Lotsa pressure
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
Yep. Put it all together . Blew into the fuel inlet with the carb upright and air flowed freely. Inverted carb and blew into fuel inlet and no air bould pass. Hooked up fuel line and I could hear the fuel flow in . I waited, it didn't overflow. I then installed the carb on the bike and it started puking again. Think I'm goin nuts! Hope I'm not dragging you along! I'll take some pics of my fuel system to see if maybe I have too much drop .
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
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From: Houston Texas
Yep. Put it all together . Blew into the fuel inlet with the carb upright and air flowed freely. Inverted carb and blew into fuel inlet and no air bould pass. Hooked up fuel line and I could hear the fuel flow in . I waited, it didn't overflow. I then installed the carb on the bike and it started puking again. Think I'm goin nuts! Hope I'm not dragging you along! I'll take some pics of my fuel system to see if maybe I have too much drop .
Does that make the flow stop?
If it does, then the needle (or clip) is hanging up a bit preventing the needle from seating. That is what is happening I believe.
Let me know what results. If the flow does not stop, something is preventing the needle from closing off.
pg
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
in the first 2 photos : This is what you meant, correct? same way as the instructions I have...I think. Or am I supposed to let the drill rest on the raised portion of the carb body casting?
In the rest of the photos, I was wondering if I have too much downward force from how I routed my fuel lines in order to get a filter in limited space.
In the rest of the photos, I was wondering if I have too much downward force from how I routed my fuel lines in order to get a filter in limited space.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
Brrrr. It's down in the 30's here now! I'll check to see if the float is stuck with a wrench tomorrow. I REALLY appreciate the help! In the last weeks or so I have come to understand how a points ign works, a dry sump oiling system, and I thought I somewhat understood carbs, but have learned today, how much I don't know. Thanks for showing me the physics behind the design. Not just what to change. It is really starting to make sense!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Brrrr. It's down in the 30's here now! I'll check to see if the float is stuck with a wrench tomorrow. I REALLY appreciate the help! In the last weeks or so I have come to understand how a points ign works, a dry sump oiling system, and I thought I somewhat understood carbs, but have learned today, how much I don't know. Thanks for showing me the physics behind the design. Not just what to change. It is really starting to make sense!
Here is your pic with my marked up comments....
My suggestion is to perhaps position the drill bit pointing straight out to the left with the bit on the center line of the carb bowl. Like along the yellow line. Press the drill bit flat against the gasket surface.
The way you have the drill bit in the pic looks like it may not be level. The outside end looks to droop a little.
This will raise the bit up on the end under the float, which you do not want.
You want 3/16 inch, not 7/32 inch. Again, it may be straight and level as it is though, it is hard to tell.
Your fuel line routing looks good to me. Kinda hard to do anything else with the location of the carb, the petcock etc. They did not leave us a lot of room did they?
Let me know how tapping the float chamber with a wrench turns out.
Sometimes this works and you do not have a problem again. Sometimes you have to go back and remove the carb again and open it up to find where it is binding.
One thing, you no doubt have the float level set correctly now, so it must be binding on the needle causing the valve not to close off.
pg
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
Thanks. I'll try the wrench. If it still pukes, I'll pull the carb and check for binding on the pin and re-check float height with the drill turned 90 degrees, re-install and hope for the best! And no , they don't leave alot of room, but what the heck it inspires creativity, right?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Thanks. I'll try the wrench. If it still pukes, I'll pull the carb and check for binding on the pin and re-check float height with the drill turned 90 degrees, re-install and hope for the best! And no , they don't leave alot of room, but what the heck it inspires creativity, right?
You see, that is to me, the great difference in the members on the ironhead site and say the ones on an Evo site.
I am not knocking them, but here we spin wrenches and do not depend on a dealer to fix our problems.
Dealers won't even work on an ironhead, and to me that is a very good thing!
Now the typical Evo type rider...... Well, let's just say he finds getting dealer help is a good thing, and he likes to buy chrome. To each his own.
Just my personal opinion though, nothing else.
pg
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
I agree wholeheartedly. I work on this bike because I WANT to. I Want to learn about carbs and oiling systems. And quite frankly, I enjoy the fact that I have a bike that is different from 'all the other Harleys' . I like my Ironheads and am SOOOOOglad I found this forum! Would have been alot tougher without all of your help.
Last edited by nwpaironhead; Oct 14, 2009 at 05:31 AM. Reason: For fear of offending anyone
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Well, doesn't look like I'll be messin with the bike tonight. Gotta fish a dead animal out of the blower fan in the furnace and fix a rust hole so it doesn't happen again. Yippie. So THAT'S why they call it a squirrel cage!
