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72 xlch

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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 06:13 PM
  #1  
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Default 72 xlch

Hi folks,

First time here. I'm usually in the softail section because i have a softail. i was looking for a springer for my bike on ebay today and i found this 72 sporty for sale, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-...#ht_500wt_1182 .I don't know alot about ironheads or sportsters for that matter. i was hoping someone could take a look at the pictures and tell me there are serious problems with the bike, like it's a 63 engine in a 74 frame. i really don't want to buy this bike but it looks so f***ing cool and it's only an hour away from me.

seriously, the bike does look clean for a 38 yr old bike but it hasn't been started in 20 years and it doesn't start now. hopefully it just needs a carb cleaning and some new plugs. what should i look for when i go see it? any help would be much appreciated, thank you.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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63 engine in a 74 frame and it is a 72? Does it not have to be a 74, as all bikes after about 70 are titled by the frame VIN? The engine VIN should be on the left side, beneath the cylinders. If it is a Harley frame that has had the hardtail welded on then the frame VIN should be on the right side in front of the tank.

I suppose that if it is an aftermarket frame then there would be no VIN and perhaps it was out together in 72?

Anyway, #1 for these bikes is to ensure that there is no problem with the title.

It should be worth more than a basket case as it is all together so all the parts should be there.

It is XLCH so it is kick only; you should read up on these bikes before going for it. Google "sportster knee" and see what you find.

Hard to say about the price. Asking $1800 sounds like he is looking for $1500. Could be a reasonable price.

Can't tell from the pics if there are serious problems. Anything that you can see is easily fixed. Serious problems won't show up until you try to start it or get it running.

Ask here before you try to start it. There is a list of stuff to do first for a bike that has not been run for many years; else it gets wrecked in the trying.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Check for oil and primary oil. kick it through a few times. Feel if it is tight. Check the compression if you can. Roll it up through the gears to see that they all engage and feel tight.

I wouldn't pay $1800 for a bike that hasn't run for 20yrs. You could be looking at a total rebuild. Gaskets, corks and o-ring seals may be dried out...not to mention the seal between the bottom cases.

Thats assuming everything was in good working order when it was parked...and why would it be parked for 20yrs if everything was in good working order---keep that in mind.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:06 AM
  #4  
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i'll look for the vin when i check it out. if it is an aftermarket frame that would really lower the value for me. i emailed him last night asking why he has sat for 20 years, he hasn't gotten back to me yet. i'm sure there is a logical explanation. hopefully, he'll get back to me today and I'll take a look during the week. i probably wouldn't pay more than 1100 if everything looks good.

thanks for the replies.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:03 AM
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here's the reply i got from seller,

i threw a chain and it ripped a hole through the oil tank and i almost wiped out, bike was shut down before all oil dripped out. I pushed it home uphill for about a mile and i replaced oil tank twice before i got one i liked , i started cleaning it up and it sat.

i think i'm probably going to pass on this one.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #6  
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Wow...if there is any truth to that, he is one lucky SOB.

I'd still be inclined to check it out, and the title and throw a low-ball offer at him just to try and put it in the garage and do a rebuild.

I think a full rebuild every twenty years is a good idea anyway. I just redid mine, again, and the seal between the bottom cases was done and just fell apart....it could have just as easily been on the road when it happened.

s
 

Last edited by scottfisher; Dec 7, 2010 at 07:43 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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i'll probably go take a look at it anyway. i'm just worried that engine might be seized from the oil loss and if that's the case, i think i would need to replace the cylinders and i have read that the 71 cylinders are different from the other years so getting new ones might prove difficult. how would i be able to tell if the engine was seized?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gscully
... how would i be able to tell if the engine was seized?
I am not experienced at this so there may be other comments following.

I would put an ounce or so of oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes, then leave the spark plugs out. With the rear wheel off the ground shift the transmission into 1st gear, rotate the rear wheel until it clicks; repeat for each gear until you get into 4th.

Now attempt to rotate the engine using the rear wheel. It should be difficult, but not impossible.

Optional ... shining a flashlight into the spark plug hole you will see the piston when it gets to the top of the cylinder. You won't see much, and it is normal for it to have a black carbon deposit.

If in fact the engine is seized you would want to pour some oil or solvent or whatever into the cylinder and let it soak overnight; but first consult with others who have more experience than do i.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 07:11 AM
  #9  
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It seems to be a different year in every post....

63 engine, 74 frame, 72 xlch, 71 cylinders....you have me wondering too...

If it is seized, you will know...it won`t move.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #10  
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I looked at the ad and that engine is not a 63. It is most likely a 72 if it is a 1000 cc. The neck of the frame appears to have flat stock welded to reinforce, which means its an after market frame. The photos are not real clear and my eyesight ain't what it used to be. Get the numbers from the motor and the frame.

I just bought a 63 so this I know. I don't have the experience of most of these guys like Ironmick and PG, but that engine is not a 63. If it has a 63 engine number, I would be very careful??
 
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