Ok i got the bike running today, JB WELD did an outstanding job on the hair line crack on the fuel bowl.

new 3/8 16 bolts have everything tight on the intake.

MICK IS RIGHT ON NOT NEEDING A GASKET SET, the small o-rings sre stil doing their job, i think the carb
was rebuild by someone not too long ago, i just want to talk to the animal about his unability to choose
the right screwdrivers, even the main jet was damaged on the slott by a screw driver.

Progress

Idle does not want to go under 1,000 RPM. SAME AS BEFORE

The bike runs stronger and more crisp than before carburetor rebuild. INTAKE LEAK FIXED

Engine is more responsive to throttle.

did not fart or burp back at me. INTAKE LEAK FIXED

Next Up.

I am done with the carb for now, I think getting that idle controled has to be ON ENGINE TIMING, by idle controled what im trying to get
is that catchum... catchum... catchum... idle of the motor.

any ideas?

please remenber that this is my time killing and enjoy hobby time working on the bike, so working on the carb solved some problems, but i wanted to do it anyhow, heck it looks so much cleaner!!!

 

please remind me why it doesn't idle below 1000rpm. does it stall? what was the problem with that? I forget.

Mine will slow right down to a slow potato...potato...potato, but, the generator runs too slow then and the lights quit.

 

It will not and it will stall.

and it idles like it used to before, i dont give a crap about the generator, yes, at about 1,000 RPM the gen light comes on a little, but i dont care.

I WANT MY POTATO... POTATO...POTATO...


I have not checked the timing, i will tomorrow, i think that could have something to do with it being that it is a 2 cylinder motor.

 

You might just as well pull the whole works out of the timer hole and check the mechanical advance unit, good chance there will be something wrong there too.

 

big guy am lost with this set of instructions?

am looking at the book for timing, or setting it. remember am new to this motors and finding out how it works, so am slow, the bike is an 81

 

It is a 1981. Does it have the original electronic ignition? or has it been changed to points? or to some other EI such as Hi-4 or Ultima or whatever?

Do you have the HD factory service manual 99484-85?

 

It is a 1981

I took off the cover and see no points, so its stock electronic

dont see any other boxes, we are dealing with stock

yes i will be reading from part no. 99484-85 service manual

am reading 7-11 figure 7-9 advance timing and how to check it

looks like my car timing light does not work, have to find out about harleys HD-96295-65 LIGHT

Update 12:41 AM Houston time, bought the site glass on e-bay for future use.


I think Scott said something about using a hose on the hole not to get oil all over

 

I have just listened to the OP bike idling.
It really is not as healthy as you are making out.
It was definitely struggling. It is being propped up by additional idle speed.
He only revved it the one time, but it appeared to have an off idle glitch.


It needs attention to either the idle mixture screw adjustment, or, as Mick suggested, a good clean out as well.

The book says that we should not screw with the idle mixture screw, but if am
right about that, and its capped at the factory, then someone has been playing
with mine, because the cap is not on it, and i took it out and cleaned it
( being sure to put it back the same amount of screw driver turns ) am i correct? if so how do i make adjustment?
this cpould be important.


I would be reviewing the pilot jet sizing.
It can certainly have a stronger more consistent idle than that.
Check timing, leads and plugs.

 

The pilot jet is responsible for feeding the engine through to midrange.
It is a fixed jet. Dependent on the engine set-up, there can be a variance of the optimum size of the jet, to meet engine needs.
This variation is also true for a smooth idle. So that off idle requirements can be met, without negatively affecting the idle requirements, adjustability is allowed for in the form of the idle mixture screw. This is in combination with the idle air bleed, which itself is sometimes the adjustable part, or even both on some makes of carbies.

As you screw the the adjuster in, the pointy end progresses further into the metering orifice, and reduces the flow.
As you turn it out, more flow.
The end of the adjuster is quite fine, so whenever it is being turned all the way until it seats, this must be done GENTLY.

If you have the stock ign, we could possibly discount that for a minute, unless you see obvious evidence in the timing area that things have been messed with(like marks on the plate where the screws go, showing the plate has been moved).
You have solid lifters.
If any are tight, idle will be difficult.
I would....
Perform a compression test.
Check the valve adjustment.
Check the timing.
Check the plugs and leads.
Carby is now clean, so turn screw in slowly.
Is it worse? Then turn out slowly.
It really should find a happy spot, even if the happy spot is halfway between "cut-out" both ways.
I assume fuel is fresh.
This would be a good start.
It might go deeper, but this may suffice.
Compression, spark, fuel.
Lesson one, on day one, for every beginner.

 

Your car timing light should work. Is it a dial back type? I find it much more convenient to use this type as i can check to see exactly where the timing is set without changing it.

You have to be careful with the clear plastic timing hole plugs - if you screw it in too far it will break from contact with the flywheel. My experience with them is that they get oil smeared and i cannot see thru. Some guys do have success with them.

I use a piece of 3/8" ID oil line hose about 1" long. I put one end evenly on the side of my bench grinder stone so that it is very smooth and flat. Then i cram that into the hole and jam it right against the flywheel using a needle nose pliers. Some oil does eventually get out, and i do put a clear plastic bag over the timing light so it does not get messy. It takes some practice. Lots of guys, including the mechanics/techs at a local HD shop do this.

The ignition is a dual fire ignition, meaning that it fires both plugs together. This is also called wasted spark ignition. This makes it more difficult to see the correct timing mark in the hole. I have always converted my XLs to single fire ignition so i do not have experience with setting/checking timing on dual fire.

Here are my notes ...

Setting The Ignition Timing on Your IronHead

1. Checking vs Setting the Ignition Timing

You can check the timing without changing anything. Changing the timing can be done by one person but is easier with two. The ignition module or points is on the right side of the bike, the timing hole is on the left side. Easier with one person on each side than to go back and forth. Standard advance for the 1980 XL is 40`. I have mine set at about 35`. At 38` i get pinging.

2. Equipment That You Need

You need an induction timing light which you can buy at any auto supply store. Best to get the "dial back" type. These allow you to set a number [like 35`] into the timing light and then adjust the ignition module/points backplate until you are there.

If you have very well insulated spark plug wires the timing light may not sense the signal thru the wire. If this is the case then open the gap on the spark plug to 050 or more. Reset it to your normal gap [030 for points or 040 for electronic] when done with this procedure.

It also helps to have a throttle lock as the timing should be checked/set with the engine at 2500 to 3000 RPM.

You will need a piece of rubber oil line hose about 1 inch long. Press one end up against the side of a stone grinding wheel [or whatever] to make sure it is perfectly flat.

3. Front Cylinder: TDC Mark vs Advance Timing Mark

The TDC [Top Dead Center] mark is used with a dial back timing light to check the timing, or to set the timing at a specific degree, such as 37`. The advance timing mark is used to set the timing to the factory setting, such as 40`. Best is to use a dial back timing light to check or set timing.

4. To Identify Your Front Cylinder TDC Timing Mark

Remove spark plugs. Rear wheel off the ground, shift to 2nd gear, rotate wheel until it clicks, repeat until you get to top gear. Now by rotating the rear wheel you are rotating the engine. Almost impossible with the plugs in; very difficult in lower gears.

You want the front cyl to be at TDC. You can see in thru the spark plug hole, especially with a flash light; you can try inserting something soft like a pencil and watch it rise and fall as you rotate the engine with the back wheel but be careful it does not break or get stuck! You will have to hang on to the pencil with left hand while rotating the rear wheel with the right. Helps to have a good wingspan, or an extra person.

With the piston at precisely TDC look in thru the timing hole. You should see a drilled dot or a line. That is your front cylinder TDC mark. Once you know for certain what the TDC mark looks like you can check the timing.

5. Procedure, Checking The Timing

Begin with the engine at operating temperature. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine. Insert the 1" hose smooth end first, right tight up against the flywheel. I use a needle nose plier and twist it in there as firmly as i can. If it is not smooth and tight against the flywheel oil will spray out while you are working.

Start the engine, have it at about 2500 to 3000 RPM [it will be extra noisy with the timing plug out], set the timing light at 40`, aim it into the timing hole thru the hose. Click it down one degree at a time while you look for the timing mark. If you don't find it you may have to work up from 40`.

If it is in the 35` to 40` range and there is no pinging then you may wish to leave it as is. With pinging on acceleration you may want to retard it by about 1/16 of an inch or less [see Math below].

6. Procedure, Setting the Timing

Remove the points cover from the right side. You will be rotating the back plate so first mark it so you can get back to the current position if needed. Make a scratch mark or use a permanent magic marker, or better still a small bright red or whatever color paint mark.

To change the timing loosen the two standoffs holding the points/ignition module and rotate the backplate. Clockwise advances [larger degree number] counter-clockwise retards [smaller degree number].

7. Some Math, How Much to Rotate

The backplate has a 3" diameter = 1.5" radius.
The circumference = 2 * pi * radius = 2 * 3.14 * 1.5 inches = 9.42 inches
The circumference = 9.42 * 16 ~= 151 sixteenths of an inch.

One rotation of the backplate corresponds to two rotations of the engine, so it is like a circle that has 2 * 360 = 720 degrees. 720 / 151 ~= 5

Therefore a rotation of the backplate by about 1/16 of an inch results in a timing change of almost 5 degrees!