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Cv carb for ironhead

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Old May 25, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #11  
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sepixlh
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So you need new needle valve, from any HD dealer about $8...
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #12  
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Part of the problem was that the float was out of adjustment, so i adjusted the float valve contact but a little leak is there no matter what i do.
today i will go by Harley and get a new needle valve, it is also good to know that the CV does not need dual cables.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #13  
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Be careful with the new needle valve. They have a reputation that the old, used one works better than the new one. An OEM HD part may be best, not any aftermarket POS part.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #14  
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will do, am only buying quality pcs from Harley, it makes me think a little that the one on the carb now has the edges, (the four edges) on it shows wear.
I will try this then later if need to rebuild the carb
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #15  
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I installed a new needle valve from Harley, HOW ABOUT $21.00 Texas dollars, no problem I know the dealer has to pay rent and the guys are friendly and we BS while am there.

Results: There has to be a happy medium on adjusting the float and I have to reach it, at a fine point the valve wont allow gas to go on the fuel bowl, just a little the other way I get minor leak from gasket area, I have to work that out, it gets better if I don’t open the petcock all the way and the leak is only a little wetness. I will work on it. Another thing is that am wondering if the carb is a CV-40 and there is a difference on how much fuel is available and running thru the carb? No problem, I welcome the challenge.

I am having a hard time with getting a cable that has enough cable reach, so am going to get a cable kit from JP CYCLES; the kit is 60 inches long and I can set reach myself to anything I want.

The carburetor is on the bike and it looks like it belongs there, it’s sweet, you don’t have to choke it, whack the throttle 3 times and it fires up, hold the throttle a little open for a about 10 seconds and the engine begins to idle on its own, after 2 minutes it responds to throttle opening and closing without a hiccup, I can now set idle anyplace I want and it will sit there and idle away, anything under 1,050 RPM the generator light comes on, so I will set idle at that RPM setting, it sounds normal anyway.

 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 06:17 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Neal Perez
... There has to be a happy medium on adjusting the float and I have to reach it, at a fine point the valve wont allow gas to go on the fuel bowl, just a little the other way I get minor leak from gasket area, ...
I have never had this problem with any of many carbs that i have worked on. I have always set the float according to the spec for the carb and it has been good.

Cut out a piece of cereal box type cardboard 40mm wide and another 44mm wide. See which fits into the most narrow part of the venturi, and you have your carb size.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #17  
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Default Is There a fuel dye??

I never asked or used it, but is there a FUEL DYE, reason for my asking is I think the little wetness around the rear of the fuel bowl is coming from somewhere else and I want to make sure.

The carburetor runs like a million dollars, I also placed an air cleaner on it that makes everything look beautiful, as soon as I finish I will be placing photos and a final report.

I have not driven the bike on the street because I don’t have a throttle cable, but this coming week I will take care of that.

 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 05:40 AM
  #18  
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I have used ordinary food coloring in the oils, but have not tried it in the fuel. Perhaps not a good idea - i do not know.

A common technique is to clean it up then spray baby powder on the area. It is quite easy then to spot the path of the leak. Or place paper towels at strategic places. Or just wipe a finger over it and smell it - gas is quite distinctive.
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #19  
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I have run into some of the issues your are having Neal. As far as the cable goes I ordered a single cable with the correct end and it was to long on the exposed end. If you cut the end to shorten it you will have to put a end back on . I am going to swap to dual cable so you don't have to modify the throttle cable just my 2 cents .
T-Ron
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #20  
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Hold on guy before changing the cable!!

JP i know for sure has a CABLE REPAIR KIT its about 60 inches long and has the barrels and everyhting needed, so you just cut the cable to the lenght for your bike and use the outer liner, in my case i got a braided cable just for looks.

The price for that kit from JP is $24.00

I was told and am almost sure by looking at the Carb that the return throttle spring on the CV is so strong that you only need one throtle cable for the mod, just hold on for a few days so i can get this worked out and learn how to save $$$$$$$
 
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