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81' Ironhead carb issues

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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by n.texan
... So is it o.k. to use a screw driver instead of the spark plug when checking for a spark (I am letting it spark to the cylinder). ...
I do not know about these types of techniques. I never use them myself. If you do not use the spark plug you do not know if it is any good.

Originally Posted by n.texan
The primary is 2.8 ohms and the secondary is 0. ... and there is a crack above where the front bolt slides through.
The crack adjacent to the bolt hole may mean it was over-tightened, and may or may not affect the electronics. 2.8 is too low and the 0, well, if you had the meter set to the correct range then it is certainly toast.

So you need a new ignition coil. You may need to get an entire new electronic ignition - i doubt that that coil is available any more. Check out the Ultima - it is what i have and is quite popular now. Jireh Cycles [on-line store] sells then for about $109 plus shipping. Up here in this country i have to pay in excess of $300 for the same part.

http://www.jirehcycles.com/

Search for Ultima Ignition
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #52  
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New 2.8 ohm coils are readily available...here's one.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-931

I'm pretty sure anything close to that resistance will work fine, so a 3 ohm coil would also be an option.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 83XLX
New 2.8 ohm coils are readily available ... a 3 ohm coil would also be an option.
The stock coil for the 1981 EI is 3.3 to 3.7 ohms primary resistance.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #54  
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well i guess they can sorta work.learned somthing new today.
n.texan--anything north of amarillo is called canada i THINK the closest ive ever been to there was clovis new mexico on my way home.thats some vacant land out that way...i was so tired i dont remember much about it.i am in the temple waco area.----you said "here directly" haha yeah you might be from texas.maybe that gets said everywhere but ive only heard local/southern folks say that.--youre a long way from home my friend.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 11:34 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by IronMick
The stock coil for the 1981 EI is 3.3 to 3.7 ohms primary resistance.
Yeah, you're right. I took off on the 2.8 reading he got when testing. Still, a 3 ohm coil will work fine...my '83 had the same ~3.5 ohm coil stock, and I replaced it with a SE 3 ohm model a number of years ago and have had no problems. Generally with stock Sportster ignitions, you can use a 3 ohm coil with electronic ignitions and a 5 ohm coil with points.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #56  
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Good call on the coil guys
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #57  
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O.K. I got my factory manuel aka my bible lol. And I met a guy that had a spare known good coil. He brought over the known good coil and still no bueno. I am at a total stand still here. Would anyone know if there is a way to check the ignition module? We pulled the pluggs and have absolutily no spark at all. Also if I converted to points could I bypass this ignition module? He did point out that someone down the line had put a lot of upgrades into this bike such as the altenator conversion.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:15 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by n.texan
... Would anyone know if there is a way to check the ignition module? ... Also if I converted to points could I bypass this ignition module? ...
A failed ignition module does often behave the same as a failed coil.

If that is the original factory electronic ignition there is a test procedure in the factory service manual page 1-10. Typically tho, like the coil, you need to replace it to know for sure.

Yes, converting to points will allow you to bypass the ignition module. This what most guys have done.

You have to be careful with replacement points parts. Many of them are absolute junk - do not work right out of the box. Best to stick with made in the USA parts like ACCEL.

Here is another guy's experience ...

My Harley is retarded - auto advance rebuild (&pics)
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #59  
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Here's another thing to check - do you have a good, strong battery that has clean, tight cable connections? Many times, if you don't have strong voltage from the battery, the starter will rob enough voltage that the electronic ignition won't work correctly. The motor may turn over fine, but there will be little or no spark at the plugs. I'd check that out before I converted to points or bought a new electronic ignition. Also, check the ground to the electronic ignition module to make sure it has a good connection.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #60  
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mick that was a very interesting article you posted.it never really occurred to me that would be a problem.

ntexan----i dont know eneough about e.ignitions to be of much help,but i would check for broken wires(can be broken and the plastic still be good) is the coil getting power/module getting power etc etc.i admit i am talking out my a$$ because i have never had to check e.ignitions before.its just what i think i would do if i were faced with your problem.also i use to visit an old zcar forum and it seemed when guys had issues with e.ignitions often times it could be traced back to bad grounds.i dont know if that crosses over to ironheads or not.------------i cant tell you this is your problem but it doesnt cost anything.good luck

from time to time i think about getting e.ignition set up back in my bike...usually when i am on the road someplace readjusting the points.i never made the jump and quite honestly i dont think i ever will.youre troubles have at least for the time being made me quite happy to have points.
 

Last edited by straydog13; Apr 14, 2011 at 09:42 AM.
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