well, i finally got the repair manual for my 81 xlh1000, and am starting to dig in. i guess my 1st question would be on adjusting the pushrods(tappet). i understand what the book is telling me to do(also how iron mick says to do it) but where im confused right from the beginning, is how do you make sure the valve is closed on the one you are working on?(unlike a car with the valve cover off, you can see the exhaust valve up and the other down by the springs opposing each other)) how do i tell on the bike? i havent pulled the tubes or anything till i get the info on this. gonna go out know and do the 1st primary chain adjustment on it in 20 some years(dump the oil 1st or after? it is 20 years old also) and adjust the clutch the properway(thru the drain hole as per manual) and see if it quits slipping under hard acceleration(it will wind up like a rubberband for about 3 seconds and shoots you off like a rocket). thanks guys. p.s the homemade baffles and the permatex idea worked good(thanks mick)

 

To address your tappet question:

• look at the opposite cylinder / valve. Once this one is OPEN (aka this tappet is all the way up), then the valve you're working on will be in the closed position.
• be sure you're looking at intake valve vs intake valve & exhaust valve vs exhaust valve (aka don't compare intake valve on one cylinder & exhaust valve on the opposite cylinder)

A suggestion re: your primary chain cover:

• if you can afford a little extra down time, I'd suggest removing the primary chain cover. After 20+ years, heaven only knows what you'll find in there...... at a minimum, you'll want to clean out the metal filings on the inside / bottom of your chain case. Over time, my '71 will accumulate a lot there, so your '81 will probably be similar.

 

thanks for the reply. thought i would check out the drain plug 1st off (should be magnatized right?) and see what i have on the plug. i havent owned the bike the whole time. 1 other family had it 1st(dad&son) 24,000 on the bike. iron mick had some great answers for me also as i have been going thru it a little at a time. as far as tools go, can you point me in the right direction for the plug removal tool(looks like a huge screwdriver slot) maybe could get it at a auto parts store? cant do much till i get the tool. any suggestions appreciated. thanks

 

i dont think you will find a tool at a parts store to remove that plug, i made one from a pc of 1/4" x 2" flat steel, cut it to about 3" long and ground the curve in the end to match the plug, i just hold it with a pair of vice grips

 

Drain the primary oil first; into a measured container to see how much there is. Should be 1.5 pints, 24 oz.

Then add in some new. I would use only the new HD Formula+ product. People may suggest various alternatives including auto transmision oil. But best to get everything working then experiment if you wish.

Then do the clutch adjustment. BTW, that hole you adjust the ckutch thru is not a drain hole; it is the clutch adjustment access hole. Drain is on the bottom. Add thru the primary chain inspection hole.

 

To answer the question I think you are asking about how to tell if the valves are closed / down...

After you remove the clip the manual tells you to remove (which can, admittedly, be slightly horrifying to do with a screwdriver. It can take a bit of force. A buddy with a steady hand, and a small dentist's pick are great tools here) - you will be able to pull the tube up / down to reveal the pushrod. If you lift the base, you can see that actual rod, and as you push the bike (fourth gear is good for this, removing the plugs can't hurt) you can actually see them move.

Well, if you have a giant mirror. A friend is indispensable here. Preferably a sharp one who understands how valves work, and can tell when they are closed =) You can do it yourself, too, of course (especially if you can raise the rear wheel) - but for a poor man's way out, you can just push the bike.

I think this answered your question some, yes? Valve is ultimately closed when it's at its lowest point - Mick and the manual have you covered from here.

Have fun!


- Al

 

rindy, maybe this pic will help with the terminology on your primary case.

 

thanks guys, as usual, a great help. i think i have it right. drain all fluid from bottom drain plug. fill thru the primary chain plug until it runs out of the clutch release plug. is it easier to adjust the primary chain(book says about 5/8th to 7/8ths play at the tightest point, just kind of guestimate as you cant get anything in there to measure?) and the clutch release while there is no fluids in it? previous owner said a guy tried to adjust the clutch just at the cable at the cover, and he didnt like the way the clutch was, so they put it back where it was. the clutch releases about 1/4" from being all the way out on the handle, and no 1/16th inch of play at the handle. maybe i will get lucky and have a few adjustments left in it. it doesnt slip at take off or normal acceleration. if at 55mph i grab a handfull to pass a car it will "windup" for about 2-3 seconds and then catapolt you forward. im hoping tomorrow when i go to the harley dealer ill be able to buy the inspection plug tool, 50wt(4quarts), hd formula+ trans fluid. local parts stores dont even carry the engine oil. they have 20/50 but no straight 50 wt. some have said on here i could use 60 wt. engine oil(store doesnt have that either)
gonna tackle this stuff 1st, then the pushrods. thanks agian guys!

 

no.... not quite Look for an oil leveling screw...... level your m/c then fill 'til it runs out the oil leveling screw hole...... as Mick suggested, about 24oz should do it.

I've updated the pic to show where to find the oil leveling screw.

 

thanks, didnt see that in the manual when i browsed thru it. i will look for the other plug!