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Engine problems, please help... getting desperate

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:36 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine problems, please help... getting desperate

So I recently performed an MM-EFI to carb conversion, I'm not an HD mechanic, but not an amateur either. Swapped the ignition for points, the EFI for a CV off a 95 Roadking.

Bike fired the first try, but was rough as hell. The advance cam was off center, narrow lobe .018, wide lobe +.006-.009 wider. I couldn't get it smoothed out, so I replaced the points with a Daytona TwinTec VT-i.

The carb was bone stock, so during the rebuild, I swapped out a #45 slow and #185 main jet. Stock needle. New coil, new wires (and old, same symptoms) new plugs.

Here I am, a couple weeks later, bike runs, but idles rough. I can close the mix screw all the way, and after a few seconds it will die, but throughout the range, no change in smoothness from almost in to all the way out and about to fall out.

The front cylinder is firing crisp, steady and clean. Rear cylinder feels like it's either missing a bunch, or firing a little. Took a test ride, and while it accelerates like a bat out of hell, like holy crap great, it stutters and stammers and misfires at idle or at steady throttle.

This morning I found and fixed an intake leak on the rear head, didn't fix the problem. Talked to my mechanic friend, he said the idle air circuit is f***ed (carb came without the lead plug, someone jacked with it perhaps).

Could a screwed up idle circuit cause the rear cylinder to misfire but not the front?

Anything else to check for, look at? I'll order a carb this week, but I don't want to drop a few hundred bucks if it isn't going to fix it. I may have missed something trying to keep it brief, let me know if there's something else to consider or more info needed.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 01:08 AM
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Sounds like you may still have an intake air leak. However, it also sounds like you know more about this than me.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 01:17 AM
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Hmmm, intake leak isn't showing, easily at least, I guess I could try harder. I do wonder if there's an exhaust leak, if that could do it...
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 02:11 AM
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You could try using a known working carb and see if that helps, and go from there. You could also try going with a smaller slow jet, #40 or #42 and that may help as well. Hope it works out for ya.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 02:21 AM
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I was thinking of putting the #42 back in, but the later carbs came with a #45, no? I figured with straight pipes and open air cleaner plus an EV27 I'd need more than the older stock slow jet.

I don't have a known good carb available. checked with everyone I know, couldn't come up with one. I was thinking about a new carb this summer, I'll do it now, but I'm a bit concerned it's not the fix I need, that it's really something else.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:13 AM
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Have you tried the wd40 trick? With it idling spray it anywhere there could possibly be a leak. If the idle cleans up, there is your leak.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:23 AM
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I'm no expert, but an exhaust leak is the first thing that springs to mind.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:24 AM
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Used carb cleaner, didn't have any WD40 in a spray can handy. That's how I found the initial leak, didn't make any change I could tell. Hit around the o-rings and the carb to manifold seal, as well as around the carb itself.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Very High Plain Drifter
I'm no expert, but an exhaust leak is the first thing that springs to mind.
Might it be more pronounced with a carb than with the MM EFI? Hard to say if it ran similarly idle-wise, as the EFI ran at 1k RPM vs the few hundred the carb runs.
 
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:33 AM
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Is the choke shutting off 100%? Should have good adjustment using mixture screw. Sounds as though pilot/slow jet is too big. Is the carb super clean inside? I know, dumb questions but a small piece of dirt restricting air flow in an idle circuit can cause havoc.
 



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