prety sure you are correct, its dificult to read the stamping on the aluminum, i want to get a rebuilding kit so i can be sure that nothing is clogged, like a jet.

 

Sometimes the parts in the rebuild kits are not as good as what is currently in the carb, especially the needle valve [the needle thing with the rubber tip that seals when the float rises]. So if you get a kit do not wreck or discard any original carb parts.

I have worked on carbs for 2 old Sportsters, 3 old Viragos, and a couple of other bikes. I have never yet needed a rebuild kit. Most i have needed is new float bowl o-ring [or gasket]. I suggest do not buy a kit. Dismantle and clean the carb and buy only what you need, if you need anything at all.

If the float bowl o-ring is stretched, put it in the freezer for a half hour to shrink it a little. Then stick it in place with a small amount of Permatex Hylomar - this is not a silicone-like product and will not gum up the carb.

Here's my carb cleaning notes ...

Cleaning a Carb

1. Removing it from the bike should be straight forward. First thing when it is out is to check the pilot screw setting. Turn it all the way in until gently seated counting the number of 1/4 turns; then write this number down; then reset it.

2. I put mine in a vice to remove the screws, and for much of the following work. Wrap in a shop towel; close the vice gently taking extra care with the choke and throttle linkages. The vice is a needed extra pair of hands.

EDIT: A better choice than a plain vice ...


3. You must be very careful handling the float so as to not change the level. You must have the official specs for setting the level as in the FM, and check it, every time you dismantle the carb, as the last thing before putting it back together.

4. The jets are made of brass, a soft metal that is easily damaged. Use an exact correct size screwdriver. I ground a medium flat blade screwdriver down to exact size on my bench grinder to access the slow jet.

5. The general appearance of the inside of the carb is not necessarily a good indication of its condition. It can look spotless and have clogged jets, or look cruddy and have clear jets.

6. Clean each individual part. Do not allow any solvents to contact any rubber parts [tip of needle, o-ring seal for bowl]

7. Make a list of all of the jets and passages for your carb using the carb manual or the FM for the bike. Then ensure that you can blow either compressed air or carb cleaner thru each one.

8. Remove the pilot screw and clean the parts and the passage. The passage contains in this sequence: pilot screw, spring, washer, o-ring. These are very small parts, especially the washer and o-ring. Usually the spring will easily fall out. One time i thought the spring was not in there because it would not fall out; i obtained a new spring and could not get it in! The technique for removing the washer and o-ring is to use a pipe cleaner: stick it in the hole, twist it around, remove it - you should see the washer and o-ring on the end of the pipe cleaner.

EDIT: the washer and o-ring are part of the pilot screw assembly for 1979 on. They are not in the 1978 and earlier Keihin carbs.

Remember that the purpose of the washer is to protect the o-ring from the spring and you will always get them back in in the correct sequence.

9. Dismantle the accelerator pump assembly noting carefully the sequence and orientation of the parts. Clean and inspect the parts. Replace the diaphragm if it is cracked.

10. Check the float level then carefully put it back together. I personally find it very confusing trying to decide which way to bend the tang if it is not correct. If the fuel level is low is the float high or low? Do i need to bend the tang up or down? On the bench the carb is usually upside down, adding to the confusion. Sort all this out before making an adjustment.

Best to replace the original Phillips screws for the bowl with stainless steel socket head screws.

 

Hey Mick, I just checked the radar on the weather channel .ca....looks like the storm is just south of you now. Got your shovel ready?
Here it comes!!!

 

50 KmH winds, more than a foot of snow; i did grocery shopping today so i can be snowed in for a week. I am not prepared for a power out tho.

I just looked at the satellite feed ...
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/wea...link_obs_radar
... a couple more hours and we are doomed!

 

we are getting the coldest weather in 15 years, it should be down to 27 and dry and sunny tomorrow up to 42.
mean weather for Houston

 

Neal: I think this storm came from your direction...it's your fault I can't go to work tomorrow!!( and thanks for that)

Mick: So did we!!lol I've got batties, candles, flashlights, a fireplace etc....we're ready....and looking forward to it!

 

we sent the **** up there so we can ask more questions and you all have to stay home and answer them, so there.

we just talked with my niece, she is a doctor in Maine, she told us that they are going home tomorrow at noon because of the amount of snow, very unusual for them up there to go home early, so this storm is bad.

You all stay warm, and thanks for the comradery

 

the istructions are very good Mick, i will folow them.

I had the bike with the aircleaner off today, she has little skips here and there and am sure that the answer is inside the carb. heck by the time i get done with it i will be so familiar with it that i may keep it instead of the CV.

 

I have just listened to the OP bike idling.
It really is not as healthy as you are making out.
It was definitely struggling. It is being propped up by additional idle speed.
He only revved it the one time, but it appeared to have an off idle glitch.
It needs attention to either the idle mixture screw adjustment, or, as Mick suggested, a good clean out as well.
I would be reviewing the pilot jet sizing.
It can certainly have a stronger more consistent idle than that.
Check timing, leads and plugs.

 

thanks for advice, if we are talking about my clip i agree the bike could be stronger, and strugling i agree with.

I have found that some people have succsess with 1.75 mm main jet, and .88 mm slow jet, so i want to get them and put them in with a rebuild kit.

I have never been happy with the carb, but am not done working on it