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Bolt up the OEM exhaust back onto the bike and tell the dealership you hear something rattling by the back cylinder...
Seriously, you've got QUITE an uphill battle with this one. Lugging your bike around to have it fixed is a bitch. The last time I repaired that exact issue the head was in a vice and I drilled the old stud out large enough to tap a 1/2"x13 aluminum bolt JB welded in place and cut flush with the head casting, then retapped for a new stud. All EZ-outs can't handle the torque needed to remove that stud. The stud actually uses an interference thread, which is very tight all the way down. It's not a normal 5/16"x18 thread.
Last edited by Mattbastard; Jan 2, 2018 at 06:58 PM.
I have never had an issue with an ez out. They have always worked great for me. Every time I heard of someone having a hard time with them is because they didn't use the right drill bit or they didn' drill the hole deep enough so only the tip was grabbing the part being extracted
I have never had an issue with an ez out. They have always worked great for me. Every time I heard of someone having a hard time with them is because they didn't use the right drill bit or they didn' drill the hole deep enough so only the tip was grabbing the part being extracted
I have.. Used to work as an MC mech.. The problem with the tapered EZ outs is that when the are driven in they expand the end of the broken stud/bolt. The rigid extractor places an even load on broken part for a longer distance and does not swell the end. For sure drilling all the way through helps to release tension on the stuck part in either case.
I have never had an issue with an ez out. They have always worked great for me. Every time I heard of someone having a hard time with them is because they didn't use the right drill bit or they didn' drill the hole deep enough so only the tip was grabbing the part being extracted
The last time I removed exhaust studs I ended up having to double-nut them tighter than hell and put a shitload of torque on it just to get them to spin backwards. For the hell of it, I used a bent-bar style torque wrench to see what torque was on the 5/16" bolt. It didn't spin until over 80 ft-lbs. You telling me a pissy little EZ-out will work at that torque?
There's a reason Jim's makes a jig for drilling out exhaust studs.
I have.. Used to work as an MC mech.. The problem with the tapered EZ outs is that when the are driven in they expand the end of the broken stud/bolt. The rigid extractor places an even load on broken part for a longer distance and does not swell the end. For sure drilling all the way through helps to release tension on the stuck part in either case.
when the are driven in they expand the end of the broken stud/bolt ... yep, they can act like a wedge!
Best advice above and like stated, easy outs are brittle and extremely hard. If you break the easy out, you have bigger problems.
Like suggested in previous post, you may want to take to an independent shop to avoid warranty issues.
Thanks Robbie, I think thats best option. Any idea what the draw back or consequences would be having it fixed from the dealer it was bought at? Would you just have to pay the bill upfront for the repair, or is your warrenty voided from that date on? Removing my 4 year warrenty...? I am unclear on all the rules with warrenty. Thanks
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