solder wire or household electrical wire or whatever [coat hanger is too stiff]
4. You need 1/2" and 7/16" open end wrenches
5. Spark plugs out, rear wheel off the ground, shift to 4th gear
6. rotate the engine with the rear wheel; adjust a pushrod when the corresponding one on the opposite cylinder is up [<-- error corrected!]
7. when you final tighten the lock nut do not overdo it out of fear that it will come loose; it is a locknut, it will not come loose; 10 ft lbs [firm plus a little more] will do it.
Last edited by IronMick; Mar 28, 2009 at 01:54 PM. Reason: [<-- error corrected!]
Mick......
A small correction there.
You adjust a pushrod when the opposite like pushrod is at it's highest point, not the lowest point.
For example, if you want to adjust the rear intake the front intake must be at it's highest point ( front intake valve fully open).
Now you can adjust the rear intake valve which is fully down (valve completely closed)
You know what I'm saying, but your words just got switched around....... pg
[SIZE=3][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Mick......
A small correction there.
You adjust a pushrod when the opposite like pushrod is at it's highest point, not the lowest point...








