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Actually some bikes are calibrated to hold idle speed up until the bike has come to a complete stop, then the idle drops to 950-1050 rpm.
Other than that, if the tune is far off enough around the idle area it will create a “hunting” condition where the engine is lean at one cell but below that cell (less rpm) it’s ok the engine will accelerate to above Target rpm which the ECM then reacts by lowering the rpms but then it’s too lean so it dips below target rpm only to be fed enough fuel to accelerate the engine up but too far so the whole hunting condition repeats.
Hope this help,
Bob
Your clutch switch could be hanging up at times and causing the idle fluctuation. Some have reported idle issues and some have actually had stalling. Replacing the clutch switch (switch pack) resolved those issues. It could be a possibility in your case.
Actually some bikes are calibrated to hold idle speed up until the bike has come to a complete stop, then the idle drops to 950-1050 rpm.
Other than that, if the tune is far off enough around the idle area it will create a hunting condition where the engine is lean at one cell but below that cell (less rpm) its ok the engine will accelerate to above Target rpm which the ECM then reacts by lowering the rpms but then its too lean so it dips below target rpm only to be fed enough fuel to accelerate the engine up but too far so the whole hunting condition repeats.
Hope this help,
Bob
Thanks Bob,
Its clearly a factory setting, arguably a faulty one of if not all bikes of this model/year run the same way, but its entirely pointless and intrusive and ruins the ride, so Im hoping it can be re-calibrated to run like any normal bike, where the rider actually gets to decide on the revs required in traffic.
Can it be reset on the 2018 M* Breakout 114?
Youd like to think my nearest main dealer would know the answer and have a solution, but they clearly dont know how to fix it, so Ive spent money on an FP3 that was supposed to fix the issue but hasnt.
Im genuinely getting to the point where after spending Ł5k on customising and accessorising it, that I might sell it out of sheer frustration and a genuine dislike for the ride ..
Thanks Bob,
Its clearly a factory setting, arguably a faulty one of if not all bikes of this model/year run the same way, but its entirely pointless and intrusive and ruins the ride, so Im hoping it can be re-calibrated to run like any normal bike, where the rider actually gets to decide on the revs required in traffic.
Can it be reset on the 2018 M* Breakout 114?
Youd like to think my nearest main dealer would know the answer and have a solution, but they clearly dont know how to fix it, so Ive spent money on an FP3 that was supposed to fix the issue but hasnt.
Im genuinely getting to the point where after spending Ł5k on customising and accessorising it, that I might sell it out of sheer frustration and a genuine dislike for the ride ..
Proper diagnosis by a qualified HD EFI technician and probably a bit of tuning for required fuel and timing changes in the calibration for the exhaust you have and youll be a happy camper for sure!
Bob
Proper diagnosis by a qualified HD EFI technician and probably a bit of tuning for required fuel and timing changes in the calibration for the exhaust you have and youll be a happy camper for sure!
Bob
Thanks Bob,
To be fair, the qualified HD EFI Tech is the route I went down initially, but after several unsuccessful trips to my nearest main dealer, the problem still persists, and surprisingly they seemed blissfully unaware that this is a known problem ..
My 18 Heritage 114 does it and I just quit thinking about it. At first it bugged the crap out of me, now I hardly notice it. I have V&H slip ons and a PV tuner with a map from Fuel Moto. Jamie tried a couple different modified maps to fix it, but no luck. The bike runs awesome so I just got used to it, doesn't bother me at all now.
I have a 2019 sport glide and my first bike had this problem bad and the dealer had a master tech from Milwaukee come look at it. Problem was not etms or clutch switch. The dealer swapped out the bike and at first the second bike seemed ok but it slowly developed the problem and now it's worst. It's very annoying and the only way to keep it at bay is to keep the clutch in all the way even navigating in parking lots or it's going to rev up. It appears only some bikes have the issue.
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