adjustable Bendix Z
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
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From: north carolina
adjustable Bendix Z
1973 xlch,craps out,sputters,breaks up when you get on the gas.i have HD service manual 70 to 78 and other old manual that actually from england. neither seem to explain adjustment for bendix with both jets being adjustable. lowspeed is 1 1/2 turns out, main jet is 4 turns out have made idle adj with throttle stop screw and haven't had alot of luck. do i need to lean out the main jet or? thanks
I have no experience with the Bendix, but if you put it into the forum search, where it says Search this Forum, you will get lots of threads.
Last edited by IronMick; Oct 15, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
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From: north carolina
thanks,i looked at alot of old post.where i keep getting stuck is,on non adjustable carb the manuals,other people say the throttle stop screw is the main adjuster not the low speed on top of carb. on adjustable carb no one seems to say that many adjustments are being made using the stop screw? 
Here's some from the Stickys on the other IronHead forum ...
ReBuilding the Bendix Carb
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=941501
Bendix Carb
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=596371
Setting the Bendix
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1294700
ReBuilding the Bendix Carb
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=941501
Bendix Carb
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=596371
Setting the Bendix
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1294700
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: rural ontario
1973 xlch,craps out,sputters,breaks up when you get on the gas.i have HD service manual 70 to 78 and other old manual that actually from england. neither seem to explain adjustment for bendix with both jets being adjustable. lowspeed is 1 1/2 turns out, main jet is 4 turns out have made idle adj with throttle stop screw and haven't had alot of luck. do i need to lean out the main jet or? thanks
Is the carb new to the bike? Is this a recent developement? Have you changed anything in the recent past? what brought you to the conclusion that it is the carb? How do the plugs look?
I'd start with the tuning before messing with the carb if the bike was fine with the carb previous to this issue. If the issue is tuning and you alter the carb settings then you will be chasing your tail when your trying to figure this out.
Put a mark (red paint -- something easy to see) on the main jet adjustment and try and adjust as you ride; returning the mark to it's original spot if there is no improvement.
s
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: north carolina
bike is a reborn. bought,got running,just put back on the road.all seems fine until you try to get on the gas,so just trying to fine tune the carb after rebuilding.plugs are blackish.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: rural ontario
k
blackish can mean rich.
can mean you idle a lot too...
carb came with(was on the bike)?
did you have it apart too (carb)?
If you are confident the tuning/timing is good, and carb adjustments don't improve the way it runs; you could also look at the condition of the main jet 'o' ring and/or float level.
Because you indicate it happens when you accel; you should also check the throttle pump (it may have dried up/shrunk/not sealing well) and blow out the fuel channel in the bottom of the bowl for the throttle pump to ensure good fuel flow. You want a good solid squirt when you twist the throttle
s
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: rural ontario
The link to 'Setting the Bendix' that mick posted has a good post of a copy of a mag article that has a blurb about tuning. If I recall you will have to slide the view to the right and it is highlighted in grey.
EDIT--Oops in the bendix carb link. Here is the post...gotta scroll to the right to see it tho.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...7&postcount=18
s
EDIT--Oops in the bendix carb link. Here is the post...gotta scroll to the right to see it tho.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...7&postcount=18
s
Last edited by scottfisher; Oct 16, 2012 at 07:33 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 645
Likes: 215
From: Minneapolis
I have this same setup on my ironhead. I have tuned mine with an a/f meter, with interesting results...
Heed my advice and your bike will run well.
First thing, adjust the idle mixture. Start at 1.5 turns from light seat. Get the bike good and warm, then adjust the idle screw. Turn it in until it slows down, then turn it out until it starts to slow down again, the correct setting will be in between the two spots.
4 turns out on the main will be super rich, and it will act just as you describe. With mine set at that, it was in the 9.5-10:1 range. It's ok to start there though. Take the bike on the road, put it in 2nd gear and crack it wide open, bring it up to 5 or 6000 rpms. If it pukes and hesitates, screw the main in a 1/4 turn and repeat. Do this until it will rev from 3000-6000 with no missing. That will be on the rich side of the range. You can then either leave it, or fine tune 1/8 turn at a time. I would guess you will be around 1-1.5 turns from bottomed against the spring.
I would then reset the idle mixture.
It really is that easy.
One thing you need to make sure of, is that the oring on the bowl screw ( the one on the tube) is the correct size and good. If not, fuel will suck past it and you will always run rich.
Heed my advice and your bike will run well.
First thing, adjust the idle mixture. Start at 1.5 turns from light seat. Get the bike good and warm, then adjust the idle screw. Turn it in until it slows down, then turn it out until it starts to slow down again, the correct setting will be in between the two spots.
4 turns out on the main will be super rich, and it will act just as you describe. With mine set at that, it was in the 9.5-10:1 range. It's ok to start there though. Take the bike on the road, put it in 2nd gear and crack it wide open, bring it up to 5 or 6000 rpms. If it pukes and hesitates, screw the main in a 1/4 turn and repeat. Do this until it will rev from 3000-6000 with no missing. That will be on the rich side of the range. You can then either leave it, or fine tune 1/8 turn at a time. I would guess you will be around 1-1.5 turns from bottomed against the spring.
I would then reset the idle mixture.
It really is that easy.
One thing you need to make sure of, is that the oring on the bowl screw ( the one on the tube) is the correct size and good. If not, fuel will suck past it and you will always run rich.
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