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1962/197X build

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Old May 19, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #11  
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Well, I did some work today anyways, despite wanting to spend time with the lady.

I'm taking it over to my friends house, so he can weld up that nasty slot that was cut in the case for some odd reason. That should take care of that.

Now for the worst hit on my pocketbook as of yet -

I need to find an entire clutch assembly for this thing. I'm talking....everything. the only thing that's there on that side of the primary - is the shaft coming out of the transmission....it's naked. No parts of this sort are in my bin of bins - so honestly - would it be best to look aftermarket, or just look for someone's dead sporty that I can rob this off of? Anyone out there got these pieces that they're willing to part with for next to nothing? I don't want to pay joe-schmoe a buncha money for these parts if I can just give someone on this board, that's been more than willing to answer my questions, some cash for their extras.

Thanks in advance!
JB
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 11:06 PM
  #12  
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next update:

I have been hunting for a good looking, decent priced primary clutch assembly for this '73 xlch engine. I found one, and upon close inspection - I don't want it. the clutch basket was on crack in several areas (looked like stress fractures on all the fingers, plus it was notched reeeeally badly - on top of the 300 bucks he wanted for it ..... nah - I'll look elsewhere). So - talked to a friend of mine in my sober circle of friends - and I cannot believe it - I found a gent that's a Midwest dealer. All parts for cost, and freight....nothing more. Got the clutch stuff on order, new wheels on order, hardtail section arrived today at his house/shop, and it's coming together nicely now. I'm on the road as we speak with work, but you better believe that next weekend - there's gonna be some forward motion on this ride.

Engine - primary stuff, weld up that slit in the case, put tranny back together (order new shift fork rod), seal it all up, and put it in the frame. Wire up the necessary components that I've been lent to at least make sure it fires up.

frame - strip it down! also blasting the lower forktubes, as they have a nasty hue of "blue" on them...., install hardtail, put old wheels on it just to roll it around the shop, weld up the holes I don't need that have been drilled in the frame/grind down to make smooth/primer over them to prevent rust.

I at least want to make sure the engine runs, before taking this any further. If I don't have a solid powerplant - then I'd like to find out before getting the whole damn thing together just to be disappointed with a dead engine.

Some pics I took today of the "shop"...heh!

the project as it stands....grrr.....



a few pics of the shop and the bikes it houses:


T's sporty:


Ol' Blue:


The Serpent, a chopper my buddy built here in this garage:

look at that paint....snakeskin...weird eh...?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #13  
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J.B., Its really nice to see pictures! Cool when folks post them.
Something to watch for installing Your engine,most of these Ironheads motor mounts are cracked,everyone Ive ran across was,some are still ok to run tho..but if You can get one,the Pingle brand has a great reputation.They are about 100.00
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #14  
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when you say "motor mounts" - are you talking about the cast one on the rear of the engine, or the fronts that attach at the lower front portion, or the top mounts? The mounts themselves, or the engine portion where they attach to the actual cases?

And ofcourse the pictures are there! I'll be adding every picture I take of this thing during it's transformation from ol' beater that's rusting away - to whatever I turn it into...heh! Thanks though!

JB
 
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:45 AM
  #15  
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Sorry bout that..Its the rear cast one. Ive not had any problems with the front brackets or top mount.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 05:31 AM
  #16  
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Yes, lots of stories about the rear mount cracking ... that "they all" do it; that less chance of cracking if you balance the crank; that it does not really matter; that you have to split the cases to access it; that there is no need to fix it unless the cases are being split for some other reason; that the Pingle is the best choice.

If you install following some procedure you no longer need to split the cases to remove it; something about using the Pingle, or replacing the studs with bolts, or whatever.

Some believe that it is better to let it crack, that if you install a stronger one the cases will crack; but this is not a widely held belief.

No experience with this myself; these are just my recollections from old posts.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #17  
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That cut-out section from the L/H case may be the result of a primary chain separation...If you got a good source for a patch-up, do it! You are wise to split the cases and do an inspection of what you have..Those 'ol Ironheads were usually set up "loose" for endplay between the rear rod and flywheel thrust washers...I learned the hard way to set it up loose to allow the rods to float side-to-side a small amount for tolerance differences with new parts being installed...I set up by bottom-end (the second time) at .030" end play between the rear rod and flywheel thrust washers and it was quieter!!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:09 PM
  #18  
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update:

I put in a little work tonight to just mock up the hardtail section, and I must say - that HIH hardtail is one VERY slick piece of engineering. Fit was spot-on, the welds look extremely well performed, and it's just smoooooth lookin!





Just a few pics from today's venture. Ofcourse - now I need to raise the ***-end of it....I can't have only like....1.5 inches between my frame and the ground. Speaking of - Anyone have an old 18" rear wheel they want to part with for next to nothing? I don't care about finish - as I'm going to probably blast and pcoat it black afterall.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #19  
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was just thinking -

What ya'll think a set of 14-16" apes would look like on that? Any photoshop wizards out there that could 'fake' a set of them on it?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:29 AM
  #20  
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your rear looks perfect, there isnt any suspension to compensate for, you just need to raise the front,extend fork tubes 2-4 inches, so it doesnt bottom out
 
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