Here is an update...I adjusted the valves and poured some sea foam into the cylinder. New psi check on rear is up at 150 with the engine stone cold. Question is this acceptable? Next issue is the bike starts rough and now shuts off. White smoke out of the Carb and leak fuel out of the Carb some. Front muffler shoots flames out of it. So I guess I'm having curb issues !?! Oh and one more thing I really appreciate all the help so far. It looks like I oh Ironmick a donut eh!

 

I'll repeat this part of my previous post ...

However, 150 psi cold w/oil indicates a good cylinder. I'll collect my doughnut sometime, eh.

... White smoke out of the Carb and leak fuel out of the Carb some. Front muffler shoots flames ...

Some of the poor running might be from the sea foam. Next is to check the ignition timing ...

Checking/Setting The Ignition Timing on Your IronHead

1. Checking vs Setting the Ignition Timing

You can check the timing without changing anything. Changing the timing can be done by one person but is easier with two. The ignition module or points is on the right side of the bike, the timing hole is on the left side. Easier with one person on each side than to go back and forth. Standard advance for the 1980 XL is 40`. I have mine set at about 35`. At 38` i get pinging.

2. Equipment That You Need

You need an induction timing light which you can buy at any auto supply store. Best to get the "dial back" type. These allow you to set a number [like 35`] into the timing light and then adjust the ignition module/points backplate until you are there.

If you have very well insulated spark plug wires the timing light may not sense the signal thru the wire. If this is the case then open the gap on the spark plug to 050 or more. Reset it to your normal gap [030 for points or 040 for electronic] when done with this procedure.

The induction clip is heat sensitive. The timing light will work better if the clip is wrapped in a shop towel to protect it from the engine heat.

It also helps to have a throttle lock as the timing should be checked/set with the engine at 2500 RPM.

You will need a piece of rubber oil line hose about 1 inch long. Press one end up against the side of a stone grinding wheel [or whatever] to make sure it is perfectly flat.

3. Front Cylinder: TDC Mark vs Advance Timing Mark

The TDC [Top Dead Center] mark is used with a dial back timing light to check the timing, or to set the timing at a specific degree, such as 37`. The advance timing mark is used to set the timing to the factory setting, such as 40`. Best is to use a dial back timing light to check or set timing.

4. To Identify Your Front Cylinder TDC Timing Mark

Remove spark plugs. Rear wheel off the ground, shift to 2nd gear, rotate wheel until it clicks, repeat until you get to top gear. Now by rotating the rear wheel you are rotating the engine. Almost impossible with the plugs in; very difficult in lower gears.

You want the front cyl to be at TDC. You can see in thru the spark plug hole, especially with a flash light. Helps to have a good wingspan, or an extra person.

With the piston at precisely TDC look in thru the timing hole. You should see a drilled dot or a line. That is your front cylinder TDC mark. Once you know for certain what the TDC mark looks like you can check the timing.

5. Procedure, Checking The Timing

Begin with the engine at operating temperature. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine. Insert the 1" hose smooth end first, right tight up against the flywheel. I use a needle nose plier and twist it in there as firmly as i can. If it is not smooth and tight against the flywheel oil will spray out while you are working.

Start the engine, have it at about 2500 RPM [it will be extra noisy with the timing plug out], set the timing light at 40`, aim it into the timing hole thru the hose. Click it down one degree at a time while you look for the timing mark. If you don't find it you may have to work up from 40`.

If it is in the 35` to 40` range and there is no pinging then you may wish to leave it as is. With pinging on acceleration you may want to retard it by about 1/16 of an inch or less [see Math below].

6. Procedure, Setting the Timing

Remove the points cover from the right side. You will be rotating the back plate so first mark it so you can get back to the current position if needed. Make a scratch mark or use a permanent magic marker, or better still a small bright red or whatever color paint mark.

To change the timing loosen the two standoffs holding the points/ignition module and rotate the backplate. Clockwise advances [larger degree number] counter-clockwise retards [smaller degree number].

7. Some Math, How Much to Rotate

The backplate has a 3" diameter = 1.5" radius.
The circumference = 2 * pi * radius = 2 * 3.14 * 1.5 inches = 9.42 inches
The circumference = 9.42 * 16 ~= 151 sixteenths of an inch.

One rotation of the backplate corresponds to two rotations of the engine, so it is like a circle that has 2 * 360 = 720 degrees. 720 / 151 ~= 5

Therefore a rotation of the backplate by about 1/16 of an inch results in a timing change of almost 5 degrees!

 

Thanks IronMick I have some work to do..I will report my findings. Who makes the best donuts in Canada?

 

Much better. Did you do the same for both or just the rear Jugg? You want to see the Juggs within 10% of each other. but, I'd still run it for the season and sort out other issues.

oh I just noticed you are from the south and you don't have a 'maintenance' season like we do up here.

Sounds like the carb is a good place to start. If you don't have a manual it is a good time to get one. Only work on one thing at a time. If your starting with the carb you want to get it set up correctly. good idea to take it apart, clean it, measure the float, replace worn parts. Re-install carefully...if this doesn't change the way it runs then move on to ignition.....but don't change ignition and carb at the same time. If you get one incorrectly set...you will have a difficult time figuring out where the mistake was made.

 

do what he says. He knows better.

 

OK I will start with timing and go from there. I have a manual and the weather down here is pretty much good all year round. This is my first Harley and I haven't ridden in years can't wait to get it going.

 

Ok...I have always been told that they way to check if you have bad rings was to put oil in the cylinder and if the compression goes up it is your rings. Yes?

On the other hand, you did this with the engine stone cold which is a no-no. Like Mick said, fully warmed up and wide open throttle. (dont forget the grounded plugs if it is electronic ignition).

The first time I checked mine it was cold and my heart sunk. Then I read my manual and the world was a better place!

 

If Mick is like everyone else I know in Canada, he is addicted to Timmy's (Tim Horton's) eh?

 

I do mine cold all the time. The reason....because i hate trying to get out hot plugs and put in the tester in hot Juggs...doesn't matter how carefull I am I will get burnt, the plug will get dropped or...

Once you have done it a few times you get to know what is normal for your bike. Mine is kick only...I can feel if the pushrods are in need of adjustment. A quick compression test will usually verify this and identify the problem cylinder. A good motor will kick up to 150psi in 5 or 6 kicks on both Juggs...even cold.