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that sounds like a loose plug or something, you didnt remove those plugs did you?
After investigating I dont think that has anything with the engine tick. The plug wasn't loose and I didn't see anything going on in the wire. Plugging it back in I still have more play than normal up there. Ordered new plugs and wires.
Many have suggested an adjustment..but im not sure what that entails. I'd be curious what adjustment to make. Because i turned them the 3.5 recommended. The only thing would be if the engine wasn't 100% TDC or of the lifter plungers weren't to the top. Or, 3.5 is just not where I need to be. Would i.....
do another flat or 2 on all of them?
take a flat or 2 away?
Or pull them all and just redo the process.
Most lifters run about .200” total lash, with midpoint @ .100”. You can calculate movement by thread pitch without referring to instructions, but I can’t recall how. Some on the forum have done this; type in a search.
Lossen them up and ajust again best to start from point A no need to remove anything on the bike to do that, use a straw in your spark plug hole to fell the piston move for top dead center and just ajust the cylinder in front or behind it then repeat the other side
. When adjusting the push rods, make sure you wait about 30 min between each rod adjustment so that each lifter can bleed down properly. This is very important. otherwise your adjustment will be off.
FWIW....
Waiting for the lifter to bleed down is not for the pushrod adjustment.... the lifter bleeds down after the pushrod adjustment is made....
You want the lifter to bleed down before you rotate the engine. This alleviates any chance of the piston hitting a valve on the freshly adjusted lifter...
You can tell when the lifter has bled down, when you are able spin the pushrod in the lifter cup with your fingers fairly easily... Then it's safe to rotate the engine...
Last edited by hattitude; Dec 27, 2020 at 03:02 PM.
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