Primary Chain Oiler
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Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 931
Likes: 112
From: Oregon
I can't believe I'm still fighting this. A few weeks ago I took out all the shims and washer, tightened down the screw and almost no oil dripping on the chain. Finally. Found a real thin washer, about .040 thick, too much oil. Took out all shims and the washer and ran the screw down tight. Well, snug anyway, still drips every 5 seconds. Damnit, this is driving me crazy, it has to be something else. Johnjz, not understanding how the breather affects this??? That one line going to the primary chain oiler is simply interrupted by the screw. I'm missing something.....................
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
What happens is the breather seal is all important in the system - when the breather percentage is off on the low side the abundance of trapped oil in the blocks breather cavity - this affects efficiency - dirt from wear in the engine play a big part in this
so when this happened the breather leaves behind more oil in the vent blocks slot and cavity - this oil being more then usual - Y the breather is not doing its full job
then add that to the oil pump feeding the same system and now you get a bigger mess - some you can slow it down some but usually you cant stop - but a part in the engine needs replacement ( the breather in a S&S special ) for a guess it might fix it not a it will
the S&S breather valve we use has an elongated sip slot just for this issue - what it does it increases the time the breather valve sucks on the blocks cavity slot from the flywheels oil return - most cases if the engines breather bore is in good shape you can use the original hole - if not they make a .030 OS valve and it can be done in the chassis - but you need to be vigilant with the alloy debris from the tool doing its job we run vacuums couple - tape off everything and watch whats going on
so when this happened the breather leaves behind more oil in the vent blocks slot and cavity - this oil being more then usual - Y the breather is not doing its full job
then add that to the oil pump feeding the same system and now you get a bigger mess - some you can slow it down some but usually you cant stop - but a part in the engine needs replacement ( the breather in a S&S special ) for a guess it might fix it not a it will
the S&S breather valve we use has an elongated sip slot just for this issue - what it does it increases the time the breather valve sucks on the blocks cavity slot from the flywheels oil return - most cases if the engines breather bore is in good shape you can use the original hole - if not they make a .030 OS valve and it can be done in the chassis - but you need to be vigilant with the alloy debris from the tool doing its job we run vacuums couple - tape off everything and watch whats going on
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Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 931
Likes: 112
From: Oregon
John, circling back to this problem. Don't worry, I run the bike periodically and have marine grade Stabil added to all my cans. Reading up and another forum someone suggested that it might be sumping some. Grit in the oil pump check ball? That oil pump is around 40+ years old. Bike was restored by 4th owner, I'm the sixth, about 38 years ago. Wondering if I should just change out that pump?
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