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I check the battery occasionally since the bike hasn't been running on the regular, it holds a good charge for a few weeks before it drops below 12.5V and won't even turn over.
I know there's no constant draw for 2 reasons:
1. I made the harness myself and double check it every time to make sure nothing is crossing.
And 2. I've done a load test with the key off; zilched out, no draw.
I've got a better solenoid on its way, gonna bench test it before putting it on to get a baseline, just to be sure it works BEFORE I put it on, unlike the last one. Fingers crossed that I'll be knees into the wind within a week or so.
Got the new accel solenoid in today (figured spend the extra coin and get an actual name brand, one that I trust. Bench tested it, works flawlessly. Installed on Crazyhorse, tried to start it, a little better than before, but still not turning the bike over. Did the "load test" IronMick said to try on the battery. Yeah..... BINGO, the battery can't handle the load. It dips to 10.2 V ( I'm assuming it'd go even lower if it would continue engagement) for a split second then back up to 11V and not engaging. Pull the plug and it turns the engine over no problem with a steady 10.8-10.9V. I'm guessing it just doesn't have the amps anymore. Does anybody know off hand what CCA a 1000cc ironhead needs? I'm gonna try what 98Ultra did with his, smaller lighter, higher amp battery in the old boy.
Got the new accel solenoid in today (figured spend the extra coin and get an actual name brand, one that I trust. Bench tested it, works flawlessly. Installed on Crazyhorse, tried to start it, a little better than before, but still not turning the bike over. Did the "load test" IronMick said to try on the battery. Yeah..... BINGO, the battery can't handle the load. It dips to 10.2 V ( I'm assuming it'd go even lower if it would continue engagement) for a split second then back up to 11V and not engaging. Pull the plug and it turns the engine over no problem with a steady 10.8-10.9V. I'm guessing it just doesn't have the amps anymore. Does anybody know off hand what CCA a 1000cc ironhead needs? I'm gonna try what 98Ultra did with his, smaller lighter, higher amp battery in the old boy.
You just gotta keep livin: L-I-V-I-N!
I've read of people using the same battery as the V-Rod but I went with one for an Ultra Classic. I didn't save much weight, if any but I don't have battery acid leaking out on my bike any more.
The one for the Ultra is a jell type and I have it mounted on it's side.
Every Ironhead I've had seemed to need a huge battery to turn it over while my friend with an Evo will spin over like a sewing machine.
The size of the battery doesn't make it more powerful. It's the cranking amps that gives it the power. The size of the battery indicates the reserve power, in other words, how long it can draw the maximum amperage before it needs to be recharged because of the amount of area the plates inside have. But with AGM batterys, they have the same plate area but due to the way that the plates are manufactured or put together inside the battery itself. They can be half the size of another battery with the same power and reserve.
Case in point, I had a Buell Blast a couple years ago and when I was working in my old man's Shovelhead, and the old battery in the Shovelhead had cratered, wouldn't hold a charge for jack! So just to see if it'd work, I pulled the tiny by comparison battery off the Buell and it turned that old bike over harder and faster than the old one did even when it the battery was new. So I'm kinda wondering whether the same type of battery would do on old Crazyhorse.
+1 on the V-Rod battery. Several guys on these forums are using them. One guy puts it into the OEM battery box along with a tool box he made to fit the extra space.
For sure.
I checked on that battery but the Ultra battery from Advance auto was cheaper and had more Cold Cranking Amps if I remember right. Too many beers ago.
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