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81' Ironhead carb issues

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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #41  
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n.texan
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Yes sir, there is a rectangular black plastic box underneath the battery/oil tank.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #42  
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are you getting fire at the plugs?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by n.texan
Yes sir, there is a rectangular black plastic box underneath the battery/oil tank.
Do you have the factory service manual 99484-85?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #44  
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I am ordering the FM on friday. I am getting a spark, but I think it is week. I noticed that the coil is mounted about 1/2" above the front cylinder. Could it be possible that the heat fried the inside of the coil? I sure wished I would have bought the manuels instead of the damn carb!! lol
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:43 PM
  #45  
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So I talked the wife into giving me my allowance early and I just ordered my FM. I am excited like a fat kid in a candy store!!!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #46  
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your allowance?????????????????---------dude youre not suppose to say that out loud

if youre getting a weak spark i dont know eneogh about electronic ignition to tell you your next step.i dont know if its adjustable or not.

that i know of coils are either working or they are not.ive only known one person in my life that had a bad coil and it would work fine until it warmed up then it would cut out completely.....but while it was working it worked good.that was on a truck.-----i doubt its the coil but cant say for sure.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 06:03 AM
  #47  
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That is the stock place to mount the coil. 1/2" of space is plenty.

I am not familiar enough with spark, either size or color, to judge myself. When i test for spark i do it in the shop with the lights off and the door closed. If i see something it has always been sufficient.

BTW, with electronic ignition it is a bad idea under any circumstances to run the engine with the no grounded spark plugs in the leads. Always, if the plugs are out of the engine, they should be in the leads and sitting on the cylinder heads while the engine is running.

Do these two resistance tests on the ignition coil - disconnect the wires and cables, then test across the two spark plug [secondary] connectors and test across the two electrical [primary] terminals. Let us know the results. Primary should be 3.3 to 3.7 ohms, secondary 16,500 to 19,500 ohms.

If that is the original coil for that electronic ignition, then do not reverse the wires that are connected to it. For traditional coils the wires can be reversed but not for this one.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #48  
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LMAO Straydog that may have came out wrong... We just bought our first house. It is a nice house but has not been touched sence the 1970's when it was built. So you could say it needs $$$$. So we have budgeted for everything. Anyways what part of Texas are you at? I grew up just north of Amarillo.

Mick I will be going out to the garage to remove the coil here directly and will let you all know what the results are. So is it o.k. to use a screw driver instead of the spark plug when checking for a spark (I am letting it spark to the cylinder). Keep in mind that the bike still does not start. I am only bumping the starter button. Please let me know because I dont know any diffrent
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #49  
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I have 2.8 ohms on the primary and And 0 on the secondary.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #50  
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The primary is 2.8 ohms and the secondary is 0. On the top of the housing written in white paint is 2.89 ohm 1107-1 and there is a crack above where the front bolt slides through.
 
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