I removed mine years ago, shaft and all. The plugs fouled when using it, and since I live in the Sunny South , I didn't really need it anyway. A couple squirts from the accelerator pump and hit the starter button is all it takes...well, maybe a couple times when cold and it starts.

 

I just came back from about an hour and a half ride. No change in the way it runs. Still occasionally pops back through the carb, mostly at low speeds or just coming off idle but it will do it at a steady highway speed too. Still has a bad hesitation with a blip of the throttle or if you crank it open without rolling into it. It always feels sluggish, it's not crisp and responsive like it should be.
Something that I keep forgetting to mention is that the exhaust pipe off the front cylinder is quickly discoloring while the rear cylinder pipe still looks like new. These are new pipes with less than 1,500 miles on them. I've always thought that the front cylinder exhaust note sounded "hollow" or at least different than the rear which really has a nice strong thump to it. Might just be the nature of the beast, just thought I'd throw that out there.
The choke isn't a big deal. The cable in the off position holds it open while riding and I can still reach behind the air cleaner with my finger to close it for cold starting like I did this morning when I left.
I haven't had any part of the engine apart other than the accelerator pump. Remember, this was supposed to have an 1150 kit put in it with low miles when I bought it. I seriously doubt that now. Plus, you id'd the flywheels for me as stock.
It is an '83 with electronic ignition.

 

Did you put the new intake bands on it yet? Sounds like the front one may be leaking. Also, are you running drag pipes? It's hard to get a set of unbaffled drags to run right - a little backpressure usually smooths out the running and adds some of your torque back. Could be that the valves are out of adjustment, too.

 

I think it is time for two things:

1. Check for intake and exhaust leaks [see notes following; best to use propane, unlit of course]
2. Clean the carb

If these do not solve the problem next would be checking the ignition timing.

Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests

You cannot get a good tuneup if there are intake leaks or exhaust leaks.

1. Check for Intake Leaks

With the engine idling spray propane gas or WD-40 around the carb/intake/cylinder head joints. Propane is best because it leaves no mess, and is most easily sucked in thru leaks. WD-40 is said to work well because it has very fine spray droplets. Be careful to not allow any of either to get sucked in thru the A/C as this will invalidate the results.

Any change in engine RPM is a leak which must be fixed.

EDIT: Experience is that this procedure will identify larger intake leaks, but it may miss very small leaks that also must be fixed. And that propane is definetly the better choice.

2. Check for Exhaust Leaks

Pour about 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes. Run the engine at idle. You will get lots of smoke for about 5 minutes.

All smoke should come from the ends of the exhaust pipes/mufflers. Any other is a leak which must be fixed.

 

Waiting on the new intake bands to appear in my mailbox. Yeah I'm running drag pipes with lollipops in them. Runs much better with the lollipops vs nothing in them at all.
Maybe with some luck the bands will come in Saturday and I can rebuild the carb, put the new bands on, check the timing and run the valves. Yeah right. Who am I trying to kid? I don't have time to do all that..........one thing at a time I guess.

 

Our most important tools:
1. factory service manual
2. factory parts catalog
3. patience

It is important when problem solving these machines to put all ideas of riding aside and to focus on the problem solving.