81 XL issues
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Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
81 XL issues
Howdy folks. I was gifted an 81 XL on a Paugcho frame a few months ago, first bike, and have done some major and minor work on it thus far. She is nearly inspection ready but I am still having some problems.
1. Every now and then she wont up shift to 4th, and go into neutral from 3rd instead. She also has problems from first to second, getting stuck at neutral sometimes, and I have to downshift back to 1 to try again to hit 2.
- Previous work done:
I replaced clutch basket, plates and all, springs, and clutch cable, adjusted chain tensioner, added proper oil, replaced gasket.
2. I have some issues with my wiring. The bike came wired up like a birds nest, and i havent added anything other than a new head light, tail light, and brake light switch for the front brake lever to the old wiring scheme. It never fails that when i leave the house with 15 good volts in the battery, i always come back with less than 12. I dont hit many stoplights, and avoid stops for gas as much as possible to save battery life. Once i left with 13+ and made one stop for gas, and another at the hardware store. Bike wouldnt start at the store when i left. Im thinking a loose wiring scheme or a poor generator.
- Previous work done:
I added a new set of controls to the bike, complete with buttons for horn, blinkers, on/off, high/low, horn, etc.... but have only wired up the new headlight and the brake light switch. The rest are unused until the rest of the parts come in. I also replaced the old custom LED tailight board with a new lamp, dual contact led bulbs, one for running, the other activates when a pressure switch is pressed, all parts are 12v rated.
3. This bike did not come with an oil filter, not sure how its still running, but it is. The frame is an old Paugcho frame, and i have no idea where to begin to locate a custom oil filter kit that will suffice. Any suggestions are appreciated.
1. Every now and then she wont up shift to 4th, and go into neutral from 3rd instead. She also has problems from first to second, getting stuck at neutral sometimes, and I have to downshift back to 1 to try again to hit 2.
- Previous work done:
I replaced clutch basket, plates and all, springs, and clutch cable, adjusted chain tensioner, added proper oil, replaced gasket.
2. I have some issues with my wiring. The bike came wired up like a birds nest, and i havent added anything other than a new head light, tail light, and brake light switch for the front brake lever to the old wiring scheme. It never fails that when i leave the house with 15 good volts in the battery, i always come back with less than 12. I dont hit many stoplights, and avoid stops for gas as much as possible to save battery life. Once i left with 13+ and made one stop for gas, and another at the hardware store. Bike wouldnt start at the store when i left. Im thinking a loose wiring scheme or a poor generator.
- Previous work done:
I added a new set of controls to the bike, complete with buttons for horn, blinkers, on/off, high/low, horn, etc.... but have only wired up the new headlight and the brake light switch. The rest are unused until the rest of the parts come in. I also replaced the old custom LED tailight board with a new lamp, dual contact led bulbs, one for running, the other activates when a pressure switch is pressed, all parts are 12v rated.
3. This bike did not come with an oil filter, not sure how its still running, but it is. The frame is an old Paugcho frame, and i have no idea where to begin to locate a custom oil filter kit that will suffice. Any suggestions are appreciated.
3. oil filters were not standard equipment until about 1980. I do know that they were an option in 1979. Lots of these bikes have run for decades without, as long as the oil is changed regularly.
Kits are commonly available. Any inde motorcycle shop can order one in. Or go to any of the catalog companies such as J&P Cycles www.jpcycles.com or eBay.
Kits are commonly available. Any inde motorcycle shop can order one in. Or go to any of the catalog companies such as J&P Cycles www.jpcycles.com or eBay.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,852
Likes: 2,493
From: Decatur, Alabama
My 75 came with an oil filter in the tank when I got it in 81. Remember that God-awful contraption that consisted of several pieces? The actual filter was some kind of wound up brass mess. I've still got mine in a box somewhere. I assumed it was stock.
Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
thanks Mick,
I forgot to mention one bit of critical info, the engine sits on the frame such that the oil drain plug is blocked by a supporting bar of the frame, so I cant drain the engine at its lowest point. I pulled the oil line from the pump, drained the tank that way, ran some seafoam through the system to clean it up a bit, drained it again, and topped it off. If this beast doesnt need a filter, I will forgo the purchase, but my suspicions tell me that there is a bunch of gunk sitting in the bottom of the engine case.
I forgot to mention one bit of critical info, the engine sits on the frame such that the oil drain plug is blocked by a supporting bar of the frame, so I cant drain the engine at its lowest point. I pulled the oil line from the pump, drained the tank that way, ran some seafoam through the system to clean it up a bit, drained it again, and topped it off. If this beast doesnt need a filter, I will forgo the purchase, but my suspicions tell me that there is a bunch of gunk sitting in the bottom of the engine case.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
you do not drain the oil from the motor! you drain from the oil tank, if the bottom end has too much oil in it that is another problem, if you remove that bolt from the bottom of the motor it will strip and you will be in for a tear down! isn't your drain hose for the tank on the bottom of your battery tray?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
thanks Mick,
I forgot to mention one bit of critical info, the engine sits on the frame such that the oil drain plug is blocked by a supporting bar of the frame, so I cant drain the engine at its lowest point. I pulled the oil line from the pump, drained the tank that way, ran some seafoam through the system to clean it up a bit, drained it again, and topped it off. If this beast doesnt need a filter, I will forgo the purchase, but my suspicions tell me that there is a bunch of gunk sitting in the bottom of the engine case.
I forgot to mention one bit of critical info, the engine sits on the frame such that the oil drain plug is blocked by a supporting bar of the frame, so I cant drain the engine at its lowest point. I pulled the oil line from the pump, drained the tank that way, ran some seafoam through the system to clean it up a bit, drained it again, and topped it off. If this beast doesnt need a filter, I will forgo the purchase, but my suspicions tell me that there is a bunch of gunk sitting in the bottom of the engine case.
Ya, you have to be clear here about which oil we are talking about. The engine oil or the primary oil. Only the engine oil goes thru the oil filter.
Engine oil in oil tank with drain plug. Primary oil in case with a different drain plug - on the left side, bottom, near jiffy stand mount.
Engine oil in oil tank with drain plug. Primary oil in case with a different drain plug - on the left side, bottom, near jiffy stand mount.
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Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
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Point well taken, thanks for the critical info.
Anyone know where I can get a deal on an inline voltage gauge. I am thinking the voltage problem lies in the generator, or the parts I have added. I bought a cheap little continuity reader (connect to both ends of a wire and a light will illuminate if there is current) and used it on each battery cable with the power turned off. It didnt light up so i assume there is no voltage bleed. I guess there still could be some bleed with the power on, but that might take years for me to single out which splice is faulty.
Concerns-
1. the equipment I added to the wiring scheme is pulling too fast for the generator to keep up (added a new headlight, and led tail lights, brand new HD gell cell)
2. the generator is on its way out the door and needs to be replaced
3. a combination of the two listed above
I assume the generator only kicks in at a certain RPM, and only when I'm in gear, am I way off? Is there anything obvious that I'm not considering?
DV
Anyone know where I can get a deal on an inline voltage gauge. I am thinking the voltage problem lies in the generator, or the parts I have added. I bought a cheap little continuity reader (connect to both ends of a wire and a light will illuminate if there is current) and used it on each battery cable with the power turned off. It didnt light up so i assume there is no voltage bleed. I guess there still could be some bleed with the power on, but that might take years for me to single out which splice is faulty.
Concerns-
1. the equipment I added to the wiring scheme is pulling too fast for the generator to keep up (added a new headlight, and led tail lights, brand new HD gell cell)
2. the generator is on its way out the door and needs to be replaced
3. a combination of the two listed above
I assume the generator only kicks in at a certain RPM, and only when I'm in gear, am I way off? Is there anything obvious that I'm not considering?
DV
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You can get a digital multi-meter at Princess Auto or Canadain Tire or Harbor Freight. Important tool to have.
The factory manual contains a series of tests that you can do with the generator. FM available from HD dealer [most $s], catalog companies like J&P Cycles, various eBay sellers [least $s]. Get a parts book also.
Gen is a simple device - easy to remove, dismantle, clean up, put back together. It will be filthy inside. Clean up with spray can electrical contacts cleaner.
The gen puts out 10 amps. This is enough for the headlite, the ignition system, the usual lighting, and perhaps a couple amps extra - not much extra. You should be OK with what you have on there.
The factory manual contains a series of tests that you can do with the generator. FM available from HD dealer [most $s], catalog companies like J&P Cycles, various eBay sellers [least $s]. Get a parts book also.
Gen is a simple device - easy to remove, dismantle, clean up, put back together. It will be filthy inside. Clean up with spray can electrical contacts cleaner.
The gen puts out 10 amps. This is enough for the headlite, the ignition system, the usual lighting, and perhaps a couple amps extra - not much extra. You should be OK with what you have on there.
Last edited by IronMick; Apr 30, 2009 at 07:43 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
From the sounds of it, you need to to a charging system test. The LED tail lamp should draw less amperage than the original, and the headlamp can't make that much difference. As long as you didn't add other extras, i'd bet your charging system isn't functioning properly.