Originally Posted by nwpaironhead

it starts on the second or third kick...so far. That's welcome news!

My hopes are pretty high though because it doesn't trip when I blip the throttle at all. No flames out of the pipes either. More good news!
And get this! I set the Idle at 2000 RPM with the throttle lock, put the timing light on it and the mark is right in the middle! It fluctuates a bit , but uses less than 1/3 of the window. You have the timing nailed down perfectly! Actually as long as the mark shows up anywhere in the hole....that is close enough. I guess the backfiring was the timing afterall. Next time you will know what to look at if it starts again.

I was having a bit of trouble seeing the rear timing mark though. I could see it but I think most of the time it wasn't visible because the front mark was there. Because both cylinders fire at the same time, right? Yes, both fire at the same time. Only the cylinder that is on compression stroke ignites. The other cylinder on exhaust stroke just gets a 'waste spark.'

One thing I did encounter was having a bit of trouble getting the idle to stay below 1200 RPM's. After looking a little closer , I noticed that my idle speed adjustment screw wasn't touching the ear on the throttle shaft. The butterfly must not be perfectly centered. That is exactly correct. Something is not allowing the butterfly to fully close and that results in an overly fast idle speed. It does not take much either.
Another member here on the forum recently asked the same question about an S&S carb. I know almost nothing about an S&S myself, but I suggested he look at his butterfly as the reason for his fast idle speed.
Oh, well I wanted to pull the carb anyway to inspect the float and everything for any reasons it may be hanging up. I also wanted to lock tight the screws in the throttle and choke plate as well. I'd really rather not suck one of those babies into the intake!

Something else that may be noteworthy. In light of pushrod adjustment last night , I was listening extra close for lifter clatter or the pushrods bouncing around between the rockers and lifter. I heard something possibly similar. Put my ear to the covers and then realized that it was coming from inside the carb. I think what I was hearing was the valves closing. Could this be? I didn't hear it before the adjustment. I think I'm glad I hear it. Little concerned as well. Sure, it may be the sound of the valves closing. There is nothing but a tunnel containing an air/fuel mix between the intake valve and the carb venturi, and that manifold is short.

As you know, with solid lifters noise is better than quiet. Quiet means things are too tight which leaves valves open. Noise means valves are fully closing which is a good thing.

Thanks again for all the help. Otherwise , I may have given in, heeded all the locals advice and taken it out to Roberson's ( a shop about 45 min. away that works on mainly shovels). Then the next time I had an issue, I'd have to load it up and take it back again, that is if they would even work on an Ironhead. The help and in depth explanations are truly priceless. They have made me understand and appreciate this old bike even more. As I said before, it's all starting to make sense.

Originally Posted by nwpaironhead

Thanks for your honesty. I'll re-read the information I've found on the topic so far. And maybe... after 100 or so posts to this one... start a new thread. Whatta ya think , bout time. We've covered A LOT of information. Thanks!

Originally Posted by nwpaironhead

Yep, I see it now. In my haste, I nissed that last night. If I notice any brake fade, I will dis-assemble front braking system entirely. Clean everything thoroughly. Then re-assemble and use the proper brake fluid for this application. Haste makes waste.oh well,live and learn.
Thanks!