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Hey all, 1941 FL. For 10+ years I have not had to adjust my primary oiler, always left a half dollar spot on the ground after stopping for a break. This is what many have called the perfect adjustment. On my ride last sunday I stopped for a break and noticed a maybe 4" puddle/spot. Way more than usual. Did some **** just break loose in the needle orifice allowing more flow or is there something else I should be looking at. I don't run an oil filter because I like the bike correct so the oil gets dumped fairly often and it's not a daily rider. Any thoughts? Oh yea, it was enough oil slingin around in there that some found it's way into the clutch basket so that's apart being cleaned up.
The oiler adjustment is about as easy as can be, just remove the screw and add or substract washers/spacers.
I was told 2 drips per minute is about right. My bike was doing about 20 drops per minute and leaving a mess in her wake. After removing some spacers I got her down to the 2 drips and all has been well since.
For me (WL 45) I found it easy to just remove the primary chain cover and go for a ride. After 15 minutes pulled over and with a stop watch counted drips. Repeated until I got her adjusted the way I wanted her to be.
All of that said, unless the screw fell out, no reason why the adjustment should change. Do you look to see if the screw is still there.?
If it is, your leak is likely from somewhere else. Again, take primary chain cover off and go for a ride. Clean everything up first. Good luck.
Even tho you change the oil a lot a piece of grit could have gotten under the oil tank ball check at the oil pump - will it pass maybe - you Said it did it once when you stopped for a while — now parked is it still over dropping - ??????????
if so the ball and spring could be changed out - nothing lasts for ever
Architect, screw is there, haven't needed to touch it for over 10 years. Gonna remove it though and have a looksy. John, very possible on the check ball. First gonna check oil is returning to the tank. Then the screw. I like your method arch of leaving the cover off the checking it to adjust. Thanks gentlemen, good advice as always.
The screw has 9 .002 shims, one fiber type shim and the washer. Fired her up cold and there is return oil to the tank but at the oiler it's about a drop every 2-3 seconds. Yikes. Shut it off as it was making a mess. Researching what to try next as something is definitely amiss......
Not un common for an early engine to change What it was doing to something it never did before - nature of the beast
use around 1/2 the number of washers and see what it does now
thinner oil or a different type oil - was used maybe - smell the oil in the engine for a gas smell - that would be a carb needle and seat and or the float
only use a stainless needle and a rubber ducky float -
Thanks John, same old 60W oil, didn't smell for any fuel though, good idea. I'll cut down on the shims and see what happens. Left it to go for a long ride on a sunny day yesterday. Springtime is here...........
That is about how many shims I had on my bike, plus an odd lock washer. I started by removing lock washer and half the shims, then went from there. it only took about 3 tries before I got her right. Good luck.
Update...........I installed the screw and gently tightened until it bottomed out on the seat. Then, tried to put the washer in the gap that was left. No go, which means with just the washer, the needle is off the seat. I worked it with shims until it was essentially closed off and still over oiling. Johnjz, I'm not understanding what difference the check ball and spring would have on the situation??? I've studied that oil flow diagram in the service manual until my brain hurt. If I understand it right, the primary chain oiler is just downstream from the line that feeds the timing gears. Is this why people convert to belt drive? Har.........
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