Pinion,
Thanks for the print! Did that come from the manual? And thanks for the clarification on the degree of importance at this point. Everything went back together smoothly last night. Tonight I'll get the lash set and hopefully get 'er timed! This s@#t is too much fun!

Yes, right from the manual.
You got what you got regarding the valve seat facing job.
As long as you have good compression and the pushrods went back in you are in good shape. Don't worry about the valve seats.
pg

 

um, when I snug up the jam nut, it pushes the adjuster up just a wee bit. When it does this, do I still want to be able to spin the pushrod with one finger or at this point do I only want to be able to spin it with my thumb and forefinger?
Thanks!

 

Phew! Thanks!

 

Well, I adjusted all 4 pushrods. I have rolled the motor over with the back tire several times watching the lifters and just before one starts to fall, I check the tension on the same pushrod on the opposing cylinder. I am consistently getting the following results:

the pushrod can be turned by pulling across it with one finger.

there is no up and down play

there is no side to side play.

After thinking a bit about my earlier question, I came to the conclusion(which may very well be wrong) that if I have to use my thumb and forefinger to turn the pushrod, there may be enough pressure to start moving the valve. Even if it's only .001 it , it has moved .001. On the other side of the coin, I'm sure there is at least that much movement, if not more, clearance built in to groove in the valve stem where the keeper/lock sets in. Soooo, which one of my cockamamie theories is more likely?

 

Here is part of my pushrod adjust notes ...

6. Check [and adjust if necessary] the push rods:

[a] using the rear wheel rotate the engine so that the rear cylinder exhaust push rod tappet is fully raised. The front cylinder push rod is adjusted correctly if it has no vertical or horizontal play, and you can just rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.

[b] to adjust if needed: hold the adjusting screw in place with a wrench; with another wrench loosen the split locknut. Then turn the adjusting screw using fingers only until the pushrod's ball end is seated in the tappet with a "slight amount of play". Then tighten further as follows:

Option 1: Adjust on the tighter end of the range: There should be no vertical or horizontal play, and you should be just able to rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.

Option 2: Adjust on the looser end of the range: Set the adjusting screw to finger tight so that you cannot turn the push rod between forefinger and thumb. Undo it a tiny bit so that it is just barely loose. Then loosen it 1 "side" for an exhaust or 1/2 "side" for an intake. "Side" refers to one side of the 6-sided adjusting nut.

EDIT: My experience and that of several others who have tried it is that Option 2 is the better and most likely the correct choice.

 

Yes, if you have to use your finger and your thumb to turn the pushrod, the adjustment is too tight.

One finger only to turn the pushrod.
Just like the mock up I did earlier with a screwdriver. That is how you determine the adjustment.
This adjustment is either just right or it is not.
Many times I have had to re-adjust over and over again to get it right.
And having a lot of experience does not make it any easier either.
pg

 

Well, I went over them again just to be sure. All looked well, so I put on the keepers and prepared for take off. Then the float stuck again. Tapped on it with a wrench and all was well. (seems to only do that when the bowl is completely empty) Pulled the plugs, dried 'em off, and prepared again. Three kicks and she fired up. It ran REALLY rich at an idle, and eventually fouled the plugs. All black and almost furry looking. Cleaned them off...again, turned in the idle mixture screw 1/4 turn and it did better. If I try goosing it, it still falls on its face and when I roll on to it a little more (but not much more) gently, it misses and shoots flames out of the pipes. Tomorrow I'm going to turn in the idle mixture screw another 1/8 turn or so and change the plugs and wires. The wires on there are as old as the top end rebuild. (low miles but a lot of time) and those plugs have probably been fouled 30 times now. I never checked the numbers on my main jet. But I think its too big. I have it backed out 4 turns from where the coils on the spring just contact each other.

Is the carb pulling enough air to utilize the main jet when quickly twisting the throttle?

Should I try turning the main jet in?

Would the fact that I have only static timed it cause this?

Could it be my fancy shmancy Taiwanese points?

All in all, it did better than it did before so we are making progress.

Oh, and guess what! no oil leaks! Oops probably shouldn't have said that.

Hopefully some day I'll be able to help someone else like you guys have helped me.

Thanks!

 

I filled in a few of my thoughts regarding your questions..
New plugs and wires will be good to use, but don't expect those to solve the problem.
Richness is the result of an imbalance of the fuel/air mix.
The backfiring may be a timing (lack of proper timing) or an air leak in the manifold O rings. For now let's assume it is a timing issue.
Keep us posted.
pg

 

will do. Thanks!

 

Well, I changed the plugs and wires and turned in the Idle mixture screw 1/4 turn. Then I kicked and kicked and kicked. Pulled the plugs. Bone dry. There's a change! So I replaced the plugs, gave it 2 twists , and vroom! I followed instructions verbatim and now, it starts on the second or third kick...so far.My hopes are pretty high though because it doesn't trip when I blip the throttle at all. No flames out of the pipes either. And get this! I set the Idle at 2000 RPM with the throttle lock, put the timing light on it and the mark is right in the middle! It fluctuates a bit , but uses less than 1/3 of the window. I was having a bit of trouble seeing the rear timing mark though. I could see it but I think most of the time it wasn't visible because the front mark was there. Because both cylinders fire at the same time, right?

One thing I did encounter was having a bit of trouble getting the idle to stay below 1200 RPM's. After looking a little closer , I noticed that my idle speed adjustment screw wasn't touching the ear on the throttle shaft. The butterfly must not be perfectly centered. Oh, well I wanted to pull the carb anyway to inspect the float and everything for any reasons it may be hanging up. I also wanted to lock tight the screws in the throttle and choke plate as well. I'd really rather not suck one of those babies into the intake!

Something else that may be noteworthy. In light of pushrod adjustment last night , I was listening extra close for lifter clatter or the pushrods bouncing around between the rockers and lifter. I heard something possibly similar. Put my ear to the covers and then realized that it was coming from inside the carb. I think what I was hearing was the valves closing. Could this be? I didn't hear it before the adjustment. I think I'm glad I hear it. Little concerned as well.

Thanks again for all the help. Otherwise , I may have given in, heeded all the locals advice and taken it out to Roberson's ( a shop about 45 min. away that works on mainly shovels). Then the next time I had an issue, I'd have to load it up and take it back again, that is if they would even work on an Ironhead. The help and in depth explanations are truly priceless. They have made me understand and appreciate this old bike even more. As I said before, it's all starting to make sense.