Trying to get her started
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Ok would you recommend trying to rebuild the carb again? Or would you recommend another brand of carb besides the S&S? Sporty Specialties has a Mikuni 38mm for 57 and up on page 162 of his catalog. I have heard that these are pretty good. I only mentioned the S&S because that is what they used.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
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From: Houston Texas
The best carb you could ever put on a Sportster is the Mikuni VM38. This carb will make a Sportster run smoother and start easier than any carb on this planet. You can get them for about $250 I believe.
I have a Mikuni and bought it in 1973. It is the best! I currently run a Bendix and it is second best.
So why did I not mention the Mikuni before?
Because I do not think it will work with a magneto.
Too little room above the mag.
But if you measure what space you have and find that the Mikuni will fit, your search is over. Buy that carb!
Here is a pic of my 1971 XLCH with the Mikuni.
I have the timing cover distributor so space is not an issue. With a mag I believe it will be an issue. So be careful with the carb purchase.
pg
I have a Mikuni and bought it in 1973. It is the best! I currently run a Bendix and it is second best.
So why did I not mention the Mikuni before?
Because I do not think it will work with a magneto.
Too little room above the mag.
But if you measure what space you have and find that the Mikuni will fit, your search is over. Buy that carb!
Here is a pic of my 1971 XLCH with the Mikuni.
I have the timing cover distributor so space is not an issue. With a mag I believe it will be an issue. So be careful with the carb purchase.
pg
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 240
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From: Columbia MO.
Piniongear when I first bought my bike it had the mikuni carb on it and yes it ran really good but the second season I couldn't get the damn thing to run at all. the local indy shop tried and ended up putting on a bendix carb and it ran pretty good for the past few years.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
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From: rural ontario
Ok well I took my "maiden voyage" today. I put the bike on a jack and jack stands, started it, put it in gear and the rear wheel started turning instanly. I let it spin for a second then started pushing the rear brake while reving it a little. The wheel stopped and the motor kept running. I grabbed the clutch and let off the brake and the rear wheel stopped, then I let out on the clutch and it started pulling again. Did this a couple of times to insure that the clutches were free enough to try and test drive it.
Decided to try running it down the road now. Which I have about a two hundred foot gravel driveway down hill. Being the first time I have ridden any kind of serious bike I was a little worried. But I made it, both feet dragging in the gravel until I got to the road. Now I live on a major highway where the speed limit is 55 so I was also worried about cars topping the hill. I revved the engine, started to let out on the clutch, and started moving but the clutch was pulling harder than I thought. I ended up going straight across the road in my uncle's front yard, I tried to ragain my composure and start to turn back to the road. As I was turning around in his yard the bike coughed and died. That was it. I tried getting it started with no results. I finally walked back across the road got my truck and trailer, loaded it up, and parked it back in the carport. Need less to say it was fun while it lasted but I am going to need some practice to get used to the clutch. And I have talked to a local shop that works on Harleys and they told me to get a S&S carb because they have a shelf full of the Keihin/Bendix carbs. Hopefully that will fix all my starting and running problems.
Now on to the subject of the mag. The guys that have seen my bike after I bought it say they knew the guy that built the bike. They have told me they saw the bike running but some things have changed. It originaly had a girder frontend but that has been changed. So the mag could have been changed but why would someone change to an older style cover and mag if they had points and a newer cover already?
Decided to try running it down the road now. Which I have about a two hundred foot gravel driveway down hill. Being the first time I have ridden any kind of serious bike I was a little worried. But I made it, both feet dragging in the gravel until I got to the road. Now I live on a major highway where the speed limit is 55 so I was also worried about cars topping the hill. I revved the engine, started to let out on the clutch, and started moving but the clutch was pulling harder than I thought. I ended up going straight across the road in my uncle's front yard, I tried to ragain my composure and start to turn back to the road. As I was turning around in his yard the bike coughed and died. That was it. I tried getting it started with no results. I finally walked back across the road got my truck and trailer, loaded it up, and parked it back in the carport. Need less to say it was fun while it lasted but I am going to need some practice to get used to the clutch. And I have talked to a local shop that works on Harleys and they told me to get a S&S carb because they have a shelf full of the Keihin/Bendix carbs. Hopefully that will fix all my starting and running problems.
Now on to the subject of the mag. The guys that have seen my bike after I bought it say they knew the guy that built the bike. They have told me they saw the bike running but some things have changed. It originaly had a girder frontend but that has been changed. So the mag could have been changed but why would someone change to an older style cover and mag if they had points and a newer cover already?
I did go back through your posts and did find some pics. You have a bendix...they are great. the pics I saw were old (last year) and things were looking a little rough. I'll assume you have gotten the carb cleaned up a bit...the pic was fuzzy so, I could not tell the age of the carb(later Bendix carbs have an adjustable main jet--early ones are fixed). However, if you've had the carb apart and there are no breaks or cracks or any other damage then keep it and just learn to tune it and work with it. It is probably set up already for the bike and just a matter of tuning the bike properly...buy a new carb and then you will have issues with a bike that has tuning issues and a carb that needs to be tuned to match the bike...a no-win situation that will drive you crazy!!
"why would someone change"--everyone changes something on a bike. Sometimes just add some bling, sometimes cut, chop, and rebuild...it's a bike thing. You make it your own...sometimes your own changes again and again.
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Alright well I can either buy the mikuni for $275, a complete kit. Or I can buy a kit for the Bendix for about $25. But the issue at hand is if I do rebuild the carb how do I tune it? It doesn't have the adjustable mainjet but the jet is the kind that screws into the bowl. So the adjustable kit can be bought and put in. All I am asking is what are the little tricks behind getting one set.
The issue with restarting after I have run it for a few minutes. I am not opening the throttle when I try it. I may take less than a 1/4 twist on the throttle after quite a few kicks and only get a kick back. Can anyone tell me some of their tricks to give me something to go by?
The issue with restarting after I have run it for a few minutes. I am not opening the throttle when I try it. I may take less than a 1/4 twist on the throttle after quite a few kicks and only get a kick back. Can anyone tell me some of their tricks to give me something to go by?
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
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From: rural ontario
My previous post was done before I read to the end of the thread.
I would encourage you to solve the tuning issues before you spend money on a new carb. Then...if you want a new carb...for whatever reason...buy one.
I would check for intake leaks. It sounds like you have already had the carb off.
Check your compression (easy way to check lifter adjustment)
carb adjustment (is your main adjustable or not)
When you had the carb apart did you clean it well? replace the o-rings (if the o-ring on the main jet isn't tight fuel can be drawn past the jet instead of through it creating a rich condition, fouling plugs and result in poor running or stall), clean all the fuel passages, and accel pump, what is your idle speed?
and your timing...Pinion made a good point earlier, but I'd still put a light to it to get a value at which it runs best.
I would encourage you to solve the tuning issues before you spend money on a new carb. Then...if you want a new carb...for whatever reason...buy one.
I would check for intake leaks. It sounds like you have already had the carb off.
Check your compression (easy way to check lifter adjustment)
carb adjustment (is your main adjustable or not)
When you had the carb apart did you clean it well? replace the o-rings (if the o-ring on the main jet isn't tight fuel can be drawn past the jet instead of through it creating a rich condition, fouling plugs and result in poor running or stall), clean all the fuel passages, and accel pump, what is your idle speed?
and your timing...Pinion made a good point earlier, but I'd still put a light to it to get a value at which it runs best.
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I have no idea what my idle speed is because it will not run at idle. It chugs and dies. I have tried turning the throttle set screw in a half turn to get the throttle plate open a little more. The reason I did this was I looked inside the carb one time the other day and noticed there is only a gap about .001 or .002 between it and the housing. This may not be enough for the bike to run. I also set the screw in the top (not sure what it is called) at 1 and 1/2 turns out from lite seating.
I have not put a timing light on the bike since I cannot get it to idle. But as I stated earlier. Will the mag not being able to retard the timing really effect the tuning? And if this is the case what would you recommend to resolve this?
I have not put a timing light on the bike since I cannot get it to idle. But as I stated earlier. Will the mag not being able to retard the timing really effect the tuning? And if this is the case what would you recommend to resolve this?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Houston Texas
I have run the Bendix for the past 7 years simply because I like the two piece handlebars and enclosed throttle cable.
No other reason.
I bought the Mikuni in 1973 as I said and I ran it until 2004 without a single problem.
Jeez......that's 31 years!
I dunno, I suppose it made a believer out of me, and you will see me waving the Mikuni flag anywhere I am caught talking about carbs for a Sportster.
pg
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: rural ontario
don't bother with the adjustable main. Did you already put a kit on it? You said, a few posts ago, you already rebuilt it ('should I try and rebuild the carb again')...
The only tuning adjustments you have are idle mix and idle speed. The main jet is fixed and you may want extra jets (one up and one down) if you travel much...I've changed mine on the side of the road a few times through the mountains in BC.....but that is an issue for much later.
...but, there is still intake leaks to check for anytime the carb comes off
"I may take less than a 1/4 twist on the throttle after quite a few kicks and only get a kick back"--try 1/2 twist, if that doesn't work check plugs (wet? sooty?), try new plugs and retry.
The only tuning adjustments you have are idle mix and idle speed. The main jet is fixed and you may want extra jets (one up and one down) if you travel much...I've changed mine on the side of the road a few times through the mountains in BC.....but that is an issue for much later.
...but, there is still intake leaks to check for anytime the carb comes off
"I may take less than a 1/4 twist on the throttle after quite a few kicks and only get a kick back"--try 1/2 twist, if that doesn't work check plugs (wet? sooty?), try new plugs and retry.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
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From: rural ontario
"Will the mag not being able to retard the timing really effect the tuning? And if this is the case what would you recommend to resolve this?"
yes
If you don't believe the mag is seated properly than lift it and bump it one tooth in the direction needed to achieve the ability to properly set timing.
BUT...if you ONLY mean because someone has made a fixed mag out of an adjustable one...then no(I'll find those pics again and look at this). The earlier mags were fixed...as is mine...and it works just fine.
I'm really starting to think intake leak...based on what I'm reading. spray WD40 all around the intake seals and back of the carb...a quick, easy check...
yes
If you don't believe the mag is seated properly than lift it and bump it one tooth in the direction needed to achieve the ability to properly set timing.
BUT...if you ONLY mean because someone has made a fixed mag out of an adjustable one...then no(I'll find those pics again and look at this). The earlier mags were fixed...as is mine...and it works just fine.
I'm really starting to think intake leak...based on what I'm reading. spray WD40 all around the intake seals and back of the carb...a quick, easy check...