To seize or not to seize, thats the question
#11
My point is, people would serve themselves better if they put general questions in a general area, rather than bike specific. Engine is an engine, but people will ask an engine question in a bike specifc area. Ya maybe difference, but if your bike don't start, it is probably not unique to softails.
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#13
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#14
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#15
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#16
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#17
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#18
I started out worked in a shop in my early days changing tires. Big fun.
You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.
Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.
Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#19
+1 on anti-seize, really makes a difference. I bought a tube of the copper anti-seize stuff which is the high temp version and use it liberally. I especially like it on the derby cover screws and laugh when I hear I need to use blue loctite instead. Never had a derby screw come loose and oh so easy to remove. Anti-seize is your friend!
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)
#20
I started out worked in a shop in my early days changing tires. Big fun.
You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.
Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.
Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
Not seen to many garage queens but I really don't see how an garage queen can have issues from sitting.. Maybe not enough or some really cheap grease?
Well I spent the first half of my MC mechanic working on Oahu.. Everything there gets wet and rusty, No issues with axles using a good grease..
Heck, about a year ago I when to change the swingarm bearings on my EGC, pivot axle had been greased about 4-5 years before. It slid right out..
If you look at the application web site You'l see the primary ingredient is a high quality grease. It's main function is to act as antiseize up to 400F.
https://www.impomag.com/article/2013...lue-anti-seize
Choosing Your Anti-Seize
Anti-seize formulations consist of two stages of lubrication. High quality grease serves as a base lubricant up to 400 degrees F, and lubricating solids suspended in the grease serve up to 2,400 degrees F. When the temperatures of the joint exceed 400 degrees F, the grease dissipates and the remaining lubricating solids, which have now softened, plate the surfaces.
Anti-seize formulations consist of two stages of lubrication. High quality grease serves as a base lubricant up to 400 degrees F, and lubricating solids suspended in the grease serve up to 2,400 degrees F. When the temperatures of the joint exceed 400 degrees F, the grease dissipates and the remaining lubricating solids, which have now softened, plate the surfaces.
The only real problem I have with using the stuff is that it's messy. I do use it on exhaust flange nuts, compression releases, spark-plugs and 02 sensers. Heck back in the leaded fuel / points ignition days I used motor oil on the plugs. Antisleeze wasn't needed because the plug didn't last long enough to evaporate the oil.
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smokingjoe (06-11-2017)