It is incorrect procedure to use the same jets as someone else. OK i suppose as a starting point with a new carb. Following is my procedure for the slow jet. Set the slow jet first then work on the main.

For the main ride at 4000+ RPM in 3rd gear; release the throttle very slightly - if engine speeds up main is to large; apply a small amount of throttle - if engine bogs down main is too large.

Setting The Pilot Screw on Your IronHead

If the carb is old and dirty the pilot screw passage may be gummed up such that you will not be able to "gently seat" the pilot screw reliably. If this is the case remove the carb from the bike and clean it up. Some guys try to do carb work with the carb in the bike. IMO this is a very bad idea.

In the pilot screw passage there should be, in this sequence: screw, spring, washer, o-ring. [Often POs have installed these parts in the wrong sequence; remember that the purpose of the washer is to protect the o-ring from being damaged by the spring]. The screw usually comes out easily. The other parts may require some work. The best technique is to stick a pipe cleaner in the hole, twist it around, and, like magic, out come the other parts on the end of the pipe cleaner.

EDIT: The above info on the pilot screw applies to 1979 and newer carbs. For 78 and older there is nothing in the passage except the screw itself.

1. You need to have easy access to the pilot screw, easy enough to reliably judge "screw it in until gently seated". Loosen the front fuel tank mount bolt; remove the rear fuel tank mount bolt; prop the rear of the fuel tank up on a piece of 2X4; on some bikes this will not be necessary.

2. With the engine cold [so you do not burn your fingers] turn the pilot screw in clockwise until it is gently seated. Count the number of 1/4 turns as you do it; write the number down. Back it out to the original setting. You may need to return reliably to this setting after experimenting.

The "normal" starting point for this process is 1,1/4 [according to the 79 - 85 FM] or 1,1/2 [according to usual practice] turns out.

EDIT: An old HotXL magazine article recommends for Keihin butterfly carbs between 1/4 and 1,1/4 turns out. My experience is that this works best. If you are more than 1,1/4 turns out your pilot jet is too small.

3. The engine must be at full warm up. It will have very hot parts; to avoid burned fingers have a well lighted, comfy place to work.

4. Set the engine idling at about 1000 RPM. You want it to be idling at the slowest speed that is consistent with a smooth idle so that you can hear or feel slight changes.

5. Turn the pilot screw in clockwise until the engine idle becomes worse; tending to stall. Count the number of 1/4 turns as you do this. Then turn the pilot screw out counter clockwise until the engine idle gets good, then becomes worse, tending to stall. Count the number of 1/4 turns as you do this.

6. The best setting for your bike will be somewhere between these two settings. The FM says to use the leanest setting [most screwed in] consistent with a good idle quality. Some guys say to go between the two settings.

It should be between 1/2 and 1,1/2 turns out from gently seated. If it is not within this range you should change the slow jet.

EDIT: I follow the advice from the old HotXL mag article - set it between 1/2 and 1,1/4 turns out.

7. You may have to adjust the idle speed.

8. Make sure that the spark plugs are clean, then ride the bike around your neighborhood for 10 minutes. Keep it under about 20 MPH so that you are on the "idle port", not the "idle transfer ports", the "mid range port", or the "main jet" [see carb diagrams in FM]. Hopefully the plugs will come out a nice medium gray or tan color. If they are too dark you can screw it in another 1/4 turn; too light screw it out 1/4 turn, and try the ride again.

9. If they are really light or really dark the problem may not be with the pilot screw setting. For example, too light might mean an intake or exhaust leak, and too dark might mean the slow jet is too large [among other possibilities].

10. My experience with this process is that after making a change i have to clean the plugs and go for a good ride [say, a half hour or more] before i can trust that the new results are reliable.

 

My understandin for the jet size is, that putting drag pipes could help create a lean condition on a carb that was put at the factory, with jets that are minimal due to EPA standards, if i wanted to make power i would have a cross over on the pipes or a 2 in to 1, and start playing with baffles on a dyno, but i dont care about power gains, i want a good running bike.
I feel like i have to dissect the carb for my peace of mind, and to be able to tune and write off the carb. your writtings oh how to are of extreme use to me.
after i perform to the best of my ability in tuning and rebuilding take place, "without results" if that is the case, then i will look in to upgrading to CV late model. but for now, specially being cold as it gets here in Houston, i want to take it apart and have a look inside.
It makes me think and wonder that my bike was at a harley dealer for more than a week before i got it, and that tune left much to be desired of, i am not bitching, actually i welcome it, for now is up to my dumb *** to get it right, and only that is acceptable.


I dint know about this, it makes sense.

It is incorrect procedure to use the same jets as someone else. OK i suppose as a starting point with a new carb. Following is my procedure for the slow jet. Set the slow jet first then work on the main.

For the main ride at 4000+ RPM in 3rd gear; release the throttle very slightly - if engine speeds up main is to large; apply a small amount of throttle - if engine bogs down main is too large.

 

The test for the main jet is referred to as a WOT [Wide Open Throttle] test.

Well, i do not know anyone who would actually run at WOT on a hiway where there may be a police officer. In this province if they catch you at 50 KmH [30 MPH] over the limit you lose the bike on the spot and you pay a fine of about $2000.

The important thing is that the carb must be on the main jet, not on the slow jet or the intermediate ports etc. I am asuming this to be true in 3rd gear in excess of 4000 RPM. I do not exceed 5000 RPM as i hope for my engine to last for a few extra years.

 

Bad experience today.

1-I went to local harley and got a carb rebuild kit
2- Took carb off bike and when i pulled it from the intake i noticed that the gasked had a severe leak from the bottom bolt, ( i was told to check for leaks from you guys )
3- I had the kit and wanted to do a rebuild anyhow, so i proceeded.
4- Rate rebuilding the carb on a 10 scale, 10 being dificult a 3.
5- Had carb cleaned and rebuild in about 1.5 hours, no problems.
6- Could not wait to put it back on so i was bolting it top flange bolt fist
7- Put on bottom flange bolt on then i realized what the issue was, the threads on the carb flange are stripped, bottom bolt was not holding anything.

I noticed that the carb had been off at least one time, some heavy handed meat head had all screws with the phillips head messed up, so its only ovious he also stripped the bolt holding the flange.

the space bethween the intake and behind car flange is less than 1/4 inch, so i grinded down a nut to hold the back of the bolt.
i put the nut on the carb side and tightened both bolts.
then when i turned on the gas i found out that the longer bolt had damaged the fuel bowl enough for a gas leak.
i stopped for today to regroup and attack the problem tomorrow, i was upset at me and the **** head that created the issue.

 

Most likely your main problem was being in haste to get the carb back on. It never pays to rush through something like this, even though it may appear to be a simple chore.
pg

PS: The bad gasket was the reason the idle was not as good as it could be.

 

I noticed the gasked leaking (when i took it off )

But did not know the problem until i went to put the bolt on, threads where clearly stripped.

I wanted to rebuild the carb no matter what.

The bad gasket was the problem or it appears so.

the damage to the fuel bowl with slightly longer bolt and nut was my fault, the fuel bowl is very thin alum.

I will tackle the problem in another way now

 

a little JB Weld to patch your fuel bowl may be enough to get you running until a more permanent fix can be found. I have used it with much success in the past. Just make sure you give it a couple of days to cure before you start to use it and patch from the outside.

you can tap new threads easily enough to fix that too.

 

I went to auto zone and got JB WELD, it is a hairline crack from the bolt pushing the fuel bowl, i did my artist work and its drying for tomorrow, i just finished that about an hour ago in the warehouse with cold, cold hands.
I went ahead and tapped both bolt holes on the carburetor flange, they are both 3/8 16 now with 2 new 3/4 inch long bolts ready to be mounted tomorrow.

as soon as i took off the carb i could see the leak on and around the bottom bolt, but like i said before, nothing was saving the carb from a rebuild, specially having bought the kit at Harley today for 34.00 dollars.

The condition of the carb as far as being clean is good, the main jet had a little buildup but nothing that would keep the fuel flow from getting where its suposed to be going.

If i get it to run to my satisfaction i will get an old carb for the fuel bowl and polish it, but my satisfaction is tough, they say this carb likes to burp even new and i hate that.

 

Yes, Neal, your clip.

 

thanks for the input, if my JB Eld holds for tomorrow i should have a new clip soon with a totally diferent idle i hope.
I also hope to have some photos.