fuel problems
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Joined: Aug 2010
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fuel problems update:
Ok so finally got it going, went for a quick cruise around the block and seemed to get stuck in a certain idle( high rpm). I had changed the main jet from 165 to 170. So I put the 165 back in and then while riding around the block again it started to misfire ( thats what it felt like anyway) and stalled. I have not preformed the manifold leak test yet but i have loosend the heads and i dont think i can get the manifold on any tighter. Any other thoughts would help a bit.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I think the high idle is not related to the main jet size. The main jet is relevant mostly to wide opem throttle or close to it. And the change from 165 to 170 is quite small.
Do you have a support bracket for the carb/air cleaner assembly?
To check the manifold installation, with the carb off, stick a finger in on each side and feel the join between the mani and the head flanges. It should be more or less even all the way around and on both sides, with no large gap - preferable no gap at all.
To adjust it remove the carb, loosen the cylinder base nuts, twist both cylinders as close together as they can be, then torque the base nuts back to 30 ft lbs. To be able to do this the base gasket should have been installed with sealer on the bottom but no sealer on the top - to prevent it from shifting but allow the cylinders to move.
"as close together as they can be" works best on mine; yours may be different.
Do you have a support bracket for the carb/air cleaner assembly?
To check the manifold installation, with the carb off, stick a finger in on each side and feel the join between the mani and the head flanges. It should be more or less even all the way around and on both sides, with no large gap - preferable no gap at all.
To adjust it remove the carb, loosen the cylinder base nuts, twist both cylinders as close together as they can be, then torque the base nuts back to 30 ft lbs. To be able to do this the base gasket should have been installed with sealer on the bottom but no sealer on the top - to prevent it from shifting but allow the cylinders to move.
"as close together as they can be" works best on mine; yours may be different.
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I have found a intake clamp that has manifold seals built in to them. I am thinking they would be a good investment. Anyone ever use them?
Jp cycles #4000111. Also This problem seams to happen about ten minutes of riding or when I start to lay into the throttle a little bit more. The only thing I can think of is the clamps I have now heat up and get lose. Unless something else would cause the bike to caugh a few times and stall out.
Jp cycles #4000111. Also This problem seams to happen about ten minutes of riding or when I start to lay into the throttle a little bit more. The only thing I can think of is the clamps I have now heat up and get lose. Unless something else would cause the bike to caugh a few times and stall out.
Last edited by oil leak; Apr 30, 2011 at 12:24 PM.
You might do these two checks before buying the parts ...
Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests
You cannot get a good tuneup if there are intake leaks or exhaust leaks.
1. Check for Intake Leaks
With the engine idling spray propane gas or WD-40 around the carb/intake/cylinder head joints. Propane is best because it leaves no mess, and is most easily sucked in thru leaks. WD-40 is said to work well because it has very fine spray droplets. Be careful to not allow any of either to get sucked in thru the A/C as this will invalidate the results.
Any change in engine RPM is a leak which must be fixed.
EDIT: Experience is that this procedure will identify larger intake leaks, but it may miss very small leaks that also must be fixed. And that propane is definetly the better choice.
EDIT: You have to do a lot of spraying to detect a small leak. Propane will be really clean. Anything else like WD-40, carb cleaner, etc will make a huge mess.
2. Check for Exhaust Leaks
Pour about 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes. Run the engine at idle. You will get lots of smoke for about 5 minutes.
All smoke should come from the ends of the exhaust pipes/mufflers. Any other is a leak which must be fixed.
Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests
You cannot get a good tuneup if there are intake leaks or exhaust leaks.
1. Check for Intake Leaks
With the engine idling spray propane gas or WD-40 around the carb/intake/cylinder head joints. Propane is best because it leaves no mess, and is most easily sucked in thru leaks. WD-40 is said to work well because it has very fine spray droplets. Be careful to not allow any of either to get sucked in thru the A/C as this will invalidate the results.
Any change in engine RPM is a leak which must be fixed.
EDIT: Experience is that this procedure will identify larger intake leaks, but it may miss very small leaks that also must be fixed. And that propane is definetly the better choice.
EDIT: You have to do a lot of spraying to detect a small leak. Propane will be really clean. Anything else like WD-40, carb cleaner, etc will make a huge mess.
2. Check for Exhaust Leaks
Pour about 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes. Run the engine at idle. You will get lots of smoke for about 5 minutes.
All smoke should come from the ends of the exhaust pipes/mufflers. Any other is a leak which must be fixed.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 406
Likes: 122
From: Iowa
Also This problem seams to happen about ten minutes of riding or when I start to lay into the throttle a little bit more. The only thing I can think of is the clamps I have now heat up and get lose. Unless something else would cause the bike to caugh a few times and stall out.
I can't help with the other style of manifold clamps, I use the original O-ring type. It took me a couple of tries to get them installed right with no leaks.
Good luck.
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No gaskets for the exhaust.
I think you cannot use the bands with o-ring type heads, but i am not ceratin. I know one guy who uses both with the bands over the o-rings. A common technique is to apply electrical tape or wide teflon tape over the o-rings.
If you are using the stock exhaust clamps check to see if they completely close when installed. If so they are not working. What you can do is put a pop can shim between the pipe and the head [EDIT, i should have said between the pipe and the clamp]. That will make the clamp much more effective - when properly tightened it will not be completely closed.
You could also replace the OEM clamps with T-bolt clamps.
If you have aftermarket pipes they may have only two slits at the head end. These will not seal well. Use a hacksaw to cut two more - not too deep tho!
I use the stock clamps, OEM pipes with 4 slits, and apply a bead of Permatex Ultra Copper to the inside of the pipe before slipping it onto the head. I would use the shims too but they seem to be not necessary with the 4-slit OEM pipes.
I think you cannot use the bands with o-ring type heads, but i am not ceratin. I know one guy who uses both with the bands over the o-rings. A common technique is to apply electrical tape or wide teflon tape over the o-rings.
If you are using the stock exhaust clamps check to see if they completely close when installed. If so they are not working. What you can do is put a pop can shim between the pipe and the head [EDIT, i should have said between the pipe and the clamp]. That will make the clamp much more effective - when properly tightened it will not be completely closed.
You could also replace the OEM clamps with T-bolt clamps.
If you have aftermarket pipes they may have only two slits at the head end. These will not seal well. Use a hacksaw to cut two more - not too deep tho!
I use the stock clamps, OEM pipes with 4 slits, and apply a bead of Permatex Ultra Copper to the inside of the pipe before slipping it onto the head. I would use the shims too but they seem to be not necessary with the 4-slit OEM pipes.
Last edited by IronMick; May 1, 2011 at 01:08 PM. Reason: Correct error