Bike started backfiring then took a dump
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey,FL
I saw a complete set up on ebay with the advance weights and springs, retaining bolt, points plate, screws, condenser, points and cover gasket for $35.00 new in box. I bought a spare used set a couple of weeks off of there for $23.00 and it included a chrome points cover.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 198
Likes: 4
From: Texas
Yeah sucks, I don't shop on ebay. I'm a cash in hand C.O.D. kinda guy... (my credit sucks) Maybe I will evolve someday? Appreciate it tho good lookin out! Word is tho most of that stuff for points on ebay and elsewhere is junk? Not a fact. Jus what I heard.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 198
Likes: 4
From: Texas
HELL YEAH SHES UP AND RUNNING GREAT!! I got two Contact sets ( like for a riding lawn mower) @ O'riely auto parts for about 8 bucks and used the two springs out of the kits to replace my old ones! Worked like magic! Bike is running GREAT! 
Gotta roll! L8r yall 
Gotta roll! L8r yall
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 198
Likes: 4
From: Texas
Any advice on what to do when the center hold down bolt that threads into the (crank?/flywheel bolt?) snaps off? Guessing the only way to get it out is by drilling it out and then using a re-threader...? Also is #10-24 the right size/thread I should drill & tap it for?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 865
From: Sheboygan, WI
Most of the time you can get the screw out pretty easily by using a left hand drill. I can't tell you for sure what the thread is for sure, but for some reason 12-28 sticks out in my head.
Edit: that is, if you're talking about the bolt that holds the ignition rotor onto your camshaft
Edit: that is, if you're talking about the bolt that holds the ignition rotor onto your camshaft
Last edited by d_slat; Apr 8, 2010 at 09:10 AM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 198
Likes: 4
From: Texas
For that "stripped bolt", it is probably the threads in the hole that are stripped. This is a common problem. The bolt is steel, the hole is aluminum; a little too tight and it is wrecked.
There is the standoff or stud [32601-78] and then there is the cover screw. Usually it is the threads in the hole for the standoff that get stripped. If so then put a helicoil in the hole; when you install the standoff use a lockwasher, and make it just tight enough to flatten the lockwasher - no tighter!
Sometimes the standoff breaks, but you can easily get replacements.
The aftermarket points components are nortorously bad. Very often they quite simple will not work. Here is a tutorial with pics on another forum ...
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=317401
There is the standoff or stud [32601-78] and then there is the cover screw. Usually it is the threads in the hole for the standoff that get stripped. If so then put a helicoil in the hole; when you install the standoff use a lockwasher, and make it just tight enough to flatten the lockwasher - no tighter!
Sometimes the standoff breaks, but you can easily get replacements.
The aftermarket points components are nortorously bad. Very often they quite simple will not work. Here is a tutorial with pics on another forum ...
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=317401
Just thought I'd clarify for others; the stock spec for the points assembly hold down bolt is in fact [hex headed - 2'inch in length - type #10-32 thread] IronMick earlier suggest by far the best solution to fix this problem FIX STRIPPED THREADS USING A HELI COIL INSERT.
Anyone know if there's any spacers/washers or anything thats supposed to be placed under the points weights?
A tip: If you decide to fab your own springs and such. Never leave anything protruding out past the highest point located on the flywheel weights! Resting flush just below this point is ideal. Also good to keep in mind this assembly is rotating harmoniously w/or the speed of your RPM. Anything that creates a condition something could catch/snag onto anything (part of a spring for example) ur entering a world of sh$t..
On a sadder note.. I'm finding the HELI COIL is possibly the ONLY solution! I'll soon confirm or deny this as I've been trying varying methods so far with little success. If I could afford the 40$ heli coil kit I'd prolly be riding right now.. Aside from money, good judgment and patience aren't abundant in my piggy bank either.
To be continued
Last edited by Ironkidzsled; Apr 14, 2010 at 01:43 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 195
Likes: 4
From: Washington
If it is just for a cover bolt you can try I tjink it is made by permatex ? a thread repair kit it is a epoxy and a releas agent, put the epoxy in the hole put the releas agent on bolt and screw bolt in when dry unscrew bolt and you have threads in the hole. Used it once years ago and it worked good
I have used the Permatex thread repair kit also - for tail light and turn signal mounts, and for carb mounts. Worked well in all cases. Yes, not for parts requiring high strength.
I have always got an indie mechanic to install the helicoils. Used them on a generator, a timing hole [while cases were split], and ignition module standoff holes.
I have always got an indie mechanic to install the helicoils. Used them on a generator, a timing hole [while cases were split], and ignition module standoff holes.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Athens, GA
Sometimes paying someone else to do the work is less expensive than buying the tool, which will be used infrequently, and doing the job yourself. Time-sert thread repair comes to mind as an example.
I am guessing you got the snapped bolt out?
I am guessing you got the snapped bolt out?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 865
From: Sheboygan, WI
uh, as far as the helicoil goes, if you in fact have a stripped out timer COVER bolt, that is probably the required fix. However, from what I have read, this is not the case (correct me if i'm wrong.) If in fact the bolt in question is the one that holds your points cam to the camshaft, it threads into the camshaft itself, which is definitely not aluminum and soft. Chances are, unless you pulled a boner move and cross-threaded the bolt into the hole, the threads inside are perfectly fine and all you have to do is get the old one out without buggering up the threads. To do this I have used several methods in the past. I have had more than one occasion that I was able to turn the broken bolt out with just a small slotted screwdriver (one of the small precision ones with a new tip works great.) If it's stuck just a hair tighter than this, you can use a small drill bit and drill into the center of the bolt(you probably won't have to go very far) and use a small extractor, or if you don't have one I have used small torx bits as extractors on many occasions. Also, now that I think of it, every one of these i've had broken off was on a shovelhead or an evo, and they were 10-32, not 12-28. Good luck!