basic ironhead questions
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: TEXAS
basic ironhead questions
I have a couple basic ironhead questions. I hope they dont seem too stupid but here they are.
Well first, i bought an 80 ironhead close to a year ago. it wasn't running and i got a great deal on it. All i have really done is get it running and basicaly i just ride it around town, but i really do like riding it , it is fun as hell and gets alot of looks.
with alittle help from here this is what i have done to get it running better. basic tune up. New points, weights and advance plate, spark plugs, set timing, rebuilt starter and bought a rebuilt generator and a new stator. Now it is running pretty good. and i put a set of tires on it
and i bought a service manual
it has s&s carburator
1) when taking off in first gear i really have to give it alot of gas and let out the clutch real slow or it will stall. also have to roll the throttle pretty easy or it will hiccup and try to die
2 ) the book says to regularly check pushrod adjustment. It says to make the adjustment with valve closed. Do you rotated the motor untill the pushrod is at its highest point then adjust it, then do the same to all the rods?
3) i have just been toping it off with cheap 50w oil. What type of oil vescasity and type do yall use in motor and primary/tranny?
4) are all chain lubes equal?
5) besides basic tools, what do yu carry in your tool bag? all i have in there is a set of plugs
6)what about electrinc ignitions? is it worth it and if so what do yall use?
Well first, i bought an 80 ironhead close to a year ago. it wasn't running and i got a great deal on it. All i have really done is get it running and basicaly i just ride it around town, but i really do like riding it , it is fun as hell and gets alot of looks.
with alittle help from here this is what i have done to get it running better. basic tune up. New points, weights and advance plate, spark plugs, set timing, rebuilt starter and bought a rebuilt generator and a new stator. Now it is running pretty good. and i put a set of tires on it
and i bought a service manual
it has s&s carburator
1) when taking off in first gear i really have to give it alot of gas and let out the clutch real slow or it will stall. also have to roll the throttle pretty easy or it will hiccup and try to die
2 ) the book says to regularly check pushrod adjustment. It says to make the adjustment with valve closed. Do you rotated the motor untill the pushrod is at its highest point then adjust it, then do the same to all the rods?
3) i have just been toping it off with cheap 50w oil. What type of oil vescasity and type do yall use in motor and primary/tranny?
4) are all chain lubes equal?
5) besides basic tools, what do yu carry in your tool bag? all i have in there is a set of plugs
6)what about electrinc ignitions? is it worth it and if so what do yall use?
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 791
From: Heart of Dixie
What kind of S&S carb is on it? #1 sounds like a carb tuning problem.
The lifters need to be at their lowest point to adjust the valves, and the motor needs to be cold. They don't generally require frequent adjustment, but it's better to adjust them a slight bit looser than the manual says, especially the exhaust valves.
50wt oil is fine. Changing the oil regularly is more important than what brand oil you use.
Bel-Ray Super Clean is a really good chain lube - it doesn't sling off.
I don't carry any tools when I ride.
My Ironhead has the factory electronic ignition, so I can't recommend any aftermarket choices. I'm sure a couple other members will make a few good recommendations, though.
The lifters need to be at their lowest point to adjust the valves, and the motor needs to be cold. They don't generally require frequent adjustment, but it's better to adjust them a slight bit looser than the manual says, especially the exhaust valves.
50wt oil is fine. Changing the oil regularly is more important than what brand oil you use.
Bel-Ray Super Clean is a really good chain lube - it doesn't sling off.
I don't carry any tools when I ride.
My Ironhead has the factory electronic ignition, so I can't recommend any aftermarket choices. I'm sure a couple other members will make a few good recommendations, though.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 133
From: TEXAS
It is an s&s shorty super e, and it runs pretty good as long as I don't whack the throttle, if I hit the throttle hard it will sputter, if I roll it its fine
So basically with the pushrods, they are adjusted at their loosest point, just to where I can turn them freely with my fingers but no up and down. Is that right?
Thanks for the response,
I put adjustable rods in my dyna when a changed the cams and they had really specific directions. I set them and they have been good since, it was like 3 or 4 years ago
I just thought I read to adjust them on the iron head every few thousand
So basically with the pushrods, they are adjusted at their loosest point, just to where I can turn them freely with my fingers but no up and down. Is that right?
Thanks for the response,
I put adjustable rods in my dyna when a changed the cams and they had really specific directions. I set them and they have been good since, it was like 3 or 4 years ago
I just thought I read to adjust them on the iron head every few thousand
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 791
From: Heart of Dixie
Sounds like your accelerator pump needs adjustment...it's either giving you too much or too little gas when you whack the throttle. I think you can find the adjustment instructions on the S&S site.
Yep, pushrod adjustment at the lowest point. I always take the spark plugs out and check when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. The exhaust should be adjusted to spin a bit more freely than the intake, but still with no up & down.
The Dyna probably still had the hydraulic lifters, so they adjust themselves. The Sportster has solid lifters, which need occasional adjustment, but mine are usually fine for 4000 to 5000 miles in between adjustments.
Yep, pushrod adjustment at the lowest point. I always take the spark plugs out and check when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. The exhaust should be adjusted to spin a bit more freely than the intake, but still with no up & down.
The Dyna probably still had the hydraulic lifters, so they adjust themselves. The Sportster has solid lifters, which need occasional adjustment, but mine are usually fine for 4000 to 5000 miles in between adjustments.
... 1) when taking off in first gear i really have to give it alot of gas and let out the clutch real slow or it will stall. also have to roll the throttle pretty easy or it will hiccup and try to die
2 ) the book says to regularly check pushrod adjustment. It says to make the adjustment with valve closed. Do you rotated the motor untill the pushrod is at its highest point then adjust it, then do the same to all the rods?
3) i have just been toping it off with cheap 50w oil. What type of oil vescasity and type do yall use in motor and primary/tranny?
4) are all chain lubes equal?
5) besides basic tools, what do yu carry in your tool bag? all i have in there is a set of plugs
6)what about electrinc ignitions? is it worth it and if so what do yall use?
2 ) the book says to regularly check pushrod adjustment. It says to make the adjustment with valve closed. Do you rotated the motor untill the pushrod is at its highest point then adjust it, then do the same to all the rods?
3) i have just been toping it off with cheap 50w oil. What type of oil vescasity and type do yall use in motor and primary/tranny?
4) are all chain lubes equal?
5) besides basic tools, what do yu carry in your tool bag? all i have in there is a set of plugs
6)what about electrinc ignitions? is it worth it and if so what do yall use?
2. Pushrod adjust is done with the engine stone cold. I get everything ready in the evening then do the check/adjust in the morning.
When adjusting any one pushrod, you set the same one [intake or exhaust] on the other cylinder so that its lifter is at the highest point, then adjust the one. Repeat for all 4.
3. Most common choice for an IronHead is 50W for normal use, 60W in very hot climates, 20W50 for very cold; not synthetic.
4. +1 on Bel-Ray Super Clean [make sure it actually says SuperClean on the label!]
5. A wrench or a screwdriver for any fastener that might come loose.
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