I think im my case is a term that just stuck, it is not used by me as disrespectfull but actually in reverance, like the kid that came over
while i was gassing up the other day and asked me ( hey what kind of old bike is that? is it a Harley? ) if challenged ( only once ) i respond
how many vehicles do you know that are this old and stil running out there, this guy told me about how reliable newer bikes are in general,
i told him yes, most people cant even begin to handle anything that they have to maintain themselves, i like being an individual and am not
challenged by having to maintain something if its pleasing to me.

In a tribal system age ( elders, old people ) are respected as having acquired knowledge and experience to lead, they are the teachers, in
a way you could say the forum here is tribal, many of us including me come here for acquiring knowledge and finding the way, and at the
same time sharing with others what we love to do.

In a Specialized Mustang repair shop near me there is the ( old guy ) that everyone goes to when they need 9" diferential work, then there
is the ( old mexican guy ) in bellaire that is going to reupholster my seat back like original, and the ( old guy that installs tile ). in all this
instances they are refered to in that manner out of reverance, as the ones to go to people.

My hopes are that one day i will have membership in that revered group, the old go to person group.

 

I hope for the same thing!!(for me though)

I feel the same way about my old stuff and why I keep it around and still running (despite my wifes horror regarding the truck). Besides, it is cheaper to keep it running than to replace it with new and once the new stuff starts to get older it is not as easy to solve problems. My wifes honda is a 2003 and I have a scanner to assist me with issues but it is more expensive replacing sensors etc, than tuning carbs.

Generally, people rarely guess my bikes age correctly...I keep it tuned and I know it well, so, it starts easily...with the kicker.

I think I'm just cheap. hahaha



Ironmick is the elder here....he has my respect. I'm catching up though!!

 

Cheap... not by a long shot, if the photo on the avatar is your bike then i see a frame modification, i think we have wide front trees, i see some chrome and am sure many other things i cant see.

Old School... yes that would fit the profile, its more like i prefer this, i know what i want, it pleases my needs.

 

Uuhhh, wait a sec here what do you mean you do not catch up in age until i am like, you know, like dead, eh.

 

ha ha ha ha....

 

1. Adjust P/rods.
2. Compression check.(How can you possibly set the idle, when for all you know you have a leaking valve?)
3. Check Ignition timing(assuming comp check was good).
4. LAST. Adjust carby.

If you do anything other than follow my sequence(when dealing with the 4 mentioned by Mick), you have a rock for a brain.

 

Thanks for this and other guides on how to.

I think Mick takes in to consideration that we ( all of us giving input ) are doing the repairs as if it was a hobby project, i clearly see the sequence that you are describing as the way to handle diacgnostic if i was in a shop enviroment, but it was actually I that had ( indeed ) a rock for brains and had a complete mindset that it was all on the carb.

And the carb had one major issue that was not found by me initially ( gasket flange leak ) due to the fact that i wanted to rebuild the thing anyway, but every one of you told me to get W40 or other methods and spray all over the area for signs of changes in machine idle when i do it, and boy would it have shown a change in idle,BIG ONE, but I wanted to clean it and at the same time write off any issues.

I can clearly see that why adjust a carb? when compression is so low you can roll the bike around on first gear, engine off all over the shop effortlessly, but the question is, will it deter me from adjusting the carb after that?, answer is no, because i want to play with it while i get the parts for doing a head job and cylinder change.

I think i will adjust the pushrods today, i dont have the sightglass tool, it will come in later this week, for checking timing, and i have not purchased a jack for getting the rear wheel off the ground to easyer adjust time, but here is what i will do. I will take the chain sprocket cover off and put my ratchet with long handle on it while it has no plugs, then i should be able to rotate the engine with very little effort so i can adjust them solids and their push rods.

I think the procedure you are giving me is CORRECT, no dispute, but am sure everything that has to be checked will be this week, that is another luxury i have at this point, available time. thank you for pointing this out to me, i agree that at times i need to be reminded that i should not be such an IRONHEAD and do things at least in the procedure they should be done.

Thank you.

 

Aahh, an important technical improvement in my crippled sequence. Thank you. I am unlcear tho on how the rock for a brain comment contributes in a positive way to the technical/sociological aspects of this forum.

 

Today i had only a little time to visit with my girl, so what i did had to be quick.

I put a new set of plugs just for the heck of it, no change on idle.

I did a compression check, (i dont want to mess up how to check it ) so i check cylinder number 1 first, then i checked cylinder number 2.
Both came in dead on 120 psi.

I hugged her and said see you later, then went on to do other things.

For the smart asses out there, yes am refering to the bike. LOL.....

 

Compression check must be done with warmed up engine to be accurate. Warmed up your numbers will be much higher. 120 is minimum but ok for warm engine.