Trying to get her started
I would remove the carb and dismantle/check the accelerator pump. Too much fuel. Also check the float level and clear the jets etc.
Came home this afternoon and tried it again and no luck whatsoever. I pulled the plugs and they were black and the one in the #2 cylinder was wet while the #1 plug was black and smelled like gas but was not wet. Any thoughts on why?
Oh and Iron Mick, the case is a 74. The bike was built by a guy that bought a shipping container full of Harley parts. He took what he could find and made a compilation of a Sportster. It has a pre 70 cam cover on it with a mag. As far as I know everything else is post 70 model stuff. The case serial number is for a 74 XLCH but it also has a XLH clutch cover (it has the opening for a starter but no ring gear on the clutch drum). Also I went through the carb back about a year ago before I got it running the first time. Everything looked good, measured the float height like the rebuild kit suggested and tried relacing the accelerator pump and broke the top off of the pump rod (the rod that has the cover around it and connects to the throttle linkage.) Took the old one and got it to go back in and didn't break it but it is in the top hole of the pump rod. There are two on it I think. Could changing this help a little?
One last thing for now. There is an old biker that runs an 18 wheeler for us and every once in a while I get to talk to him. I ran into him this morning and ask what he thought. He ask was I still running points and I told him I was. He said to get an electronic ignition and do away with the points. Any thoughts on where I could get some for a mag or should I try sourcing a 74 XLH cam cover with the points in the cone on the end of the cam or possibly even swap to an electronic ignition distributor? Sorry for such a long post but the only dumb question is one that was never asked.
Last edited by droff85; Feb 14, 2011 at 06:48 PM.
I would check your timing. If the mag was moving the timing will be off. Find your timing mark on the flywheel and using a meter or circuit tester set the mag to just fire (just at the point when the circuit opens)...it won't be quite right but it will be close enough to start. Once it is running you can re-check.
Get some clean plugs too. To get it started maybe a couple of sets so you can rotate them around when they get wet.
Assuming everything else is good (spark and fuel delivery) figuring out how to start it will be a trial and error at first. go easy on the gas though...it sounds like it is miss-firing and flooding(carbon and fuel on the plugs).
It doesn't matter which hole you are using on the throttle pump for starting the bike...you wouldn't give it a full crank anyway. that is something to experiment with when you are running.
One other thing...I have had my mag work loose but it never bounces; there is an o-ring on the shaft to keep the motor oil in that still should hold the mag tight. It will turn but it shouldn't bounce I'd be inclined to pull it out and check the teeth for damage.
I asked this one time before but can anyone refresh my memory on how to set the timing if you pull the dist/mag out. Say starting from new. And how can I check the timing after I get the mag set initially? Do I use a timing light? Is it something you do by ear meaning I'll have to go see some old biker and let them listen to it? Or is there something I can get to make sure the timing is right? I have seen something advertised on the Morris Magneto and Joe Hunt websites about timing your mag. Would this be helpful or what?
Would it be a good idea to buy one of the tune-up kits I've seen, in say Jireh, that has new points and condensor? Or would changing those out now be a waste since I know it will run?
Again sorry for the long post but this is my first bike, and on top of that my first Harley, so I'm trying to learn as much about it as I can. Thanks again.
droff
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plugs: I use HD and champion. My local dealer is an hour away...they have been good to me and I like to support them but I can get champions in my own community, so, I use what I have on hand when I need it.
If you don't have a shop manual for the bike get one. The clymer covers '59-'85 and will cover all the unique features on your bike. The HD manuals split at the '69 model year so you would need 2 to cover the bike.
timing: with the front cylinder on the compression stroke find the timing mark on the flywheel. If the mag in installed correctly the narrow cam lobe should be counterclockwise from the follower and the points opening. If you can't make this happen by turning the mag in your bike lift the mag free of the gears and turn the cam enough to make this happen. Using a circuit tester or multi-meter ground it on the mag case and with the coil disconnected from the terminal touch the meter to the terminal and with the points closed you will have a circuit. Turn the mag until the circuit breaks (just when the meter reads 0 or the circuit tester light goes out)--this is the point when timing is reached.
This will be close enough to start and run the bike but you will want to set it properly with the bike running on high idle. Yes to a timing light...inlight of the fact the bike has been apart, setting the timing with a light is a must because there may be other tuning issues to solve once it is running (intake leaks, carb adjustment, jetting, etc) and using the light confirms the timing is accurate. Once your bike is tuned and running right you can learn to set the timing by ear.
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