Lotsa pressure
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Thanks! Wasnt sure how those keepers were kept. Doesn't look so tough now. As soon as I get new corks, I'll hop on it. Don't know what I'd do without you guys. Probably break alot more stuff, and spend alot more money replacing it! Thanks!
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Summerville,SC
Pushrod Removal
The keepers came off easy aspie. I have started the process of changing the corks, one pushrod at a time. I turned the adjuster screw all the way down aftyer loosening the jam nut then turned the whoe assembly down intil the jam nut contacted the lifter. This created alot of slop of course. But not quite enough to get the pushrod out .So I figured that the lifter must need to be at the bottom of its travel. Very carefully , while makinr sure the pushrod didnt come out of the rocker, I rolled the motor over by hand and discovered that the lifter was already at the bottom of it's travel. Will I have to push the pushrod up, collapsing the valve spring some, in order to get the bottom of the pushrod out of the seat in the adjustment screw?
Here is a pic of me holding the pushrod up as far as it will go without compressing anything , and how much is still in the adjustment screw.
Kind of hard to see, but there's appx. .100 or so of the ball still in there.
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks!
Here is a pic of me holding the pushrod up as far as it will go without compressing anything , and how much is still in the adjustment screw.
Kind of hard to see, but there's appx. .100 or so of the ball still in there.
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
The keepers came off easy aspie. I have started the process of changing the corks, one pushrod at a time. I turned the adjuster screw all the way down aftyer loosening the jam nut then turned the whoe assembly down intil the jam nut contacted the lifter. This created alot of slop of course. But not quite enough to get the pushrod out .So I figured that the lifter must need to be at the bottom of its travel. Very carefully , while makinr sure the pushrod didnt come out of the rocker, I rolled the motor over by hand and discovered that the lifter was already at the bottom of it's travel. Will I have to push the pushrod up, collapsing the valve spring some, in order to get the bottom of the pushrod out of the seat in the adjustment screw?
Here is a pic of me holding the pushrod up as far as it will go without compressing anything , and how much is still in the adjustment screw.
Attachment 74198
Kind of hard to see, but there's appx. .100 or so of the ball still in there.
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks!
Here is a pic of me holding the pushrod up as far as it will go without compressing anything , and how much is still in the adjustment screw.
Attachment 74198
Kind of hard to see, but there's appx. .100 or so of the ball still in there.
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks!
Yes, I am sorry I failed to mention that the pushrods will not come right out. It takes a small amount of compressing the valve spring (as you said) to get them out.
This is the way that set up was designed. A bit more travel on the lifter bolt would have been nice.You are doing good!
pg
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Yes, I am sorry I failed to mention that the pushrods will not come right out. It takes a small amount of compressing the valve spring (as you said) to get them out.
This is the way that set up was designed. A bit more travel on the lifter bolt would have been nice.You are doing good!
pg
This is the way that set up was designed. A bit more travel on the lifter bolt would have been nice.You are doing good!
pg
On the few ironheads that i have worked on the push rods come right out, easily. I "have heard" that if they do not then the valves are receeded into the seats and some work needs to be done there. What do you think?
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Another thing I found upon dis-assembly was that , prior to backing off the jam nuts, I couldn't spin any of the pushrods. At all! I guess this would explain some of the popping, but what could it have damaged? I rolled the pushrods on the bench to see if they were bent as I went and they all looked ok,but...
The pushrods must be adjusted within 50 miles of a top end rebuild. Especially the exhausts will tighten up.
Machine shop guys always talk like thay are the experts, they know it all, and they know best. They do this talk very well. You have to know this before you go in, and you have to put yourself above them and you be the expert. This is difficult to do, especially for a new, inexperienced ironhead owner.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Thanks. I knew nothing about the valve protrusion or the post re-build pushrod adjustment. Unfortunately, neither did the last owner. (my neighbor) Hopefully, things aren't goofed up too bad.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Ewh boy. After dis-assembling and re-assembling all four covers, I found that both of the exhaust pushrods had to be coerced out by pushing up and compressing the valve spring. Both intakes came out easily. I do know that the top end was re-built about 200 miles before the bike was put up. Is it possible that by having the seats and the valves re-ground , it would have this same effect? The valves would travel up beyond the stock stopping position by the amount of material removed from both pieces. Causing the rocker to tip back further. Sound possible? or am I off my rocker?
Another thing I found upon dis-assembly was that , prior to backing off the jam nuts, I couldn't spin any of the pushrods. At all! I guess this would explain some of the popping, but what could it have damaged? I rolled the pushrods on the bench to see if they were bent as I went and they all looked ok,but...
Another thing I found upon dis-assembly was that , prior to backing off the jam nuts, I couldn't spin any of the pushrods. At all! I guess this would explain some of the popping, but what could it have damaged? I rolled the pushrods on the bench to see if they were bent as I went and they all looked ok,but...
I must commend you on your observation. You are exactly correct regarding the valve seat specification.
One does exist and here it is...........
The dimension 'B' value is used to determine if:
(a) valve seat needs to be reground.
(b) valve seat needs to be replaced with a new insert.
If the maximum dimension of B (1.420 inches) is exceeded, the insert needs to be replaced.
The 'gage' mentioned is a special gage (part #96489-63) which is used to check this dimension.
The main thing is you got the pushrods out.
So you will be able to get them back in as well.
Worry about fixing the valve business (if this even needs fixing) later when you have reason to remove the heads.
Regarding the pushrods being tight......... This is why I thought it better to first adjust the pushrods before you ran the engine much.
Good thing! The valve adjustment was too tight if you cannot spin the pushrods. It is going to run better after they are adjusted and then you will be free to address the remaining issues with respect to getting it running smoothly.
Good work!
pg
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
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From: Summerville,SC
Pinion,
Thanks for the print! Did that come from the manual? And thanks for the clarification on the degree of importance at this point. Everything went back together smoothly last night. Tonight I'll get the lash set and hopefully get 'er timed! This s@#t is too much fun!
Mick,
Thanks for the heads up on the areas of caution you mentioned! We'll see how she does. If good...good. If not ...I've got some direction to go on.
Off topic: They just opened Knievel motorsports about 40 min. away. I stopped in last night. I got a tour of the shop and all! WOW!!! Not one Ironhead there though. Kind of a bummer, but still a really cool bunch of guys and a great experience.
Thank you all again so much for your help, advice and words of experience! Now it's out to the garage with me!
Thanks for the print! Did that come from the manual? And thanks for the clarification on the degree of importance at this point. Everything went back together smoothly last night. Tonight I'll get the lash set and hopefully get 'er timed! This s@#t is too much fun!
Mick,
Thanks for the heads up on the areas of caution you mentioned! We'll see how she does. If good...good. If not ...I've got some direction to go on.
Off topic: They just opened Knievel motorsports about 40 min. away. I stopped in last night. I got a tour of the shop and all! WOW!!! Not one Ironhead there though. Kind of a bummer, but still a really cool bunch of guys and a great experience.
Thank you all again so much for your help, advice and words of experience! Now it's out to the garage with me!