on the way to work. my motor started acting like it was running out of gas.. i switched to reserve still started to bog down so i looked behind me to pull over and i couldn't see the cars behind me it was smoking so bad... the bike had been running great. the only work i did to it was.. kreem the tank, change the oil with 20/50 mobile one synth.. new oil filter, wires, coil,plugs,fuel filter. (history of work done) it broke down two weeks ago, i thought it was the tank, because the liner sagged into the tank. so i rekreemed the tank, new fuel filter. went to start it and it wouldnt start..the float was sticking gas poured out of the overflow tube. took out the plugs and turned it over and gas shot out of the cylinder.. so i dried it out, changed the oil filter, and the oil, the plugs, and it still wouldn't start. so i replaced the coil and wires and it started fine and ran great for a week... today on the way to work. it started to feel like it was running out of gas. i switched to reserve and looked behind me to switch lanes to find a place to pull over and could not see any of the 6 cars that were behind me from the smoke billowing out from the exhaust...it eventually died as i pulled over to the shoulder... im calling a bike shop to come get it and fix it. but before i do.... WHAT HAPPENED? has it exploded the motor?

 

i just checked the oil level and its the same. about one inch on the dip stick and it still smells like oil not gas..also looks like oil

 

do a compression test.... my old 79 model did similar things and it had a hole in a piston

 

The carb and fuel filter are simply clogged up with debris from the Kreem. Do not send it to the shop. Just take off the carb, clean it up, clean the in-tank fuel filter, and you should be good to go.

It has been said many times on these forums over many years, do not use the Kreem product in old, rusty tanks. Use either the POR or the RedKote. Kreem often peels.

Cleaning a Carb

1. Removing it from the bike should be straight forward. First thing when it is out is to check the pilot screw setting. Turn it all the way in until gently seated counting the number of 1/4 turns; then write this number down; then reset it.

2. I put mine in a vice to remove the screws, and for much of the following work. Wrap in a shop towel; close the vice gently taking extra care with the choke and throttle linkages. The vice is a needed extra pair of hands.

EDIT: A better choice than a plain vice ...


Better one ...



3. You must be very careful handling the float so as to not change the level. You should have the official specs for setting the level as in the FM, and check it, every time you dismantle the carb, as the last thing before putting it back together.

4. The jets are made of brass, a soft metal that is easily damaged. Use an exact correct size screwdriver. I ground a medium flat blade screwdriver down to exact size on my bench grinder to access the slow jet.

5. The general appearance of the inside of the carb is not necessarily a good indication of its condition. It can look spotless and have clogged jets, or look cruddy and have clear jets.

6. Clean each individual part. Do not allow any solvents to contact any rubber parts [tip of needle, o-ring seal for bowl]

7. Make a list of all of the jets and passages for your carb using the carb manual or the FM for the bike. Then ensure that you can blow either compressed air or carb cleaner thru each one.

8. Remove the pilot screw and clean the parts and the passage. The passage contains in this sequence: pilot screw, spring, washer, o-ring. These are very small parts, especially the washer and o-ring. Usually the spring will easily fall out. One time i thought the spring was not in there because it would not fall out; i obtained a new spring and could not get it in! The technique for removing the washer and o-ring is to use a pipe cleaner: stick it in the hole, twist it around, remove it - you should see the washer and o-ring on the end of the pipe cleaner.

EDIT: the washer and o-ring are part of the pilot screw assembly for 1979 on. They are not in the 1978 and earlier Keihin carbs.

Remember that the purpose of the washer is to protect the o-ring from the spring and you will always get them back in in the correct sequence.

9. Dismantle the accelerator pump assembly noting carefully the sequence and orientation of the parts. Clean and inspect the parts. Replace the diaphragm if it is cracked.

10. Check the float level then carefully put it back together. I personally find it very confusing trying to decide which way to bend the tang if it is not correct. If the fuel level is low is the float high or low? Do i need to bend the tang up or down? On the bench the carb is usually upside down, adding to the confusion. Sort all this out before making an adjustment.

Best to replace the original Phillips screws for the bowl with stainless steel socket head screws.

 

The smoke was probably from lots of fuel contaminated oil getting past the rings. Change the oil and go for a test ride. Do not take it to a shop until you are absolutely certain of what is the problem. The shop will cost you hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

First determine exactly what is the problem[s] with the help of these forums. Then do all of the dismantling yourself. Bring to the shop only the parts that need service. Put it back together yourself.

You need the factory service manual 99484-85, the factory parts catalog 99451-85A, and the help of these forums. The manuals are commonly available from a local indie shop, HD dealer, eBay, internet sellers, J&P Cycles, etc.

Do not let anyone "intimidate" you into not doing the work yourself!!!

 

thanks Mick i'll get to it right now...
about the oil: i changed everything after the flooding incident...oil,filter,plugs... does it normally two times to clean the gas out?

 

oh and i replaced the petcock, which also has a new intank filter... also when i kreemed the tank... not that might make a difference i just want to give you all the facts in this case...

 

i just started it and it still starts.. some smoke comes out of the pipes and a tun of smoke pours out of the hose that comes from the crank case hose that goes into the carb a white/gray smoke..

 

just for kicks i removed the plugs and rolled up the pistons to check with a mag lite the top of the pistons and there fine as far as a hole in the top.. short of a little white powder looking stuff on the top they look good... wasn't even any oil on the top's

 

I quit using tank liners years ago: too many problems when they eventually break down (and they all do, in my experience). I put 6 gallon tanks on my FLSTC 2 years ago: acid etched them and then just keep 'em full. When I have them off, and dry, I put a couple of ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in them: no rust to date.
Good luck !