81' Ironhead carb issues
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 33
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From: grand island, ne
Mick I just took the measurement it was 0.6875. My 6" steel rule didnt have metric. while I have the carb apart I am going to clean it following the steps that you gave me yesterday. Also when I rocked the carb back and forth to get the float to move I had to rock it nearly 90 degrees to get the float to move. Just thought I should mention that.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: grand island, ne
So I pulled the speed jet is there supposed to be an o-ring washer or spring? I tried to trick with the pipe cleaner and nothing. Also I have removed the main jet, but can not get the main nozzle out.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: grand island, ne
Looks like there is some missing parts in the stock carb. Maybe I should wait untill I get the FM. I am still going to put in the new plugs. The guy at the parts store recomended that I change to oil. Should I change the oil now or wait untill I am able to check for the exhaust/intake leaks?
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 269
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From:
Yep just some black electrical tape. I have heard before maybe on this forum about some Vulcanizing ta
pe that might shrink after it gets warm . I didn't have that so went with electrical tape . Don't know if it helps but figured it can't hurt !
T-Ron
pe that might shrink after it gets warm . I didn't have that so went with electrical tape . Don't know if it helps but figured it can't hurt !
T-Ron
The float should not be sticky. Holding it as i described if you tip it a little to the left the float should be just hanging there. If it does not seem right post a pic.
If you are referring to the pilot screw? It is accessed from the top of the outside of the carb. If it has never been removed before then it may be covered by a cap, which would have to be removed.
It should not be necessary to remove the main jet nozzle and emulsion tube. They are pressed in; there is a technique to remove them but they are probably OK in there.
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May as well change the engine and primary oil. I use HD Formula+ in the primary and straight 50W in the engine [20W50 in the winter]. Since all the oil is in the oil tank it is not necessary to have the engine at operating temperature for it to drain readily IMO. However you should run the engine for a minute or so anyway to ensure that, if it has "wet-sumped", the oil will get back to the tank [or out the vent tube].
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 791
From: Heart of Dixie
Whenever I have a problem with how my Ironhead's running, the FIRST thing I do is take the plugs out and look at them. If you know what you're looking at, they will give you some good clues on what to check next. While reading through this thread, I thought to myself that the plugs are probably loading up for some reason. You've now discovered that you have the wrong plugs, and as IronMick said, if they're too long, the pistons could have closed the gap for you, too. Good luck with it.