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Checked all the teeth on the ring gear and the starter, dentist says no cavities. It's acting as if the solenoid is disengaging but the starter is still spinning, it's weird as $h!+, never seen anything like it before. Replaced the old starter relay with the Bosch style relay, we'll see how that works out.
I would refurbish both the starter and the solenoid. For each: uninstall, dismantle, clean, inspect, reassemble, reinstall.
Each of these is tedious to refurbish. Parts are spring loaded, come apart relatively easily, but need extra patience and care keeping track and reassembling. Take detail pictures as you go along.
Took your advice IronMick, took apart the old solenoid that took a shizz, and the new one that wouldn't hold. Swapped a the plunger from the old on into the new one because the springs on the new one were CRAP! Solenoid holds like a champ now. Starter wasn't bad at all cleaned up the armature a bit where the brushes make contact and re-seated the brushes.
On a low note, the battery is technically dead (12.25V; where as full is @12.75) so I don't have enough juice to turn anything over with any real authority. Charging overnight, and try it in the mornin is what this old wrench has ordered. Thanks a bunch fellas!
Just did the bench test you posted IronMick. Don't know why but the pull-in coil and holding coil aren't doing jack! Is there a solution to that or should I just buy another solenoid.
If those coils are broken internally then the unit is toast. Buy a new one is the only option.
There is a rebuild kit that you can use if the coils are good and the problem is other parts worn out. I still do not recommend using the kit as it requires soldering a replacement part in such a way that the unit cannot be dismantled and repaired again. So a new one is eventually needed anyway. And the kit is a real PITA to install.
Actually the kit is good if you have broken the plastic cap and the rest is still ok, as the kit contains a new cap.
Took your advice IronMick, took apart the old solenoid that took a shizz, and the new one that wouldn't hold. Swapped a the plunger from the old on into the new one because the springs on the new one were CRAP! Solenoid holds like a champ now. Starter wasn't bad at all cleaned up the armature a bit where the brushes make contact and re-seated the brushes.
On a low note, the battery is technically dead (12.25V; where as full is @12.75) so I don't have enough juice to turn anything over with any real authority. Charging overnight, and try it in the mornin is what this old wrench has ordered. Thanks a bunch fellas!
You just gotta keep livin: L-I-V-I-N!
On my Ironhead, THREE different batteries I've had all showed around 12.3 volts except right after charging one. I have finally decided that is good enough for the old girl.
Oh, right now I have a battery from advance auto that goes in an Ultra Classic laying on it's side. I have a small block of wood keeping the terminals away from the chrome cover on the left side. It has been in there over a year now. Plenty of cold cranking amps and hasn't hurt the charging system either.
Regarding the battery and 12 volts - The battery must be capable of ...
1. taking a charge
2. holding a charge at rest
3. holding a charge while cranking
If a battery is not capable of taking a charge either the battery or the charger or both will get hot [not just warm] while on the charger. If left too long either will get wrecked.
If a battery is not capable of holding a charge it will lose that charge while sitting overnight. If it is installed in the bike this symptom usually means the regulator is bad, but the battery is probably good.
If connected to a voltmeter and the voltage goes below 10 volts while cranking then there may not be enough volts to run an electronic ignition and the battery is no good. This is equivalent to a load test.
One thing to check also if it(battery voltage) dropped while in the bike, remove the negative cable, then touch it back to the battery. If you get a spark, some thing is drawing the battery down.
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