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To seize or not to seize, thats the question

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  #11  
Old 06-10-2017, 03:32 PM
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My point is, people would serve themselves better if they put general questions in a general area, rather than bike specific. Engine is an engine, but people will ask an engine question in a bike specifc area. Ya maybe difference, but if your bike don't start, it is probably not unique to softails.
 
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Old 06-10-2017, 03:49 PM
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The service manual says to use anti-seize so that's what I use.
 
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2017, 03:52 PM
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I use lots of anti seize, cause it was a MFer getting it when previous owner had new tres put on at dealer, from the factory, and it hasn't since.
 
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2017, 03:55 PM
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After having the go caveman on a few axles over the decades you learn to anti-seize anything close tolerance that slip fits together and is stationary or long periods between services.
 
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2017, 03:59 PM
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Ya. Rubber mallets, hammers and blocks of wood, just the hammer, bars, ect. Twisting, pounding, and cursing.
 
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  #16  
Old 06-10-2017, 04:12 PM
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No need to use antisleeze when grease works just as well. Axles slide right out..
 
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Old 06-10-2017, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
No need to use antisleeze when grease works just as well. Axles slide right out..
No reason not to use it either.
 
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Old 06-10-2017, 04:29 PM
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I started out worked in a shop in my early days changing tires. Big fun.

You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.

Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
 
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2017, 05:12 PM
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+1 on anti-seize, really makes a difference. I bought a tube of the copper anti-seize stuff which is the high temp version and use it liberally. I especially like it on the derby cover screws and laugh when I hear I need to use blue loctite instead. Never had a derby screw come loose and oh so easy to remove. Anti-seize is your friend!
 
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lp
I started out worked in a shop in my early days changing tires. Big fun.


You can use grease but about half would be dry as a bone 5 years later (garage queens) and I'd have to bust out a mallet and smash the **** out of it and then change bearings... Good times.

Just use anti-seize. It's thicker and made for the job and available every where.
You must have worked in a real big shop. Places I worked everyone did tires. The lot guy might get the some of the smaller bikes, ATVs and drop offs but the mechs usually did the tires on bikes that needed other work.

Not seen to many garage queens but I really don't see how an garage queen can have issues from sitting.. Maybe not enough or some really cheap grease?

Well I spent the first half of my MC mechanic working on Oahu.. Everything there gets wet and rusty, No issues with axles using a good grease..

Heck, about a year ago I when to change the swingarm bearings on my EGC, pivot axle had been greased about 4-5 years before. It slid right out..

If you look at the application web site You'l see the primary ingredient is a high quality grease. It's main function is to act as antiseize up to 400F.


https://www.impomag.com/article/2013...lue-anti-seize

Choosing Your Anti-Seize

Anti-seize formulations consist of two stages of lubrication. High quality grease serves as a base lubricant up to 400 degrees F, and lubricating solids suspended in the grease serve up to 2,400 degrees F. When the temperatures of the joint exceed 400 degrees F, the grease dissipates and the remaining lubricating solids, which have now softened, plate the surfaces.
Right there is says grease is good to 400F (though I'd use 250F if by itself. ) If concerned use a moly grease..

The only real problem I have with using the stuff is that it's messy. I do use it on exhaust flange nuts, compression releases, spark-plugs and 02 sensers. Heck back in the leaded fuel / points ignition days I used motor oil on the plugs. Antisleeze wasn't needed because the plug didn't last long enough to evaporate the oil.
 
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